green1
Well-Known Member
Keep hacking at the crap in the block, and back flushing. Keep an eye on the radiator for trying to clog.
X1 Also you can go with an Electric fan and thermostat setup.they dont get enough air on the radiator
you will notice that your problem becomes worse after a highway cruise and then slow/stop and go traffic, the temp guage keeps getting higher with slower speed
with a 50 to 1 air to coolant ratio, there is not enough air passing through the radiator core to transmit the heat.
shroud the radiator fan and increase the fan blade count, also , make sure your lower radiator hose is not collapsing under suction load
hope this helps
they dont get enough air on the radiator
you will notice that your problem becomes worse after a highway cruise and then slow/stop and go traffic, the temp guage keeps getting higher with slower speed
with a 50 to 1 air to coolant ratio, there is not enough air passing through the radiator core to transmit the heat.
shroud the radiator fan and increase the fan blade count, also , make sure your lower radiator hose is not collapsing under suction load
hope this helps
is it a verticle core or cross flow? using a garden hose with the hoses off should tell you if its clogged if it doest back up with full volume from the hose, its probably fine. i had the exact same thing going on with my duster. one day i drove it for 3 hrs on the highway in the dead of summer and all of a sudden the temp started climbing at night while it was cooler. made no sense to me. that black funk sitting at the bottom of the block would start to loosen i guess with the higher flow of water at highway speed it would then restrict the flow in the rad enough to make the temp creep up yet would idle or low speed drive, with no issues. i did the panty hose trick on the upper hose for a while it sure did catch a ton of crap.
Thanks Bill.they dont get enough air on the radiator
you will notice that your problem becomes worse after a highway cruise and then slow/stop and go traffic, the temp guage keeps getting higher with slower speed
with a 50 to 1 air to coolant ratio, there is not enough air passing through the radiator core to transmit the heat.
shroud the radiator fan and increase the fan blade count, also , make sure your lower radiator hose is not collapsing under suction load
hope this helps
I tried telling him this by asking if he still had that factory pos fan, which he does....
but no reply.
people skip the most obvious sht sometimes, I mean..a 4 bladed fan???? come on????
and no shroud???
x2people skip the most obvious sht sometimes, I mean..a 4 bladed fan???? come on????
and no shroud???
Ma Mopar engineered enough air gaps in the front of the car to adequately channel enough air for cooling through the radiator- and nothing has been changed about that.
Ma also designed and installed "just enough" radiator, shroud, fan, pump, etc. into the cooling system to make it reliably cool in all seasons and driving conditions. Me, I have seen my bone stocker get hot sitting still in traffic with the A/C on, so I modified it to turn off the compressor while keeping the fan working inside. . .I never had it get hot on the freeway unless I blew a hose or something. That one was a smallblock v-8. The only other things I did over the years was a flexfan and took off the shroud- it was busted anyway.
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being a pilot , you have obviously seen over heating due to air 'stall' in the engine compartment, all this air collected must go somewhere, usually under the car and out the fenderwells, make sure the air can cleanly remove itself after it collects the heat from the engine compartment
You spoke of a flooding condition on hot starts, that may mean you have some methenal in your fuel and its boiling in the carb with the engine off and high under hood temps
An electric fan wired to run with the thermo switch on and the key off can be a good addition to clear up your problem
i always wondered about using something like evaporust in a cooling system, then a guy on another site brought it up, he said flush the system till its pretty clean, drain it, put 2 gallons of evapo rust in, run it till it gets warm, let it sit a day or 2. drain the system collecting the evaporust, then pour it through a filert cloth to catch the particles and you can reuse the evaporust. im not sure if he actually did it, but it would probably bebest to do it with no thermostat and no cap. you can buy it by the gallons or 5 gallons under other names. similar product. non toxic and only attacks rust. doesnt harm paint, other metals or rubber and plastic. so they say.
After you seen the black "gunk" in the cooling system, you should have done the right thing and rebuild it. Stop putting a band-ade on it.
Not the TDC mark- my calculations make the timing all of 2 degrees different- and advanced- from the original slot.
Where and how many freeze plugs? Two big ones on the driver's side. . .any between the back of the block and the tranny?
Thanks Redfish.