Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
I want to change out the oil pan, took a lava rock, do I have to remove the motor to do this? Looks pretty tight up front by the K member!
changing out oil pan while in car- done it?
- Thread starter Cruisingram
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I guess. I just resealed Vixen's pan recently and I pulled engine and transmission. Out in about 30 minutes with hand tools. I mean seriously. Why work in a cramped space up the farkkin side down and risk a leak? Get it out, put it on the stand flip it over so you can SEE it and do it right. Or don't. It's up to you.
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Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
yeah out of the car youll be able to clean it up and make sure the gasket is installed properly etc. probably take as much time to pull it as it would screwing around under it. I would say at the least you'll want to "lift " the engine up. to get cclearance.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
You should be on a pit crew, Rusty- Geez, it takes me 30 minutes just to get up off the creeper!
Well it is a 64 base model so it has zero accessories.You should be on a pit crew, Rusty- Geez, it takes me 30 minutes just to get up off the creeper!
dano
Evil Handy Man
You should be on a pit crew, Rusty- Geez, it takes me 30 minutes just to get up off the creeper!
Takes me 30 min to find the creeper......
pishta
I know I'm right....
If he doesn't have a cherry picker and motor stand whats he gonna do? Put a 4×4 across the inner fenders, unbolt the motor mounts and 4 radiator bolts and jack up motor as far as it will jack in the bay, about 4 inches. Watch your fan to rad clearance! Secure the motor/ intake to the 4x4 with a chain and allow it to rest elevated on inners. Now you can get under there and pop the 4 or so pan bolts that are right over the K member easily. The pan should come off and slide forward or backwards to clear the K and trans lip. You can pop the idler arm and pull down the center link to get access. Be safe under there! Jackstands and work smart, don't ever work right under the motor, but off to the sides.
Alaskan_TA
Well-Known Member
You did not mention engine type or model year, so.........
I did this from underneath with the engine in place on a 1970 with a small block a couple years ago.
I did have to disconnect the arm on the steering box and the idler arm at the K-member which allowed me to swing the crossover bar out of the way for clearance.
I did this from underneath with the engine in place on a 1970 with a small block a couple years ago.
I did have to disconnect the arm on the steering box and the idler arm at the K-member which allowed me to swing the crossover bar out of the way for clearance.
69FBCuda
Stand back 10' for your viewing pleasure & Safety
Takes me 30 minutes to THINK abont finding the creeper.....
It says slant 6 in two different places in two different headers.
Ok, ok. 30 minutes AFTER the radiator is drained. Fair enough? lol
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
Just got into my new shop, still trying to find my *** with both hands. I figured I would pull it, just thought to myself and said "geez, what if I don't need to pull it, better check it out"- I started on it yesterday and got a lot pulled. It sat for so long, everytime I pull off a bolt I am afraid of stripping, breaking or messing something up that will take me a couple weeks to get ordered and in. Going to hammer away on it Wednesday and see if I can knock it out in one day. Painted the new-ish- oil pan yesterday, have valve cover and oil pan gaskets in, so goign to try to button it up real tight for a new leak swap when it's back in.
Great opportunity for you to look it over and freshen up as needed!
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
Well, part of it is that i am slowing down the rush to put the 225 2bl motor in right now, I am going to run the 170 and take a little more time doing good work on the 225. I am going to do things like port match the heads etc. I have lots of parts I need to detail and make ready.
Sounds like a great project for you! Onward!
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
I can get my slant out in 30 minutes flat, I have done it a few times but I might be cheating because my 68 dart has NO a/c, NO power steering and is a manual transmission.
Usually the hardest part is the exhaust bolts because sometimes they are a bit corroded and don't want to come apart smoothly. Other than that, a slant is so simple to remove that even a girl can do it..... In 30 minutes or less
Usually the hardest part is the exhaust bolts because sometimes they are a bit corroded and don't want to come apart smoothly. Other than that, a slant is so simple to remove that even a girl can do it..... In 30 minutes or less
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
My problem has been corroded bolts the whole way. I have power steering, not that big of a deal, but every fitting is corroded like it's welded on, I am downright scared of the exhaust flange at this point.
I replaced the pan gasket while my /6 was still in the car about 4 yrs ago. 1964 Val, 225 with no power accessories and manual trans. My fresh paint on the oil pan got scratched up and I managed to strip one of the oil pan attaching hokes on the aluminum rear seal housing. As usual, I was in a hurry to get the car ready for the trip to Carlisle. I had my son help out and swore never again.
Sure enough, I did it again this summer but removed the engine and put it on a stand. Aaaah, much better! Fixed the stripped rear seal hole, pulled rod and main caps to check bearings (perfect after 10,000 miles), touched up the paint, installed the poly mounts, that kind of stuff. Much much easier to install pan gaskets with engine upside down this way.
I will say the early A-bodies have a short engine bay and there is just enough room to pull it but i'm good for another 100,000 miles.
Edit: I pulled the engine without the trans with the hood on but removed the hood to install the engine and trans together.
Sure enough, I did it again this summer but removed the engine and put it on a stand. Aaaah, much better! Fixed the stripped rear seal hole, pulled rod and main caps to check bearings (perfect after 10,000 miles), touched up the paint, installed the poly mounts, that kind of stuff. Much much easier to install pan gaskets with engine upside down this way.
I will say the early A-bodies have a short engine bay and there is just enough room to pull it but i'm good for another 100,000 miles.
Edit: I pulled the engine without the trans with the hood on but removed the hood to install the engine and trans together.
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Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I have done it both ways on a 65 Valiant. If you have the equipment to pull the engine, I would go that way. Much better chance of no leaks with engine upside down on a stand. Under the car is a pain in the butt.
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
I think I could have had this engine out in an hour or so if not for all the corroded bolts. Sigh.
Trouble in paradise. I have a Barracuda Buddy who lives in Hawaii during the winter (2nd gen convertible) and he complains about corrosion too. He lost his house in a lava flow. He also has Hemi and 440 powered cudas here when he summers in Ohio and those corrode during the winter in an unheated garage.
Send me a plane ticket and I'd be happy to help out. Should be done by March or so. (wink)
I can just hear that conversation....."Hello, insurance company? I just lost my house in a lava flow......hello? hello?"
pishta
I know I'm right....
My minivan was a National rental from Hawaii, the entire undercarriage is orange surface rust. Just a basketball colored patina on everything. Bolts were OK so far.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Funny my water well collapsed, and I called homeowners was not surprised when they said it was not covered. A friend of mine went ballistic, said "thats bullshit call a public adjuster" I know one personally texted him in front of the gay and the adjuster said "no damage? not covered" anyway still waiting ion the driller to come out. i had the estimate and the money quicker than anything. The driller was like "15 grand" I said lets do it, I think he wasn't expecting that ...
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