Carb Problems...

[dodgemain]

Hi,
I picked up a 1968 Dart last fall. The engine starts and idles fine. But, when I shift the automatic transmission from park to drive or reverse the engine will stall. I have to keep one foot on the brake and give it gas with the other foot to keep it running. Once I start driving the car and it warms up it seems fine. Do you guys think there is something wrong with the carburetor or does it just need to be adjusted? It is a Carter 4612S carburetor. A few of my friends said I should just get rid of that Carter because there pieces of junk. Any advice like how to adjust it and what the ideal speed should be would be great. I am used to the one a two barrel carbs on my W300 Dodge trucks. This carb has more linkage then I know what to do with. Feel free to check out a few pictures of the car at the link below. Thanks in advance for the help.
Chris

http://imageevent.com/dodgemain/1968dodgedart

 

[RedFish]

Even if the choke pull off and everything else about the carb is perfect you'll never get "crank and go" performance like fuel injection provides.
I agree that 4 bucks a gallon hurts but warm up period is nature of the beast when carborated.

 

[62v200]

Let it warm up, check the timing and adjust the carb & idle speed for now and see if that does it, then once you decide what you are gonna do with it, make the decision to pull the carb or not. Idle speed between 800 and 1000 RPM is a good ballpark to start in.

 

[rumblefish360]

Check for vacuum leaks at the base of the carb and a possible extra lean condition. That upper center screw is an air bleed screw. Double check the measurements of all the carbs parts.

 

[Bill Crowell]

When it dies, does it tend to flood and be hard to re-start? If so, it is the choke pull-off. It has to be adjusted correctly for good driveability during warmup. Also, the exhaust manifold heat control valve must be working freely and its spring must be in good shape.

 

[dodge freak]

Even if the choke pull off and everything else about the carb is perfect you'll never get "crank and go" performance like fuel injection provides.
I agree that 4 bucks a gallon hurts but warm up period is nature of the beast when carborated.

What ? I have a Demon race 650 dp with no choke and stock jetting, my "warm up" is 20-30 seconds at 2500 rpms, then its good to go. Sure it idles rough in gear while backing out out the driveway but it doesn't stall.

A few things I have learned over the many years I had carb cars. 1 the intake needs a prefect seal, need to use brake cleaner to clean the gasket surface and then use a sealer like Indian Head-no RTV around the ports.

2nd, a strong spark box helps out big time. When I upgraded my MSD 6 to a MSD 7al box, the first thing I notice was a stronger idle in gear when the motor was cold.

3rd, on Holleys and Demon carb, the idle feeds in the metering blocks-IFR's some times need to be opened up, my are at .034-stock was .029.

My T.C. is stock-a high stall converter is a big help but hurts mileage and with my 3.91 gears, the motor seems to take off pretty well.

I am also using NGK racing plugs-non resistor-cost $2.50 a piece at Summit, and your plug wires and dist cap need to be the best or close to it.

But-at least with a Holley type carb, I see no need for a choke or more than a 1 min. warm up-1 min is in winter.

My intake I left the exhaust heat open, it still doesn't run just prefect for 3-5 mins, thats why the intake I leave the exhaust heat open. Tried it closed, it takes 15 mins to warm up and the plugs are still dirty. Then the next morning the dirty plugs making warm up even more of a bear.

I would not close the exhaust heat up unless it was a race motor only-where I clean the plugs all the time and never run the motor when its cold outside.