Changing Wiper Pivot Seals

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Chuckman

Chuckman

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Hey Guys, I got new picot seals for my windshield wipers, no instructions included. How is the best way to get to the pivots to change them?
 
On my 65 cuda, from under the dash board, undid the wiper linkage then removed the two bolts holding each pivot... Then made/used a slippery plastic guide to push the seal on over the knurled head...
 

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first check the pivots for excessive play before beginning. Up and down is ok side to side should be very minimal to zero. If they check out ok then proceed to doing the reseal. If not find good replacements before starting. they are kind of a ***** to remove but once out it is easy.

the bolts that hold the pivots in place appear to be a self locking type and are hard to remove, spray them down and let the soak with PB blaster, WD-40 etc.. I use a 3/8 impact and a good snap on flank drive socket, do not use a junk socket to remove the bolts they are tight and can ring the heads off easy! Second, take your time if doing by hand removal generates heat and the studs are old. Don't break a stud or your F'ed.

There are two kits that I have seen one as pictured above with the zerk fittings and one like the factory one without them. They need to be drilled out to accept them. Having them is an advantage as they can now be lubed to both seal moisture out and lube the shafts for quieter operation. It is a matter of choice and price as to which way you want to go..

The instructions are posted above, but put the strip caulk in the freezer for an hour prior to doing them it allows them to separate from the plastic packing with ease. install the paper gasket, then the caulk over that as pictured. He made a tool to install the rubber grommet but you can use a socket also and force it over the shaft. re-install in reverse order as removal. Enjoy your dry feet =)
 
I think everything said so far was accurate, but I understood your question to be about getting to them. I don't think it matters too much much what car you are working on (a-body anyway). I guess smaller heater box /no AC would help. Easiest way is to do it with the dash out, which also requires the windshield to be out. If you had all that out, you probably would not have asked the question...
On my Duster I actually did them with the dash out, easy breezy, only to find the right one still leaked through the shaft. So after dash was fully assembled and heater box installed, I recently added a zerk to the right side. With the air diffuser off the AC it is visible straight up from bottom, I actually got to it easier by removing the glove box door and right vent tube. I did not do the left one yet. It may be accessible as is, but I believe will be much easier with the gauge cluster removed.

To put the rubber seal over the end, you can roll them inside out and then unroll them right into position over the splines. I also had no issue with locking nuts, so apparently that may vary by year/model.

If you have never worked on your linkage you will most likely need the plastic pivot grommets/bushings, there are numerous threads on here for those...
 
Thanks Guys for the help, its a 66 Valiant 100. It has heat, but that is the only option on it.
 
The left one might be easiest to do with the dash bezel removed. The right side w/o air shouldn't be that difficult to get to.
 
Chuckman said:
Thanks Guys for the help, its a 66 Valiant 100. It has heat, but that is the only option on it.
Click to expand...

For 66 my last comment about plastic bushings probably doesn't apply. I think you will find metal clips on linkage. Not sure if any replaceable bushing. Somebody with a 66?
 
In my 65 Cuda, Both wiper pivots are easy to get at even without pulling the dash gauge panel... I also do not have A/C... Fact is I don't even have a heater...

I did remove my drivers side bucket seat so I could lay on the floor for the left side pivot... and other then that, nuts came right off the pivot studs just fine.

Just my Two Cents... But, remember, my cuda has been an ARIZONA car all it's life, so no corrosion !!! :D
 
Since the wiper posts rotate only 180 degrees and torque is always in the same place, all the wear is in one place. If you'll mark the pot metal housings before taking them down you can put them back rotated 180 degrees. If you install the grease fittings, those would go opposite your mark.
This removes approx' 50% of the play. Result is smoother, quieter, wipers.
 
clifcuda65 said:
In my 65 Cuda, Both wiper pivots are easy to get at even without pulling the dash gauge panel... I also do not have A/C... Fact is I don't even have a heater...

I did remove my drivers side bucket seat so I could lay on the floor for the left side pivot... and other then that, nuts came right off the pivot studs just fine.

Just my Two Cents... But, remember, my cuda has been an ARIZONA car all it's life, so no corrosion !!! :D
Click to expand...

Factory heater delete? ( posted a pic of mine in another thread asking if anyone had or seen the plate before) Cheers
 
This is a very good best practice. I never thought about doing that.


RedFish said:
Since the wiper posts rotate only 180 degrees and torque is always in the same place, all the wear is in one place. If you'll mark the pot metal housings before taking them down you can put them back rotated 180 degrees. If you install the grease fittings, those would go opposite your mark.
This removes approx' 50% of the play. Result is smoother, quieter, wipers.
Click to expand...
 
Rocky_JS said:
This is a very good best practice. I never thought about doing that.
Click to expand...

I have found the left side pivots worn beyond repair. New bushings aren't a problem but the shaft is gone. In this case I'll use the shaft from a good used right pivot to renew a left pivot. This is far from a easy task and not recommended.
Anyone can gain some improvement by simply rotating the housings though.
 
clifcuda65 said:
Yes... Code: 406 Heater Delete -$71.00
Click to expand...

So your saying you had to pay for a heater, but if you didn't want one, you still had to pay $71.00 for the delete plate? Give me a break?
My dad bought a Chevy one time and had to pay them to switch optional wire wheels for standard hubcaps.
 
Chuckman said:
So your saying you had to pay for a heater, but if you didn't want one, you still had to pay $71.00 for the delete plate? Give me a break?
My dad bought a Chevy one time and had to pay them to switch optional wire wheels for standard hubcaps.
Click to expand...


No, No, No... Chrysler Plymouth deducted $71.00 off the price of the car for heater delete... That was a -$71.00 on the window sticker... Did you not see the minus sign ( - ) in my post... We don't need no stinking heaters here in Phoenix Arizona!!! Though at times I have thought of putting one in since I have stripped the parts needed out of other early A-body parts cars... but then always re-thought "Why bother"...:banghead: ~ugh~
 
lol don't need heaters but A/C is nice and cant have one without the other! I used to see that a lot of Hawaiian vehicles also. Heater delete.


To the original Poster - how did it work out for you? You gett'er done?!
 
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