Center Link Position Advice Needed

[BHB4408]

'72 Dodge Dart with 512 CI 440 Block Based. Got it all together, but my OEM Steering Linkage is hitting my oil pan when turning hard right. I need a little extra room to allow the Idler Arm to sway all the way under the pan. The Center Link upward bend is what's hitting. Searching for lower Pitman Arm and Idler Arm, but can't find anything. I don't want to notch my expensive aftermarket Canton Oil Pan. If I switched to all new steering linkage from a '73+ A Body, with the Pitman and Idler Arms that go down through the Center Link, would that drop the whole Center Link down a little? I appreciate any advice or thoughts. Thanks,

 

[Professor Fate]

The only place I've seen lately that carries the special (yes, they are different) big block idler and pitman arms is Firm Feel. But dust off the Gold Card- they ain't cheap.
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering
440Source carries a dropped center centerlink, if you think that would also help.
Dropped Centerlink - 1967-72 A Body

 

[junkyardhero]

the 73+ gives more room, but i think that's mainly at the ends for the headers.

more than likely you're gonna need the 440 source dropped centerlink.

you got some pics?

but if the idler

 

[BHB4408]

I see the dropped Center Link that's available, but the only place my Center Link is touching the oil pan is where bends up to reach the Idler Arm. The dropped Center Link would have the same problem. It needs to be able to move another 3 inches further into the oil pan. This Pitman Arm side is not problem. It doesn't move far enough toward the oil pan to touch it.

I was hoping the 1973+ Idler Arm, Pitman Arm and Center Link all dropped lower so all I need to do is heat and dent the oil pan a little to make it clear. Hope someone on here has done that.

 

[413]

That's why factory A body BB oil pans have a relief stamped in the passenger side to avoid the contact there.

And the 187 pan is a good substitute.

 

[Professor Fate]

I see the dropped Center Link that's available, but the only place my Center Link is touching the oil pan is where bends up to reach the Idler Arm. The dropped Center Link would have the same problem. It needs to be able to move another 3 inches further into the oil pan. This Pitman Arm side is not problem. It doesn't move far enough toward the oil pan to touch it.

I was hoping the 1973+ Idler Arm, Pitman Arm and Center Link all dropped lower so all I need to do is heat and dent the oil pan a little to make it clear. Hope someone on here has done that.

The basic bends of the idler and pitman arms are the same '72 and earlier and '73 and later, they just reversed the direction of the stud so it points down on '73 instead of up on '72 and earlier. There's probably only about an inch to be gained (at rest), if that. Make sure you take suspension travel into account when you consider that. It has helped some people, others not so much. Depends a lot on how your engine sits and the pan you're running. You may be able to get an additional 1/4 inch or more by shimming the motor mounts a bit (assuming you're running factory-style mounts and not a motor plate/elephant ears).
One thing to consider-
As far as cost goes, to get the correct idler and pitman arms from Firm Feel may cost you $410.00, but similar quality '73 and up units from FF are going to run you $245.00 and you still need to source a centerlink. Say you drop a C-note on a centerlink, and you're at $345. That's only a $65.00 difference, and you have the correct parts. Don't let 65 bucks for suspension/steering parts dissuade you- after all, how much $$ did you sink into that 512 stroker? Don't let $65 stand in your way to make it fit.
Just my opinion.

 

[junkyardhero]

The basic bends of the idler and pitman arms are the same '72 and earlier and '73 and later, they just reversed the direction of the stud so it points down on '73 instead of up on '72 and earlier. There's probably only about an inch to be gained (at rest), if that. Make sure you take suspension travel into account when you consider that. It has helped some people, others not so much. Depends a lot on how your engine sits and the pan you're running. You may be able to get an additional 1/4 inch or more by shimming the motor mounts a bit (assuming you're running factory-style mounts and not a motor plate/elephant ears).

suspension travel has no bearing on the idler/pitman/crosslink. the position of and movement arc is fixed.

motor position is probably the the place to gain the most purchase, a little shim can go a long way.

 

[junkyardhero]

I see the dropped Center Link that's available, but the only place my Center Link is touching the oil pan is where bends up to reach the Idler Arm. The dropped Center Link would have the same problem. It needs to be able to move another 3 inches further into the oil pan. This Pitman Arm side is not problem. It doesn't move far enough toward the oil pan to touch it.

I was hoping the 1973+ Idler Arm, Pitman Arm and Center Link all dropped lower so all I need to do is heat and dent the oil pan a little to make it clear. Hope someone on here has done that.

it's *likely* you're SOL then.

you'll need to notch or you need another pan.

if you have a pic, i can tell you-- i have my car on the rack with 73~76 stuff and i also have a 67~72 set up that i can snap on there for comparison.

the arc of the idler is *basically* the same between the two, and the difference in location of the joint portion is not that much of a departure. but it *might* be enough to just clear.

 

[Professor Fate]

suspension travel has no bearing on the idler/pitman/crosslink. the position of and movement arc is fixed.

motor position is probably the the place to gain the most purchase, a little shim can go a long way.

True. I guess I was thinking more about the inner tie rod joint flexing, which can affect header clearance. But you're right, suspension travel shouldn't affect clearance at the oil pan. My bad. Time for more coffee.

 

[junkyardhero]

True. I guess I was thinking more about the inner tie rod joint flexing, which can affect header clearance. But you're right, suspension travel shouldn't affect clearance at the oil pan. My bad. Time for more coffee.

entirely valid train of thought! i was mostly caffeinated and still took a second thought on it.

also i'm operating with the benefit of having all that stuff directly in my face over the last two days while fitting it up and checking clearances.

 

[BHB4408]

Found a solution, and would like your thoughts on whether it's acceptable.

I adjusted the tie rod adjuster as short as it would go on the passenger side, and out pretty long on the driver side, with plenty of threads left inside the adjuster column. Doing that gives me a full range of steering both ways. The passenger side center link touches the oil pan when fully steered to the right, but the steering box keeps it from going hard into it.

I appreciate your help with this question, and will listen to any advice you have on my solution.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You have the wrong oil pan. You need either a 187 pan or a 699 pan. 440 source offers both very reasonably. I would not run the car that way. The steering box needs to be in the center going straight down the road. If it's not, it can cause all sorts of steering maladies as the gearbox tries to hunt center. So that means it can result in a pull to one side at the very least. Adjusting the tie rods off center is not prudent nor is it something I would ever recommend. The correct oil pan is the correct fix here.

 

[junkyardhero]

Found a solution, and would like your thoughts on whether it's acceptable.

I adjusted the tie rod adjuster as short as it would go on the passenger side, and out pretty long on the driver side, with plenty of threads left inside the adjuster column. Doing that gives me a full range of steering both ways. The passenger side center link touches the oil pan when fully steered to the right, but the steering box keeps it from going hard into it.

I appreciate your help with this question, and will listen to any advice you have on my solution.

i don't find this to be acceptable and i wouldn't run it that way.

it may *look* fine, but you'll find that the steering will likely bind in one direction and "whip" in the other-- the inputs at the wheel will be different from side to side and no longer predictable. more than likely it will wander terribly on anything other than a perfectly flat and smooth road.

 

[Professor Fate]

Not to mention your steering wheel will be clocked half a turn or more off.