Cast or aluminum intake?

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Foomaster

Foomaster

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Building a 416 stroker motor from a 1973 block using the scat pak assembly (see pic), lunatic voodoo cam 494/513 lift with 226/234 duration, eldelbrock performer heads giving the motor about a 9:9 compression.
Anyway at a mopar show and swap over the weekend, I found a 72 to 73 cast intake for decent money and with the help of another guy there he said there was not much difference between the cast intake and the aftermarket aluminum intakes. The cast has the EGR holes inside the intake but is not fully set up for EGR.

After the purchase, I took it to my machine shop guy and he claims a 20 horsepower difference between cast and aluminum with the heads I'm using. Opinions anyone.

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I would use an Eddy aluminum RPM performer air gap on that motor.....Although the cast iron 340 manifold was a good design , the Eddy is much better and weighs about 1/2 the weight of the cast one.....If I remember correctly the cast one weighs about 55 lbs. and The aluminum around 27 or so....Your machine shop guy was right...probably about 20 HP + reduced weight savings....WIN WIN
 
Thanks. That helps. I paid 80 for the cast so I think I can get that back.
 
Why so low on the compression??...your running aluminum heads you can get away with a LOT more..my 416 using Edelbrock heads and same cam your using had 11.9 to 1 comp. ran just fine on pump gas..as for the intake like previously stated get yourself a Edelbrock air gap(stay away from the chinese ripoff ones)the cast intake too heavy...
 
The OE cast intake is capable but does fall behind a decent aluminum unit. Adding cubes doesn't help the OE intake. And on top of aluminum heads will have constant heads shaking and questions galore. IMO, not the way to go.

IF, the idea is to look stock and run like stink, then the aluminum heads are out of place and porting the OE intake is needed to help it and the project along. The EGR holes can be welded up (or ignored) and the outside pad where the valve site has to be worked on. Ether instal the gasket and valve or a plate over the top. (Remember the EGR valves opens with a lack of vacuum.)
The OE intake needs a good deep and if possible full porting and plenum work to get it going.

F.A.S.T. Guys can run 11's with the OE intake. Though I'm sure the engine would explode with power and a proper intake. (And headers!)
They do use a massive C.I.D. As well.

ANYWAY! Run a RPM-AG. Perhaps a Weiand. Myron has had excellent results with it but as he says, it works best in his "Application", yours may vary.
 
The cast iron intake is a well designed part. My car runs low 12s with a cast original 340 intake on my 340. It has ran a best time of 11.89 according to the previous owner. I would chose a cast intake over a performer any day. Performer RPM and RPM air gap are another story. They will out perform the cast intake.
 
If your going to "not" use the cast, make sure you get a intake that will out perform it, like the eddy air gap.
 
As far as low compression, I wanted a car that was street able and run off pump gas instead of airplane fuel. Letting my machine shop guy know this he advise be not to go over 10 compression. With my build I could of got heads with 10.3 compression. I will definitely run a eddy air gap knowing the Horsepower difference and of course weight. I may have to look more into this compression issue. Unfortunately heads have been ordered and received.
 
Ok I know nothing about strokers;
but IMO,
With that small cam, aluminum heads and 9.9 will probably let you run on 87E10, which can be had anywhere. I had a 367 like that, with a tad more C/R. It was DYnomite. I cannot imagine stroker-torque. But I'd sure like to take one for a spin someday.
 
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