Changing motor mounts with engine in car

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its a 3 point mount, 2 motors and a trans. Someone once told me that if you ran solids, you have to run them everywhere so everything is tied in to the chassis/unibody/whatever. If you ran 1 on the torque side, that will eventually crack the ears or the mount as the motor is still going to flex on the rubber side and all that will be magnified via leverage onto the solid side. I have run solids on a warm Cleveland and didnt feel the vibes were all that bad. Whats the advantage besides not breaking the rubber over time? That is why machinery is on isolators even when bolted to the ground. What do they say about palm trees? They give a little and can weather a storm where as a rigid tree will break or fall over.


I only used a solid under the transmission once. For some reason it cracked the tail housing at the mount. I was told at the time to never use a solid mount on the engine and solid under the gear box.

When I switched to an engine plate and mid mount, I solid mounted the gear box and never hurt it. Never figured out why the first one broke.
 
Can't think of a moden factory car that ran solid mounts. I'm sure there are a few? But the vast majority.......... Well you can see where this is going.
 
I had a BB duster with rubber spool mounts and a chain, and rubber trans mount, went 8.90s.
But I do remember being told when using solid motor mounts not to run a solid trans mount because of chassis flex and possibly cracking the trans.
 
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Can't think of a moden factory car that ran solid mounts. I'm sure there are a few? But the vast majority.......... Well you can see where this is going.


So...if the factory doesn't do something it should never be done. Ok. Got it.


Never change cam. The factory put in the most bitchin' cam ever.
Don't raise compression. The factory put CR on max kill.
Don't change displacement. The factory knew exactly what they were doing.
Tires should remain OE specified. They were the best you could get.
Never change the tune up. The factory spent trillions making the tune up just right.
Don't even think about changing converters. The factory spent trillions perfecting those too.
If you are going to change rear axle gears...only use OE available gears. Any lower and it's never been tested.
Headers? Are you outside your mind???? A dozen engineers in at least 8 fields spent trillions designing those exhaust manifolds to perform for the life of your car. To modify or change them would be idiotic at best. You can't do R&D like the factory.
New carb? Bullshit. Why change that? The factory worked like dogs sorting out exactly what you need. You'll just **** it up with a carb way to big and kill everything below 7500 RPM.
What's wrong with the factory intake manifold? Not a thing. It was designed to be manufactured easily, fit under the hood, operate from sub zero to Africa hot conditions and still pass idiotic government regs. You damn sure can't beat that.
Why would you consider porting your cylinder heads? Millions of dollars of science and testing went into developing the best port for displacement/rod ratio/effective RPM and you, as a mere amature can't possible improve on perfection. All you will do is raise the effective RPM and ruin every other part you should not touch. It's way over your head. Don't bother.
It's a serious waste of time to recurve your Chrysler distributor. Thousands of hours went into developing the timing curve that was installed by the factory. You can't possibly know more than the factory.


Using this logic, there is no reason to change anything. The FACT of the matter is plain and simple. The OEM's only need to make a part good enough to get past the warranty. To, about 5-7 years because in the 60's and 70's that's all the longer most people owned a car. Once you sold it, the warranty was gone.
And cost. Never think the bean counters don't rule the corporate world. When new, there is very little difference between the rubber and solid mounts as far as driving feel. But 5 years down the road the rubber will start to get soft and wear out. Now, we have added a part that most people pay to have changed out. This means the company that provided that mount has a guaranteed revenue source for that part well past the production life of the car. The aftermarket suppliers love that built in revenue source and may even cut the price down a bit because of most likely future gains.
And last but not least...is cost. A rubber biscuit style mount is next to dirt cheap to produce. It is literally two studs pressed into plates (only real labor is cutting the plates of the stock and installing the stud in each plate) that are then set in a mold and hot liquid rubber is blown into the mold. Once the mold cools a bit, they knock the mount out and there it is...cheap and easy and will last long enough to make everyone happy but the car owner.

Let's look at the solid mount. First you need a length of plate. Then you need a fixture to take said plate and wrap the plate around the fixture. While still in the fixture, someone or a robot must then run a bead of weld down one side of the mount. Then the two studs need to be fitted and welded into place. When all that fun is over, the part now goes out to be tumbled a bit for the correct surface finish and then gets a swim in cad plating sauce. This is more labor intensive and more costly due to finish processes by far than the rubber mounts costs.

