carb issue

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angryduster

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Hi, i'm having carb issues with my /6. It starts fine cold runs great until you shut it off. It won't restart. I rebuilt the carb, same problem. It has a recent ignition module and coil and the starter drags a little. Any thoughts
 
Your turnbuckle is loose.

No, What I meant to say is: What is the year make and model of your car? Also pretty much required to know is engine displacement and what type of carb (if you know) it has on it. How about details like how long it runs great. Does it idle smooth and then you turn it off and it does not restart? How long does it sit between it running and then not restarting? What temp is the weather where you are at 50,60,70,85?

If I had to guess with no info I am going to say vaporlock, because that is so much fun to deal with.
 
Easy enough, it runs perfect until i shut it off. idles perfect, 225 1 barrel chrysler carb (i'm pretty sure it's not a holley). central florida weather so it's warm, unless it's HOT, but that never seems to effect it. any suggestions on vapor lock, i've never dealt with it
 
Have you tried tried to hold the gas pedal down a bit, when trying to start hot?

It sounds like a flooding issue. Holding the gas open with out pumping may help unload by giving more air. The root cause my be an improperly adjusted float, or leaking needle and seat. Since Chrysler does not make carbs, a picture may help.
 
Floats good as are the needle and seat (new rebuild ) must be a holley. I'll try that, thanks
 
Hate to anger you more angryduster, but you still didn't tell us the year. Carbs got much more complicated controls as the years progressed. Since you rebuilt the carb, you must have known the model# at some time. I know that Carter BBS, Holley 1920, and Holley 1945 were used on 1 bbl slants. You might have a 2 bbl "Super Six" with a Carter BBD. See why we asked for a photo? My guess with little info is that your choke isn't opening fully, so running too rich once hot. Besides dying, another way to notice is your gas bill from <10 mpg.
 
Sorry, forgot the year. it's a 1974, gets about 20 mpg. i noticed if i take off the air cleaner cover it does not have a problem. i put a new air cleaner in it but that didn't help although it probably needed one anyway. i have heard everything from water in the gas to a bad tank. it's strange the car runs so good and the problem came on suddenly. like i said if i take off the air cleaner lid the problem goes away but i don't want to drive like that and constantly lifting the hood works but isn't really a solution
 
More info sure helps. Sounds like the problem is in your (complicated) air cleaner assembly. Post a photo. You probably changed the "air filter". Most likely, your "air heater" inlet door is not functioning so you draw hot air past the manifold heater once warm, which will make the carb run rich. I recently got a 74 slant engine with that setup, plus many more components I don't understand, but probably a CA car so may differ. Long ago, a friend related a trip in a late 70's car (fairly new then) where they noticed their mileage had dropped from 20 mpg to 10 mpg. They found the air inlet door was stuck. I recall a Pinto, but most emissions were similar then and the car wasn't CA.

I don't need the emissions stuff on this spare engine (for my 64 slant), so tell me what is broken w/ photos and I will ship to you for USPS cost ($5 small box, $10 medium box). I am originally a FL boy, so happy to help a homeboy. You can test the air door diaphragm w/ a MightyVac type hand pump or try the "hold finger on vac tube" method. And don't be so angry, we can fix everything on a Mopar even better than original.
 
Thanks, do you think removing the flex pipe from the exhaust to the air cleaner will be a good test? with all the tools i own i don't have a vacuum pump
 
Sure. Or just prop the air door open with something. You can kind of test if the rubber diaphragm is sound by pushing it in or out (whichever is opposite the spring) and hold your finger over the vaccum inlet. If it holds position with you finger on, and moves otherwise, then the diaphragm must be good. Same method works to check other vaccum diaphragms - carb vacuum pull-off, brake booster, ....
 
I had a problem like his with my lawn mower I used ethnol remover in my gas and it fixed it, It started and ran great but if you shut it off long enought to get a drink it wouldnt start unless you threw water on the motor, bought a can of ethnol remover added to the gas every other tank full and fixed.
 
Make sure your choke is fully open,when the motor is warm/hot.
For test purposes,wire it open. See if that cures it.
 
hi all, well i tried everything that was suggested and some other stuff that was not. something fixed it , i'm not sure what but the problem went away. thanks everyone for your help.
 
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