Carbed Magnum parts list?

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Shainesboostin

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Keep reading up on magnum swaps as im about to start my first mopar build. Wanna stay smallblock, and originally just wanted to go LA 360, but alot say go MAGNUM, but I wanna STAY CARBERATED. Is it worth doing if I stay with a carb? Just dont wanna do the EFI thing. I see things about using LA heads, but something needs drilled? Yada yada. I know the info is out there, but would love to chat here back and forth as I am a newb.
 
First, welcome to FABO. Get ready for a lot of opinions.
First check out magnumswap.com, lots of info on oil pan, belts, manifolds etc.
The deal with magnum is, assuming you dont want OD trans, there are two ways to do it.
First is with magnum heads and a "magnum" carb manifold. Second way is with aftermarket magnum heads that are "LA" intake pattern so you can use your LA RPM air gap, Holley etc...
The magnum pattern intake in more expensive and if you already have LA intake you might consider a magnum LA head. The EQ heads are available in both magnum and LA intake pattern. They offer a substantial HP gain over stock heads.
The magnum has so many benefits over LA, 1.6 ratio pedestal rockers, roller cam, closed chamber heads, hypereutectic pistons w molly rings and of course the fact you can pick up a good runner for under $500 that will literally make 450 hp with EQ heads and a cam. We have lots of info on our site too, FAQ section and some write ups and links that help. We also have all the parts you will need to do swap with either carb or FI. magnummopar. or pm for more info. Evan
 
Had my heads redrilled for $80. You could pull the underhood wiring through the ignition, distributor, T-quad/Q-jet, intake, ecm, and ballast from an '80s 360 truck. Probably would have to end somewhere just South of $500 if you started with a V8 trans.
 
This photo is a LA to 5.9 swap in a '79 Magnum.
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My 5.9 Magnum LA swap used;

Edelbrocks RPM intake, 650 Thunder & electric fuel Pump for carb, local auto parts store fuel filter, Electronic distributor, (ignition to fire it up if your car is to equipped to do so, add cool and ignition, MSD or Chrysler box) Hooker headers.

If your car had a LA in it to start, use the OE motor mounts.

I deleated (took off) the A/C pump and used a shorter serpentine belt. I do not remember how many inches it was BUt it should be easy to look up at any auto parts store since it was an option not to have A/C. I used a oil relocation kit for my own self.
 
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Using upgraded heads and etc....
As you get to them, Magnumopar gave good advice. The EQ heads offer an excellent bang for the buck for a street driven car.
 
Good posts above.
Absolutely start with www.magnumswap.com . That site has nearly everything you'll need to know and it's hard to imagine that you'll walk away not wanting a Magnum motor. They're easier to come by than comparable LA motors and have a lot of benefits...not the least of which are the updated gasket designs that drastically reduce leaks.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the flex plate issue. If you have an automatic, you'll need to swap to a Magnum style flex plate with external balancing. It's not expensive...but really important. ;)

I have ~500 miles on my 5.9 Magnum swap now...so far, so good! I haven't had much tuning time but the thing starts right up and drives every time, no leaks, no trouble. No regrets here!!
 
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Using upgraded heads and etc....
As you get to them, Magnumopar gave good advice. The EQ heads offer an excellent bang for the buck for a street driven car.

I'm looking into EQ heads for a "next year" kinda thing...as the stock Magnum 5.9L (while being pretty low compression) still feels like a big upgrade over the old 318.

Perhaps this isn't the place to ask but is there a "tried and true" cam that people like to run with the 62cc EQs? What kind of numbers do they put down?
 
I just purchased a 5.9 Magnum just because the price was right and have no plans for it in the near future but looking real hard at getting it ready for future use and since I hate wires in the engine bay considering the possibility of using the Fitech or Holley Sniper EFI
DSCF0470.jpg
 
I'm looking into EQ heads for a "next year" kinda thing...as the stock Magnum 5.9L (while being pretty low compression) still feels like a big upgrade over the old 318.

Perhaps this isn't the place to ask but is there a "tried and true" cam that people like to run with the 62cc EQs? What kind of numbers do they put down?
We have several cams, a nice street cam that works well with stock short block and EQ's is 217*@.050 .544 lift 110 LSA for carb and 112-114 for factory FI. Should get you in the ball park of 375-400 hp
 
Uea, I was mainly confused on the head situation. Wanted to make sure I'd buy the correct heads.
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the flex plate issue. If you have an automatic, you'll need to swap to a Magnum style flex plate with external balancing. It's not expensive...but really important. ;)
A 5.9 should come with the correct one but if not they are cheap.
Uea, I was mainly confused on the head situation. Wanted to make sure I'd buy the correct heads.
Just decide if you want to use your old intake or get a new one, then if you go new, decide Magnum or LA bolt pattern. Magnum intake bolt holes are vertical and LA match angle of head. When you are ready, we have the best prices on EQ's either stock or upgraded with better valves and springs for larger cam. You can run up to .475" lift with stock springs and up to .550" lift with our 120# stage II spring kit. We use better valves than the other guys, ours are fully polished while theirs are not. We also sell them cheaper than everybody as well and our prices on assembled heads include free 48 state delivery to your door! We also stock CrMo pushrods for $99, have roller rocker/stud/push rod kits from $249 etc. We offer great discounts to our fellow FABO friends, typically 10% on most items. Our heads are already discounted but Tanks Inc, our fuel line kits and valve train parts all get discounted. Find us on the web at magnummopar. or pm for phone #. Evan
 