So we see boys and girls...manufacturers almost never deliver the best. They deliver good enough for the first owner and good enough that our outsourced supplier can make his money on that part for the next 12-20 years.

The factory uses rubber mounts because they are CHEAPER to make. It isn't rocker surgery. It's simple economics. It's called Mitt Romney republicanism. Planned obsolescence. Or certain life cycle. Or many other terms meant to say that the manufacturer can skimp and make junk as long as the part can go past the projected minimum miles or time.

Rubber mounts are NOT better but they ARE cheaper. That is all.
 
I've been using solid mounts since 1980. Never seen an broken frame from them. That's just rediculous.

The factory used rubber because it was CHEAPER. That's all.

They used them to dampen vibration from the engine...
 
They used them to dampen vibration from the engine...


Don't know where that comes from but no one ever complained about vibration on the mounts I've installed. I've never felt it in any of my cars. In fact, most talk about how much better the car drives.

They are rubber because they are cheap. And good enough for who it's for. It's that simple.
 
Don't know where that comes from but no one ever complained about vibration on the mounts I've installed. I've never felt it in any of my cars. In fact, most talk about how much better the car drives.

They are rubber because they are cheap. And good enough for who it's for. It's that simple.

The rubber dampens the vibration and noise transfer...

They added rubber biscuits to the k-frame mounts on B-bodies in 73 to make the ride smoother and less vibration...

It's about customer comfort...
 
The rubber dampens the vibration and noise transfer...

They added rubber biscuits to the k-frame mounts on B-bodies in 73 to make the ride smoother and less vibration...

It's about customer comfort...


Ok. No one ever bitched about noise or vibration to me. None of mine were noisy and it didnt vibrate. I'm kicking myself for not putting a 67-72 K member in my car now to lose those sorry assed 73 mounts. I went against my gut and it was stupid.
 
I doubt that rubber mounts are cheaper at the factory.

Don't forget about frame flex. If both solid mounts are on the K-member and a rubber is on the trans, then the K and engine make a solid unit, and the trans can flex. So that probably is quite survivable on the street. The trans mount must be seeing some good movement if there is some high torque and good traction at the strip.

If you are on rough roads a lot, then I'd surely use rubber in at least 1 point. But in rallying or rough roads or trucks, you had better use rubber all around with straps if things are really rough I've bent a K-member-like frame member just hitting a huge buried rock hard in a rally in GA years ago. If there had been solid motor mounts in there, it very well might've cracked one side of the block.
 
Hell if solid mount are so good I'm gonna put solid steel tires on my car. It's should ride just the same and they will never wear out! LOL
 
I only used a solid under the transmission once. For some reason it cracked the tail housing at the mount. I was told at the time to never use a solid mount on the engine and solid under the gear box.

When I switched to an engine plate and mid mount, I solid mounted the gear box and never hurt it. Never figured out why the first one broke.
Seems like a no-brainer to not use a solid at the trans.... once the frame starts flexing, then the force concentrates more there. I am more curious about why you did not break the trans end with the plate in place....
 
I bought a 65 dart convert a couple of yrs ago. When it got delivered I drove it down my driveway and I knew immediately that some freakin yo-yo put solid mounts in it. I have a few things to address to get it on the road. Motor mounts are on my list. I just put a new set of wheels on it.
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I run one solid mount on the driver side.

The car drives WAY better with it than with the garbage rubber mount.
 
I remember hearing many years ago, a guy had a good traction big tire Demon with a 340 4 speed with solid mounts. He ripped a nice chunk of casting out of the side of his original block. No more solid mounts for him or me. I use a short piece of chain around the motor mount bracket looped around the k-member with a piece of all-thread with just a little bit of slack, like about an 1/8 of an inch...
Also NOS Mopar mounts are of lot better quality than anything you can buy today.
I had a friend that had a real nice 68 340 Dart that didn't like my chain idea-a few months later he was looking for another 614 shroud that he had a hard time finding the first time.
 
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