cfm for 318

-
Problem with that formula is people treat it as gospel. Someone published it so it's the absolute in selection.

All good, just pointing out the fly in the ointment with it.

The OP's ede 600 will work fine on that 318.
 
crackedback said:
Problem with that formula is people treat it as gospel. Someone published it so it's the absolute in selection.

All good, just pointing out the fly in the ointment with it.

The OP's ede 600 will work fine on that 318.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the 600 will work fine.
 
crlush said:
A 600 cfm ran great on my 318, buy a good book that explains how to properly tune your carb and you will be a pro!
Click to expand...

Yes, and for the record, that book is NOT the ubiquitous "Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carbs" book. That thing isn't fit for use as toilet paper.

The book on tuning Demon carbs is actually a much more useful book about Holleys than the Holley book.

Still haven't found a book about Carters/Edelbrock that I think is worth reading.
 
I went from a totally stock engine to an Eddie dual plane performer and the 1406 carb.
I got better performance(obviously) and much better gas mileage than I did with the stock two barrel.
I did up the jets though from .098/.095 to .100/.098 because it was runnig pretty white on the plugs.
Runs great now though and I drive it everywhere I go.
Just a DD, not a racer.
 
..back in the day i think the early 340 had a 485 cfm
..early 375 hp 440 was about 585 cfm
..428 cobra jet was 735 cfm
..these are just figures i have read..
 
My wifes car ran a 12.9 with a Holley 650 4777, same day I swapped on a 750 (4779) and the car slowed down. No matter what I did that 340 did not like a larger carb.
 
I run a 600 edelbrock on both of my 318's,All stock except for dual exhaust.1 car 1 truck no complaints here.
 
im gonna slap it on there and see if the carb will do what i want it to do. im just gonna be cruising in it. probably put my old ladys head back in the seat here and there and no more. if it dont do that, ill be looking for something bigger. thanks for all the input
 
The 1405 leans toward performance and my 1406 is calibrated for fuel economy.
You will be fine with 1405 since I know my car would be faster with more fuel but it does great as a DD with the econo calibration.



Pirate duster said:
im gonna slap it on there and see if the carb will do what i want it to do. im just gonna be cruising in it. probably put my old ladys head back in the seat here and there and no more. if it dont do that, ill be looking for something bigger. thanks for all the input
Click to expand...
 
Just went through this and ended up with a 650 Thunder series AVS Eddie. In my 65 i am running a 71 340/727, Air Gap,#231 Purple Shaft,TTI's and 323's I Did some research and called their Tech Line. Their advise was the 650 would be a more versatile unit on a street engine but at higher Rpm you would get more HP out of the 800 cfm. They said the 650 is ready to run.
I plan on keeping my RPM's under 6000. Unfortunatlly my special order RobbMc starter is on back order so it will be a while before we see how the 650 performs.
Has anyone any comments or experience with RobbMc performance?
 
i went ahead and got a eddy 750 today. as soon as i get the motor back together, ill let you all know how it turns out. got wiring to deal with too. i decided on a 750 b/c the wifey wont be with me all the time. thanks for all the responses, charlie
 
Carter carb; buy the kit. Before putting it on, ritchen secondary jets 3 or 4.
Now when you start that eye-burning thing;put a vacuum gauge on it, adjust screws for highest vacuum, keep turning down the idle until rpm is ok.

Read the blackened plugs. Now swap primary rods to leaner idle; same wot upper shaft. Go run it hard, without opening the secs; re-read plugs. Adjust idle again with gauge.

Keep playing with primary, until eyes don't water, plugs look good. Usually it can be done with only the rods, sometimes a jet change, then start all over.

The jetting in the sec doesn't affect the drivability. If you want to check them, make a full bore; you can drive 1 mile back to the house, and still read the plugs for that.

The springs; Turn the covers 1/2 way off, so you can see the rods move. Idle- all the way up, goose it-instant down. Acel rod- cloest to carb body.

Infinite tuning on them.
 
I've run quite a few stockish 318's with 600 cfm carbs (Holley and Edelbrock) with great results. Good choice for a driver 318 that you want nice lower end power from. This is where you want daily driver power anyways. Light years better than the factory 2bbl setup.

My buddy ran a 500 Edelbrock on his Diplomat with a Weiand Action Plus intake and it was a nice setup as well. It had stock manifolds but dual exhaust.

If you have the room, I highly reccomend a carb spacer. Made a very noticeable difference in my '65 Newport which a driven all the time.
 
It is entirely dependant on what type carburetor you use. A Thermoquad for example, will allow that 318 to suck down 850 CFM. Whereas a square bore carburetor is ......well.....more square. In other words, the primaries and secondaries are closer together in flow. I prefer a thremoquad on most everything except the hottest street or race cars. Their small primaries allow very snappy throttle response, while the beer can size secondaries allow a huge rush of air and fuel for blinding acceleration if tuned correctly. When they are right, you can bend the floorboard with the gas pedal and they will not hesitate one bit. All this and they can get 20 plus MPG.
 
Im with Stroker, The Plastic Fantastic! Join the Thermo-squad! and if a 33 year old carb scares you, get the NEW Thermo-Quad, oops, the new Barry Grant!
StreetDemonBrochure.jpg
 
StrokerScamp said:
It is entirely dependant on what type carburetor you use. A Thermoquad for example, will allow that 318 to suck down 850 CFM. Whereas a square bore carburetor is ......well.....more square. In other words, the primaries and secondaries are closer together in flow. I prefer a thremoquad on most everything except the hottest street or race cars. Their small primaries allow very snappy throttle response, while the beer can size secondaries allow a huge rush of air and fuel for blinding acceleration if tuned correctly. When they are right, you can bend the floorboard with the gas pedal and they will not hesitate one bit. All this and they can get 20 plus MPG.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. I went for a ride in my buddies 440 powered(75 patrol car engine) '74 Charger and when he stomped it, I swear the TQ would have sucked all the clouds from the sky!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top