We have several cams, a nice street cam that works well with stock short block and EQ's is 217*@.050 .544 lift 110 LSA for carb and 112-114 for factory FI. Should get you in the ball park of 375-400 hp

Thanks! That sounds pretty healthy.
Who is "we" in this context? Is Magnumswap.com your page?
If so...thank you again. That site helped me out immensely. :cool:
 
OH dang, I did forget the B&M flex plate I used since I didn't have one on the engine when I did this. It was a little pricey but worth it should you not have a flex plate that came on the Magnum originally. I mated the 5.9 to a '70, 727. The converter is a zero balance. (AKA Neutral balance.)

I've been shown a few cams. The issue right now is the stock Magnum heads and the lift limits. (Actual wallet limits :D )
I'd like to get a set of heads and a moderate cam.
 
OH dang, I did forget the B&M flex plate I used since I didn't have one on the engine when I did this. It was a little pricey but worth it should you not have a flex plate that came on the Magnum originally. I mated the 5.9 to a '70, 727. The converter is a zero balance. (AKA Neutral balance.)

I've been shown a few cams. The issue right now is the stock Magnum heads and the lift limits. (Actual wallet limits :D )
I'd like to get a set of heads and a moderate cam.
Same, except I don't have a Magnum block and the trans is a '77 998. I think the next plot is converting 4bbl intakes left & right for Magnum rails.

Good posts above.
Absolutely start with www.magnumswap.com . That site has nearly everything you'll need to know and it's hard to imagine that you'll walk away not wanting a Magnum motor. They're easier to come by than comparable LA motors and have a lot of benefits...not the least of which are the updated gasket designs that drastically reduce leaks.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the flex plate issue. If you have an automatic, you'll need to swap to a Magnum style flex plate with external balancing. It's not expensive...but really important. ;)

I have ~500 miles on my 5.9 Magnum swap now...so far, so good! I haven't had much tuning time but the thing starts right up and drives every time, no leaks, no trouble. No regrets here!!
Just had to redrill one hole in the stock Magnum flex a bit, and it lined up fine with the 904, had to cut some of the bell for the sensor, drove it for a bit with the carb straightening some things out- then collected the rest of the parts for the FI.
 
Been looking at your site also day. Love it.
Thanks, we try to make it easy to get through site without any crap. We work really hard to find the deals and parts so we can beat the big guys on price, have the right parts and manufacture our own stuff.

Thanks! That sounds pretty healthy.
Who is "we" in this context? Is Magnumswap.com your page?
If so...thank you again. That site helped me out immensely. :cool:
No, thats another FABO guy, I am magnummopar.com. I have been doing magnum swaps for 17 years, professional mechanic/fabricator for 34 years,started speed shop that turned into jeep shop. we have a sister site backwoodsoffroad.com that supports 5.2/5.9 swaps in wranglers and built over 60 V8 TJ's . We added Magnummopars about a year and a half ago as I had built a couple magnum A bodies 10 years ago and have always been Mopar nut. When I started magnummopar, I brought in a partner, "J" who at 27 is much more adept at web building, social media and is just a super hard worker with lots of parts experience. Were both single dads, building cars and raising our daughters. We build and sell resto A bodies, FI magnum swaps, overdrive/5 speeds, front and rear disks etc...we are always building new parts like our new belly pan kits, ps/ac delete bracket, brand new harnesses, our cams and our headers/exhaust manifolds.
 
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I'm not sure what I need to do...
"One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the flex plate issue. If you have an automatic, you'll need to swap to a Magnum style flex plate"
OK, but what if I plan on connecting to an A-833 that was connected to a 1969 340?
 
I'm not sure what I need to do...
"One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the flex plate issue. If you have an automatic, you'll need to swap to a Magnum style flex plate"
OK, but what if I plan on connecting to an A-833 that was connected to a 1969 340?
You need a 5.9 Magnum weighted flywheel, for a carb swap you don't necessarily need a truck fly and bellhousing.
 
I'm not sure what I need to do...
"One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the flex plate issue. If you have an automatic, you'll need to swap to a Magnum style flex plate"
OK, but what if I plan on connecting to an A-833 that was connected to a 1969 340?
We sell a 130 tooth flywheel for either 5.2 internal or 5.9 external balance and both are available with reluctor ring if you want to run factory FI with your 833.


You need a 5.9 Magnum weighted flywheel, for a carb swap you don't necessarily need a truck fly and bellhousing.
There is no factory weighted 5.9 flywheel that will work with 833, they are too big and no magnum bell housing that will accept 833. The only solution with 5.9 is the new flywheel as LA 360 is different balance. Dont worry, they are only $285 outright which for billet steel is cheap! I believe they are made in USA as well.
 
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Yep! Post #4. Engine shot.
Edelbrock carb electric fuel pump.

image.jpeg
 
I thought it was illegal to go around with your fuel pump hanging out? Get that thing in your tank where it belongs! Never mind, you can do that in NY, just dont ask for a 64 oz Pepsi:lol:
 
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