Change to '73 steering for header clearance?

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AndyF

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My '72 Duster has small bolt pattern disc brakes on it as well as new Centerlines and tires. But, the old style center link comes out up rather than down. That doesn't work with the TTi headers so I'm thinking of swapping over to the '73 style center link which drops out down.

So is it possible to connect the '72 disc knuckles to the '73 steering linkage? They don't appear to be compatible but I haven't really measured it all that closely yet. Just wondering if others have mated the two or if everyone just goes ahead and converts to '73 and up stuff from knuckle to knuckle.

Anyone have some pictures of the SS/AA cars in this area? What are they running for centerlinks and knuckles and stuff like that? I looked around a bit but didn't have any luck finding parts for sale that those guys are using.
 
A I understand the pitman arm is different and needs to match the center link. This is when they went large selector on the PS box. There are two pitmans for 73 up, manual and PS. You might get away with the 73-up pitman and center but they also changed the K-frame too.
 
I don't know about TTI compatibility, but the steering linkage indeed needs to be matched up, IE the idler, pitman, and center link all have to be either all earlier or all later (73/ later) and the steering box pitman has to fit the pitman arm of course.
 
Del’s right on, you have to match the pitman, idler, and center link. There’s no real big change to the tie rod ends. There is a different part number for the ‘73+ stuff, but the have the same taper on the tie rod ends so that stuff is all interchangeable at the lower ball joint/steering arm. There will be a half turn difference on the inner tie rod end to match the center link going to the 73+ style.

Also, you can use a 73+ manual steering pitman arm on a 67-72 power steering box, which allows use of the 73+ center link with a small sector power steering box. I converted my ‘71 Dart to the 73+ steering parts, but I already had Firm Feel rebuild a small sector box.
 
I have manual steering so I think I can just buy a '73 pittman arm and idler and put the '73 center link in. I wasn't sure about how the tie rods would work since the '72 style is at 90 degrees and the '73 style is vertical. Seems like even if the taper is the same the pivot point is different so the bump steer might be off?
 
I don't think bump steer would be a problem as they are "designed in." That is I would guess the new/ old style center link has the sockets in the right place to avoid the problem.
 
It shouldn’t be a problem. How many people convert to 73+ knuckles for a disk conversion and keep the 72 down steering linkage?
 
It wasn't the cure in my case. I just went through this. Bought all front end stuff to make it work. I have an older set of 2" tti. Are you working off the stock trans mount? Since you have a motor plate, look at sliding the engine back, and up, also slip a couple washers behind the upper steering box mounts To tilt the pitman arm down.

Years ago I bent the old style pitman arm to clear. I decided I don't want to go faster with that, and started this
Can of worms.
 
jamesdart said:
It wasn't the cure in my case. I just went through this. Bought all front end stuff to make it work. I have an older set of 2" tti. Are you working off the stock trans mount? Since you have a motor plate, look at sliding the engine back, and up, also slip a couple washers behind the upper steering box mounts To tilt the pitman arm down.

Years ago I bent the old style pitman arm to clear. I decided I don't want to go faster with that, and started this
Can of worms.
Click to expand...

Okay, good to know. I think I'll mock it up both ways and see where I end up. I can build my own stuff if I have to but thought there might be an off the shelf solution.
 
I'm not sure exactly which headers I have. They exchanged hands a couple times im guessing they didn't work for those guys.
I had to do some hammering to clear the back of the block and bellhousing flange. move one tube to clear the steering column.
 
Curious for more details. Is this going to be the Trick Flow B engine, or is this a different project, and will it be motor plate or a slant six or small block conversion? Asking because the TTI 2" headers were designed for RB engines With stock exhaust height heads, so they fit everyone's combo different. My B engine with stock height Stage V cast iron heads went into my 75 Dart Sport with Schumacher slant six conversion mounts nicely with those headers, but I had to move one bend in one left side tube. I am running manual steering as well. Don't remember which pitman arm and center link I used because it's been ten years. I do remember trying two styles I had available. Will try to check pitman arm tonight. Engine is out for upgrades so it's easy to see.
 
This is a '72 Duster with a 400 block and Trick Flow heads. Headers are the TTI 2 inch stepped headers designed for low deck blocks with standard port locations. The headers clear the steering linkage but you can't take the linkage off the car with the headers installed. It is like a Chinese puzzle where everything fits together but once it is together you can't move anything. I'm just thinking that if I switch over to the '73 style steering linkage then the steering linkage (center link) will be easier to remove since it drops out the bottom. The '72 style has to go up to remove it which is impossible with the headers installed.

DSC_1686 (Large).JPG


DSC_1683 (Large).JPG
 
So they actually make a header now for low deck with standard exhaust ports?
 
I see. Those stepped headers are shaped different than the older straight 2" version I am running, so my info won't help. Love that engine though. Keep up the good work.
 
I mocked it up with the '73 center link. Looks like the bump steer will be better since the tie rod pivot points move out and line up with the LCA pivot. But there is a lot of angle on the tie rod since the inner taper points down and the out taper points up. I'll have to see if this is a problem and if so, come up with a solution.

DSC_1784 (Large).JPG
 
I thought that was why they had different tie rod ends.
The tie rod angle looks to match the angle of the control arm
 
Is your mockup photo set to your expected ride height, or is it fully extended in a rebound position? It looks like it's set high to show full rebound extension or close to it, but I may be looking at it incorrectly.
 
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