Carb help * the famous debate and 2x different cars

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Stock 5.9 magnum=3310 vac sec 750
380 crate magnum =750 double pumper

Done and done.
This^^^

Or fix the 4777. There's really nothing to wear on it. So if its 'shot' in that its not running right but it used to, then its something simple; Dirt in passageway, leak from accelerator pump, umbrella tytpe check valve distorted from fuel component, etc. Take one apart and you'll see there is nothing to it. Don't touch the idle 'speed screw' and the only tuning you'll have to do is the idle mix screws. Get Ulrich's 4150 book or Ulrich and Fisher's Holley Carb book if you want to know the basics of how they work and the various parts.
 
NewbombTurk,

You are in no position to criticise anybody else's carb tuning skills. In one of your earlier alter ego's, you didn't know how an air bleed works.....
 
NewbombTurk,

You are in no position to criticise anybody else's carb tuning skills. In one of your earlier alter ego's, you didn't know how an air bleed works.....
Place an “ @ “ symbol in front of the screen name to game his attention. Like so; @Newbomb Turk
 
NewbombTurk,

You are in no position to criticise anybody else's carb tuning skills. In one of your earlier alter ego's, you didn't know how an air bleed works.....
giphy-3.gif
 
NewbombTurk,

You are in no position to criticise anybody else's carb tuning skills. In one of your earlier alter ego's, you didn't know how an air bleed works.....


And yet, every time I fix a carb some hero guru like you has screwed up I have to take MAB out of it to get it on the booster quicker.

And as odd as it may sound to you, the A/F sensors prove it out, every time.

And as odd as it may sound to you, I have the Obert and Taylor books plus NACA 49 to back you what I know and evidently you don't.

Again, stop with bad advice.
 
Place an “ @ “ symbol in front of the screen name to game his attention. Like so; @Newbomb Turk

I'll see it without that. The sad thing is Bewy still thinks a bigger MAB delays the start up of the booster. It's sad really that he keeps posting bullshit. The good news is he ain't afraid to be wrong and quadruple down on it.
 
I'll see it without that. The sad thing is Bewy still thinks a bigger MAB delays the start up of the booster. It's sad really that he keeps posting bullshit. The good news is he ain't afraid to be wrong and quadruple down on it.

I figured you probably would, but just incase…

Not looking to start any crap by doing what I did. Just trying to be of help and I know your fully capable.
 
NB Turk,
I don't give advice. My BS meter is starting to peg the needle in the red zone with all your BS. Your comments further show how little you really know. Air bleed action is so fast & transient that A/F sensors are far too slow to pick it & only react after the fact.
Below is from your favourite Holley book [ & it is a good book, excellent ].
I will print the first two lines:
'' The strong signal from the discharge nozzle is bled off or reduced by the main air bleed so there is less effective pressure difference to cause fuel flow. The mixture will become leaner as the size of the air bleed is increased."
Hopefully this this time you will 'get it'.

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Well, back to the OP's question. Both of the cars are primarily street driven, correct? If I were you I'd stick the 750 Eddie on the crate 360 and drive it for a while, see what it does for the type of driving that you do - you already have it, you might be surprised. Don't screw around with it. Take it out of the box and put it on the car, do the minor adjustments like idle mixture and idle speeds, get the kick down right and drive it. The back barrels on this AFB style carb operate at engine demand kind of like vacuum secondaries. It's possible that the mechanical secondaries on you Holley weren't doing you a favor except at WOT, and you will find the AFB a snappier carb driving around and at part throttle. If it doesn't work out, stick it on the barge and see how it does there.

I've heard to whining about Edelbrock AFBs , but just in my own experience, I have a 600 on my warmed over 318, and 2 500s on the crossram on my 340 and they have been trouble free over many years (15-20) and many, many miles. They required very little out of the box if you're not into extensive carb tuning (except for balancing the dual quads) :lol:
 


Go read the Taylor book. Or Obert. At low air speeds the MAB acts like an emulsion jet.

A bigger MAB will start the boosters sooner and make the fuel curve leaner with RPM.

A smaller MAB will start the boosters start later and make the fuel curve richer with RPM.

Those are the facts. The other fact is you refuse to learn. You don't test anything. You post quotes out of books that are clearly wrong.

Stop with bad advice. And you're BS meter is as garbage as your advice is.
 
Go read the Taylor book. Or Obert. At low air speeds the MAB acts like an emulsion jet.

A bigger MAB will start the boosters sooner and make the fuel curve leaner with RPM.

A smaller MAB will start the boosters start later and make the fuel curve richer with RPM.

Those are the facts. The other fact is you refuse to learn. You don't test anything. You post quotes out of books that are clearly wrong.

Stop with bad advice. And you're BS meter is as garbage as your advice is.
I always go back to Tuners writings, below is a quoted paragraph from speedtalk where he explains it brilliantly, responding to the question, “How does the MAB effect booster signal?”


“Gentlemen,

As always, circumstances alter cases.

