Carb install questions.

[StickweldinSteve]

Does this linkage look right to y’all? I was told the linkage on my old Holley didn’t look quite right ( I bought it that way)…but I copied how it was routed as closely as I could for the new carb. This is my new Edelbrock…. It does run. The slide for my transmission there… it’s not really attached, just draped on… Also should I put a spacer between the carb and my manifold? What about a fuel pressure regulator? Thanks for any advice.

 

[12many]

Not good at all. Remove the spacer as shown in the pictures, you don’t need it, and mount the carb with just a gasket for the time being, check that the throttle opens and both sides of the carbs primary/secondary linkage clears the intake and then reattach the cable and kick down linkage.

 

[Professor Fate]

No.
first, you need the Edelbrock 1481 linkage adapter for Mopar throttle linkage. Aftermarket carbs do not have correct for Mopar throttle linkage, so this is needed. it is what determines your throttle opening and correctly locates the throttle & kickdown stud.

Then you need an actual Mopar throttle stud for an automatic transmission.

Then you need to change your throttle cable bracket- either get a four barrel bracket (yours is a two barrel bracket) or modify yours- the cable clamp needs to be about an inch and a quarter farther forward, and about 1.5-2" farther out to the valve cover.
Then the kickdown link needs to be extended about 1.25".

When you're done, everything should line up nice and straight and operate smoothly.
I stole this pic from @Dana67Dart - it shows a 2 barrel, but illustrates nicely how everything attaches and lines up.

Edit: Yeah, @12many is right about that spacer, you'll never get that style kickdown linkage to work right with that spacer in there. And don't drive it until you get the kickdown linkage attached and properly adjusted- trans. damage will result, and ruin your day.

 

[StickweldinSteve]

Not good at all. Remove the spacer as shown in the pictures, you don’t need it, and mount the carb with just a gasket for the time being, check that the throttle opens and both sides of the carbs primary/secondary linkage clears the intake and then reattach the cable and kick down linkage.

Thank you for the advice I’m on call this weekend so I’ll get it settled.

 

[StickweldinSteve]

No.
first, you need the Edelbrock 1481 linkage adapter for Mopar throttle linkage. Aftermarket carbs do not have correct for Mopar throttle linkage, so this is needed. it is what determines your throttle opening and correctly locates the throttle & kickdown stud.
View attachment 1716086106
Then you need an actual Mopar throttle stud for an automatic transmission.
View attachment 1716086107
Then you need to change your throttle cable bracket- either get a four barrel bracket (yours is a two barrel bracket) or modify yours- the cable clamp needs to be about an inch and a quarter farther forward, and about 1.5-2" farther out to the valve cover.
Then the kickdown link needs to be extended about 1.25".

When you're done, everything should line up nice and straight and smoothly.
I stole this pic from @Dana67Dart - it shows a 2 barrel, but illustrates nicely how everything attaches and lines up.
View attachment 1716086116

Edit: Yeah, @12many is right about that spacer, you'll never get that style kickdown linkage to work right with that spacer in there. And don't drive it until you get the kickdown linkage attached and properly adjusted- trans. damage will result, and ruin your day.

Thanks for the super detailed response and pics. I don’t know much at all but I’m learning. I’m also quickly learning that the guy who had the car before me must not have known a lot either. Everything is Jerry rigged. Thanks for the links and info. Very helpful.

 

[66fyssh]

Learning and doing is what makes this hobby fun, interesting and rewarding.

I'm always looking for the next project to do on my car. It gets boring just driving.

 

[Bewy]

Once you get the linkages sorted, make sure you are getting WOT by pressing the pedal to the floor. The link on the sec shaft hits a protrusion on the body @ WOT.