Car won't stay on

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dustya_383

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Hey guys have a little problem went to lunch came back out to go to work and car would not stay on thought it was fuel or something but seems like ignition is popping back and and Turing entire car off why is this happening , I had to hold the ignition in the on position to keep car at idle when I let go car and radio gauges all go off any clues. Thanks
 
ballast resistor... when you crank it uses another curcuit and bypasses the resistor... when you release the key it swaps back to the resistor... by-pass it to comfirm...
 
So I replaced the ballast with one from my other duster and nothing still having the same problem? I'm guessing ignition switch possibly?? I have another steering column with a good switch in it but don't really have the tools at home to perform this all my tools are @ work Fu!!&@ dude
 
well there should be a blue and white wire running to the ballast... see if it had 12V with the key on, unplug it from the ballast first...
 
You are all wrong! It's the ballast resistor. Wait ... damn it, I'm too late. It could very well be in the ignition switch or even the lock cylinder. I can't imagine an ignition switch wearing out in just 38 years, but they don't make things like they used to. It sounds like the ignition switch or the rod are broken or detached. Gotta go in for exploratory surgery to find out.
 
Ok only thing is when I hold the ignition on ,the motor will run but nothing else will work no radio, no electric choke , only lights well because those are runnin off the battery and alt. I'm no good with electric but wanna go with my gut and say its the ignition switch I'll connect my old column and see what happens
 
Ok so I tried the othe column and same thing so guess it has to be the ballast right? No fuses or any other possible things ?
 
So you have a different column and a different ballast resistor that fixed nothing? Weird. I'd have to go with a brand new ballast instead of a possibly suspect one off another old car. If that doesn't do it, you are into checking the wiring to the resistor most likely.
 
Did you check voltage at the igntion system? Did you check the bulkhead connector?

There are THREE important separate wires associated with the IGN switch and ignition

1 Dark blue, hot ONLY in "run" comes from the IGN switch, feeds power to the dash warning (oil/ brake) lamps and the gauges Also goes through the bulkhead connector to the alternator field (blue), the regulator "I" terminal, AND the "key side" of the ballast resistor.

Turn the key to "run" engine off, and check voltage at the alternator BLUE field connector, or pull off the regulator connector and check there. Should have VERY close to battery voltage.

2 The yellow "start" wire, hot ONLY in "crank" comes from the IGN switch, goes through the bulkhead connector, and ONLY to one of the push-on terminals of the start relay

3 The brown "ballast bypass" is SEPARATE from above, is also hot ONLY in "crank," comes from the IGN switch, goes through the ballast, and connects to the coil + side of the ballast

THAT BROWN is what keeps the car running if you hold the key over towards start, if the DARK BLUE circuit is faulty.

Get under the column, find the IGN switch connector, and see if you have power there in "run" on the blue. See if the gauges, the warning lights work. Check the alternator BLUE field connection.

IF the gauges / warning lights seem normal, if the connector under the column from the switch seems normal, it is probably the bulkhead connector.
 
Hey guys so I got a chance yesterday to take a look at the duster and found my problem , it wasn't the ballast resistor , I had a loose connection in wiring harness , steering column connectors are so brittle and crack but fixed problem and I'm all good now thanks for the help to all
 
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