For the purpose of a thought experiment look at the carburetor from the often referred to opposite point of view, the venturi doesn’t draw the fuel, the atmospheric pressure pushes it. Instead of thinking of the booster signal as drawing against a resistance or restriction of the fuel and air entering it, consider it in the sense that air pressure is pushing fuel and air through the circuits against the resistance forces of friction and gravity.

As an actual experiment to illustrate how increasing bleed air can increase the liquid fuel flow, put a straw in a longneck bottle with water in it and blow. Obviously, the air bubbles displace liquid and push the water up the neck of the bottle and out the top if you blow hard enough. The atmospheric pressure is pushing air into the bleed system and main well just like your breath is pushing air into the liquid in the bottle. Remember, atmospheric pressure is pushing both fuel and air into the main well and toward the nozzle in the venturi.

If you use a carbonated beverage the air entering the liquid causes a disturbance which causes the CO2 to flash into vapor bubbles in the liquid which further drives the liquid up the bottle neck and illustrates how the vapor pressure of the more volatile components in fuel can affect the liquid flow. Also obvious is how larger amounts of bleed air or vapor can reduce the liquid fuel delivery by occupying a corresponding larger portion of the flow path.

Obviously, the effect of increasing liquid flow is most significant in the range of very low venturi pressure difference (vacuum or signal, if you wish) from atmospheric, which is at and closely above the beginning of flow from the main in most common single 4bbl applications we deal with. A lot of venturi area, such as with multiple carbs or very large carbs on small engines, may operate in such a low pressure differential at maximum engine speed the phenomenon of bleed air increasing fuel flow can be in effect in all operating conditions. Most usually, in my experience with the common Holley-like single 4bbl applications, bleed air richens the low power range at and just above tip-in and leans the high power range closer to full throttle.

Confusion enters the conversation when the definition of operating range isn’t made clear. Sometimes, the bleed effect is considered in reference to WOT only, but from the bottom to the top of an RPM range. Other times, the bleed effect is discussed in the context of percentage of load or throttle position less than full throttle. The two different circumstances can appear to have conflicting requirements in the bleed configuration. In my view, that seems to be the result of working out the bleed arrangement using a dyno and only considering WOT in a narrow RPM range near maximum power. Obviously, the bleeds effects are significant from curb idle to WOT and maximum engine speed.

The bottom line is, you gotta dink with all the little holes until you like how it runs, no matter what size they end up. If the engine likes it, so be it.

As always, circumstances alter cases, but things are more like they are now than they ever have been.
:wink:
 
Can't you guys have your (to most here) esoteric engineering battles some place else, perhaps an exchange of PMs. This really isn't helping the OP with his very straightforward request for advice. You have really hijacked the space.
 
Can't you guys have your (to most here) esoteric engineering battles some place else, perhaps an exchange of PMs. This really isn't helping the OP with his very straightforward request for advice. You have really hijacked the space.
It's up to the OP's to guide the direction of their own thread if they don't like the direction they can say so, pretty sure the original question has been answered a few times.
 
It's up to the OP's to guide the direction of their own thread if he don't like the direction he can say so, pretty sure the original question has been answered a few times.
We should really discuss the responsibility of a OP to keep his thread on track vs. mods forcing it.. What would the acceptable percentage of "Slightly" off topic posts be in relationship to perfect on top posts be? 85? i mean.. if we go 100% we lose any jokes and pretty much the life of the forum.... If the OP asks though i'm sure everyone would stop and concentrate on only his issue.. i posted my reply.. get a street demon and have a lovely life.. :)
 
We should really discuss the responsibility of a OP to keep his thread on track vs. mods forcing it.. What would the acceptable percentage of "Slightly" off topic posts be in relationship to perfect on top posts be? 85? i mean.. if we go 100% we lose any jokes and pretty much the life of the forum.... If the OP asks though i'm sure everyone would stop and concentrate on only his issue.. i posted my reply.. get a street demon and have a lovely life.. :)
Moderator's police behavior, most threads the OP ask a question then bows out, the thread is only gonna stay on topic for so long, if the OP don't have any follow up questions and or redirect the thread to me it open season for the thread to go wherever, plus multiple discussions can be had at once.
 
Moderator's police behavior, most threads the OP ask a question then bows out, the thread is only gonna stay on topic for so long, if the OP don't have any follow up questions and or redirect the thread to me it open season for the thread to go wherever, plus multiple discussions can be had at once.
Exactly... and the OP has plenty of answers in the thread and can reply for clarifications if needed... as long as no one is fighting... alls cool :)
 
The OP has little to no control on how the thread develops or how it meanders because no one will pay attention to the OP and continue on with there battle of being right.
 
The OP has little to no control on how the thread develops or how it meanders because no one will pay attention to the OP and continue on with there battle of being right.
I think you are wrong.... and i am right...
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When I have a thread I have no problem directing it, I just keep talking to the people answering my question, but I don't overly care if people have side discussion like this one were having here :)
 
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