Carb swap - Electric Choke Wiring

[jarvitron]

OK, so I have a 318 with a Carter up top, and the really elaborate electronic choke control well setup. Due to a choke-shaft related mishap while trying to get at the idle tubes so maybe it'd idle right - sigh - the Carter is getting retired early, and my Road Demon Jr. is going onto the Crosswinds manifold earlier than expected. I'm going to order the Bouchillon kickdown and throttle linkage setup and then figure out what kind of throttle cable I need.

Anybody done a Lokar throttle cable with a Bouchillon kickdown? I don't see anything in my search results for that combo. I can't imagine why I couldn't use the bouchillon throttle assembly, grind off some tabs on the "clamp" to make it sit flat (or just ditch it altogether, not sure how much the bouchillon depends on it to keep the kickdown in place), then drill/grind a piece of angle to bolt to the top with an appropriate sized hole for the lokar cable. Am I crazy? Should I just buy the whole Lokar deal and get in touch with bracketmaking below-the-car?

Second question, re: Elaborate electronic choke setups. When I put on the 4bbl, what wire am I going to hook to? The stock setup (pictured below) appears to have some kind of ballast resistor (again? How many of these things do we need) setup. Do I need to just ditch this wiring altogether and find a switched 12v to tap into, or extend from the harness and delete the ballast? Keep the ballast and hook the choke to that?

 

[67Dart273]

The condenser (circular object) is a radio suppression cap and goes to the + sided of the coil. Depending on some special ignition (Mallory, MSD) you may not want it on there

The rectangular device was in fact a limiting device for the original factory electric choke. There should be already a switched ignition supply that originally connected to it. Your "IGN run" wire comes from the IGN switch, out the bulkhead, and normally Y's off to supply the IGNITION (ballast), the REGULATOR "I" terminal, the ALTERNATOR field connection (70/ later) and the electric choke.

The wire hooked to it might just be ignition, you need to check it

 

[jarvitron]

The wire hooked to it right now is hooked to the choke, the other side goes back into the harness (unhooked in this pic). I'll make sure it's giving me 12v running and just go from that. And yeah, the condensor is unhooked (and on the passenger floor right now, just like the entire rest of the front and top of the motor). I'm eventually going to do an HEI swap, I found some Chibby truck coils pretty cheap at the pick a part with nice brackets which I'll mount to the firewall with some rivnuts, but since I'm having to do a carb swap I wanna do it one step at a time instead of quadrupling my frustration, hence the label and the mark in my book "Condensor to coil pos + Wire 3". Also I haven't quite figured out a module mounting/heatsink solution yet. I have a nice zalman flower video cooler which might give it the right fangle, but that is in the future.

Thanks for the reply! Still curious if anybody has used a lokar cable with a bouchillon kickdown, it may be worth it to me just to toftt and try it, I'll definitely post some pics if I go this route.

 

[67Dart273]

You really don't need much special for a heat sink. the mount surface must be FLAT, and you must break/ file off the little nubbin that originally located the module in the GM mount, or else drill a clearance hole for it

On my 67, someone had converted the car to Mopar ECU and mounted the ECU over under the wiper motor, there's a flat place there on the pass. side of the dist. Since there were already a couple of holes there, used one of them, and drilled another for the GM module.

I first "discovered" them while Googleing how to hook up the breakerless dist. in my 20R powered Oliver crawler, and very soon got hits on the HEI conversion. It worked so well on the tractor, that I put one on the Dart.

Since that is what you are doing, you could ALSO simply run a wire from the coil + (which will be switched 12V with HEI) right over to the choke.

Do yourself a favor when you get things hooked up, and check for HARNESS VOLTAGE DROP

You will be checking the drop from the battery, through the bulkhead, through the ammeter circuit, the igntiion switch and connector, and back out the bulkhead to the IGN run buss

With everything hooked up "normal," turn the key to "run" with engine off. Put one meter probe on the IGN run buss, such as the blue field wire on the alternator, or up at the junction where you removed the ballast. Stick the other proble on battery POS post. With the meter on low DC volts, you are looking for a very low reading, the lower the better

If the reading is more than .2V (two tenths of a volt) this indicates some drop in the harness. ESPECIALLY if this drop is .3 or higher, you need to run down where it is

(My 67 originally had ONE VOLT drop!!)

Your top suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch and it's connector, and the ammeter circuit.

Read the MAD article for a good idea of what goes on:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

which came from here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/