Charging Issues Mechanical Voltage Regulator

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bluefish1967

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Finally converted my 67 Cuda from points to electronic with a Promorm kit from Jegs. New distributor wiring harness and orange box. The first unit had no fire, so installed the second one with now problems. Engine starts easier and sounds crisp.
Noticed that my ammeter is not showing a charge, even when the engine speed increases. Voltmeter confirms only a slight charge ( 12.5 volts ) when the idle speed is increased.
Tried adjusting the mechanical voltage regulator, but now I am confused.
It either doesn't charge at all, or with an adjustment it wants to overcharge..15 volts or more at idle and increases to 18 volts as the idle goes up. Battery is fairly new, as is the alternator.It's a one wire alternator, and all of the wiring and connections under hood have been inspected and ohmed out.
Not sure where to go...any help would be appreciated. Larry
 
Offhand I'd say you need a new regulator. Replacements for that are not mechanical, they are internally electronic. It MUST be grounded. MUST
 
Lucky for you that new replacements have electronic guts. Electronic ignitions don't last too long running on squarewaves put out by mechanical regulators...
 
Wasn't aware of that....Guess it;s time to look for a new voltage regulator.
Yes, it has a good ground..Thanks. Larry
 
Am I missing something? Don't all "one wire alternators" have the voltage regulator built into them?
 
69_340_GTS said:
Am I missing something? Don't all "one wire alternators" have the voltage regulator built into them?
Click to expand...

I believe he misapplied the term. I think he meant he has the older factory Mopar alternator, with a "one wire" field

To the OP

"One wire" originally got started with Delco with built in, self exciting alternators. They are literally one wire. You ground (mount) it, and hook the output up. Nothing else. The regulator, and excitation, is all built in

They do have some both advantages and disadvantages.
 
Point taken...I misspoke in how I described the alternator. It has 1 hot wire and 1 field wire, instead of 2 like the later models do.
Going to try to find a new voltage regulator and give that a try. Right now, I believe the alternator is good based on how much it can charge. Thanks. Larry
 
It's easy to tell if the 69/ earlier is "actually" mechanical or electronic

Look underneath. The old mechanical had two large wirewound resistors under the base

The electronic replacements do not have. They are normally "just flat" under there

I would doubt you can even actually buy a mechanical one from current retail sources.
 
UPDATE Finally found a new voltage regulator and installed it yesterday. Everything seems to be working OK now. Battery voltage was 12.56 with engine off. After startup, voltage gradually increased to 14.10 or so before leveling off. Turning the headlights on got the same results. Headlights aren't flickering anymore, and the engine even sounds crisper.
Thanks for the input guys....Larry
 
Sounds good. Most (all?) the replacement 69 / earlier units are now actually electronic
 
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