Car Won't Start

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ABodyBetty

ABodyBetty

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Just put a new radiator in my 67 Dart. Had alternator and horn circuit unplugged. We also just put in new spark plugs, all wires were marked. It wouldn't start, fusable link blown. Put in new 30 amp fuse, now we have headlights and tries to start. It only cranks for a second, soon as engine turns over and you give it gas it dies. Over and over and over and over. Calling tow truck. Somebody please help before my hubby fire bombs my car.
:angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7:
 
Well don't know how long you have owned a old Mopar but if you flood it sometimes you have to let it sit along while.I assume a soon as it starts is dies even before you can get it in gear?
Jim
 
Sounds flooded.Once it starts give it gas and keep it running.If it dies start it again without giving it any gas once it starts give it gas and keep it running.If this does not work let it sit a hour or so and then try and start it.
Jim
 
Every time you push the throttle another shot of fuel went in via the accelerater pump. If you want to try a blow a flood out of it, hold the pedal on the floor and the key in start. It will run and clear out eventually.
 
We understand how to blow out a flooded carb with full throttle. This isn't the problem. Brand new EB1406 ran good before repairs. Towed home and pulled number 1 spark plug and is dry and carbonated. With key on and remote starter switch attached at starter relay, turn engine over with spark pug laying on exhaust manifold not showing any spark when engine is cranking.

May have inadvertently applied power when alternator and horn circuit was disconnected. That is when we realized the 30 amp fusable link was blown. All we had was a 20 took it for a drive made it a mile it died fusable link blown again. Got 30 amp fuses and installed them. This is where we are now.

Question??
Could we have blown the coil when the power was applied with the alternator disconnected? Should I put this on the electrical forum?
 
I stole this from another webpage on how to check a coil. Hope it helps. This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective.
 
If you have a bad ballast resistor it will start but not run.It will die as SOON as you let go of the key!!!!The ballast resistor is on the fire wall and probably between the wiper motor and the master cylinder.It is white and should have two plugs connected to it.A quick check is to unplug each plug and put a jumper between the two.Or you can take of the resistor and see if the back side looks burnt.If it dies as SOON as you let of the key this is more than likely the problem.If it runs after you let off the key this is not the problem.

Thanks,Jim
 
Sounds like you have ( or had )a short somewhere that caused the link to blow. Maybe a wire got nicked when you put in the radiator. Check to make sure you have 12 volts to the coil too. Good Luck
 
68383GTS said:
If you have a bad ballast resistor it will start but not run.It will die as SOON as you let go of the key!!!!The ballast resistor is on the fire wall and probably between the wiper motor and the master cylinder.It is white and should have two plugs connected to it.A quick check is to unplug each plug and put a jumper between the two.Or you can take of the resistor and see if the back side looks burnt.If it dies as SOON as you let of the key this is more than likely the problem.If it runs after you let off the key this is not the problem.

Thanks,Jim
Click to expand...



Should cure the problem!
 
Hmmmmm,pull distributor and replace the plastic gear on it (slant six)just a wild guess............:cheers:
ABodyBetty said:
Just put a new radiator in my 67 Dart. Had alternator and horn circuit unplugged. We also just put in new spark plugs, all wires were marked. It wouldn't start, fusable link blown. Put in new 30 amp fuse, now we have headlights and tries to start. It only cranks for a second, soon as engine turns over and you give it gas it dies. Over and over and over and over. Calling tow truck. Somebody please help before my hubby fire bombs my car.
:angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7::angry7:
Click to expand...
 
We replaced ballast resistor this morning and started and ran fine untill electrical systems started failing one after another!
If you can help us please go to the post in electrical section titled Help! Need electrical guru! Thanks again Guys!!!
 
define " electrical systems started failing one after another " sounds like a voltage excess or voltage deficiency { maybe OVERCHARGING}
 
yellow68runner said:
define " electrical systems started failing one after another " sounds like a voltage excess or voltage deficiency { maybe OVERCHARGING}
Click to expand...
Have started another thread in electrical section titled "Help need electrical guru" all specifics are gone throught there.
Yellow68runner, if you have a min. could you please go over and read that thread?
 
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