Casting your own tail light lens

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Princess Valiant

A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
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Does anyone here have any experience making a tail light lens??

I am working with a 63 valiant wagon and the tail lights are nearly impossible to find, so my idea is to make a pair.

I have one NOS lens and I am pretty sure on 63 they are the same from side to side??

Does anyone have any idea where to get the materials to make a lens??

I really don't want to use the NOS lens but I would rather make a pair so that they are replaceable because if they ever get faded or busted, then I can just re-cast another pair.

 
Does anyone here have any experience making a tail light lens??

I am working with a 63 valiant wagon and the tail lights are nearly impossible to find, so my idea is to make a pair.

I have one NOS lens and I am pretty sure on 63 they are the same from side to side??

Does anyone have any idea where to get the materials to make a lens??

I really don't want to use the NOS lens but I would rather make a pair so that they are replaceable because if they ever get faded or busted, then I can just re-cast another pair.


Might check around and find someone with a 3D printer.
 
Classic industry shows these in their catalog. About 150 for the pair
 
Does anyone here have any experience making a tail light lens??

I am working with a 63 valiant wagon and the tail lights are nearly impossible to find, so my idea is to make a pair.

I have one NOS lens and I am pretty sure on 63 they are the same from side to side??

Does anyone have any idea where to get the materials to make a lens??

I really don't want to use the NOS lens but I would rather make a pair so that they are replaceable because if they ever get faded or busted, then I can just re-cast another pair.

this is the easiest way. If there is no undercuts on the tail light lens. Get a good quality clear resin(with UV resistance) and some red resin dye to test for the proper color. make a 2 part mold and pour a replica. I have done the license plate cover on my 66 and am working on finishing a mold of a Lens/bezel combo that is all red and 1 piece instead of the bezel being chrome.
https://www.alumilite.com/PDFs/Printables/How to cast resins/TailLight-Casting-without-Equipment.pdf
and part 1 of 2 videos
 
Classic industry shows these in their catalog. About 150 for the pair
Mopar A-Body - Valiant Parts | MA3654 | 1963 Plymouth Valiant - Tail Lamp Lens; LH | Classic Industries

that is for 63 valiant 2 door, convertible and 4 door sedan. ......wagons are way different but thanks

012317-Barn-Finds-1963-Plymouth-Valiant-Wagon-3-e1485198531730-630x354.jpg


17621482-700-0.jpg
 
I had something like a hundred or more complete with the housing NOS 30 yrs ago. They were for the regular cars. Were the wagons different? I sold them to a large Mopar salvage yard/parts dealer I think was in Minnesota . Seems like It was Freemans. Anybody remember them?
 
So who's going to design the part for the 3D printer? Also who is printing in clear red plastic? You guys make is sound so easy.
 
So who's going to design the part for the 3D printer? Also who is printing in clear red plastic? You guys make is sound so easy.
I recently bought a 3d printer, and have a good idea of what it takes to draft up a model and print it. The issue becomes not finding clear red plastic, but making something that will stand up to the elements.
 
Another option is using the 3D printer to create a model that can then be used to make a mold, but at that point, it would just be like using the NOS part to do the same. The only difference is that there's no risk of damaging an original part.
 
Another option is using the 3D printer to create a model that can then be used to make a mold, but at that point, it would just be like using the NOS part to do the same. The only difference is that there's no risk of damaging an original part.
the higher quality the printer the smoother the output, BUT you will have to almost go to an expensive professional type printer to get the type of surface quality you would need for a tail light lens. here is the print of $100 to $600 printer that is most common. yes you can smooth it out using chemicals depending on the filament but they all need work @ below the really expensive pro printers.
this is on a $100-$390 printer after add-on
!!!!3d printing ridge.jpg


this is supposed to be a $1500 plus printer and not chemically finished

!!higher end printer $1500.jpg


a youtube video of the cold acetone finishing procedure (yes details are lost if your not careful)



(I'm not going to talk about the horror of designing the retroreflectors ) It is just soooo much easier to make a 2 part mold casting of the original NOS one. No extra smoothing or sanding other than getting rid of the sprues and flash on the edges but at the same or just a bit lower cost to have a 3d printer do it for youNo it should not get destroyed or damaged if you wax the heck out of it so the rubber does not stick to it anywhere. I have done a dozen different types of lenses for 30's and 40's cars and haven't lost a lens yet.
materials needed are:
(got mine from Alumalite because of cheaper shipping. but smooth-on works too!)
OOMOO® Series 25 or 30 is a 1 to 1 ratio and no degassing required. Smooth-on

1. Clay to hold the bottom of the model you want to cast while making the 2 part mold (3.00-5.00)
2. some way to contain the rtv (I used leggo's, stole em from the grandkids)
3. wax or spray release agent (get the correct one for your product) 15.00 to 20.00 Ease Release® 205
4. RTV (trial size might be enough 35.00)
5. Clear Resin UV resistant (trials size will do a set of lens) 29.00-49.00
different types for different thickness of plastic resin and gram scale required.
  • Crystal Clear® 202 - 1⁄16" - ½" (.16 cm - 1.25 cm) thick.
  • Crystal Clear® 200 - ½" - 3" (1.25 cm - 7.5 cm) thick.
  • Crystal Clear® 204 - 3" - 6" (7.5 cm - 15.25 cm) thick.
  • Crystal Clear® 206 - greater than 6" (15.25 cm) thick.
6. red UV dye $15.00
7 assorted cups mixing paddles and cleanup materials.
mine was about 115.00 and I got 4 tail light lenses and 6 license plate light covers from the trial size of everything except the RTV(needed 2 since the lens was 11" long and curved 4" upwards)
 
it some NOS lenses. They are still out there. i
It might be easier to heat a lens from a two door four door car and bend it in the correct shape. they're not that different.
 
3-d print it, a guy at work has one at home, he makes some pretty amazing stuff for penny's.
We also have a few nice large ones at work, the possibility's are endless with these, I was thinking of buying one and making a few hard to source mopar parts, it is so easy if you have any cad background.
 
I'd really love to see how someone can "easy" design a lens like that. Do not forget: It has to fit. It has to look right. It has facets and reflective surfaces inside. It has to have a great surface finish inside and out (most printers create parts with layers and a rough finish). It has to be clear & red & withstand heat/cold/rain. I don't even think there is a suitable resin for this.
 
Not exactly feasible for full size ones, is it?

who knows, we started off talking about making a mold, and thats where i thought there might be some overlap
see, the main objection seemed to be finding the right material

but what if she makes a mold, and then just melts some existing tail light lenses?
 
over th last couple years I had looked every so often for tail light lens for a 63 and a 64 dart. yes hey are some what different. I had one guy send me wagon lens, I believe he did not know they were different for wagons. yep got a refund.....
and sometimes I would see lens on there that were stated for wagons. wagon lens are rare but I say not worth near what a car lens is worth!??? worth watching for.
also couple yr s back I found a guy IN Mexico casting some lens, me and others on here got some for 65 cuda...
would be a fun thing to make no doubt....
 
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