Thanks for the offer, but actually the fenders are not too bad. A couple small rust spots, but nothing compared to other areas...
Cinnamon 75 Duster \
- Thread starter zkx14
- Start date
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Cool,
When I seen the pic of the inner fenders where they bolt on I assumed the outers were rough.
Keep up the good work.
When I seen the pic of the inner fenders where they bolt on I assumed the outers were rough.
Keep up the good work.
I would have liked to have my belts ordered ahead of time, but could not find any definite numbers. Unless I missed it, it does not seem to be in the service manual. I guess there are just too many combinations.
I knew the old ones were tight when I removed them, so did not want the same and had not paid attention to how much bigger I needed. Nobody seams to stock v-belts much since all the new stuff is serpentine. So, you can't just go look at a rack of belts and grab the next size up or down anymore. Every place I looked online had multiple possibilities and were not very clear which was for what. So, had to wait till it was back together and figure it out before I could order. Then I had to teach the Autozone guy what the belt numbers meant so he could tell me what was available -LOL. Anyway, for future reference if you have a slant six with this setup ( 1975 ) - these sizes will get you near the middle of the adjustment ranges with everything tightened. Air conditioning 17555, Power Steering 15400 and Alternator 15570.
![IMG_0501[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/img_0501-1-jpg.1714942353/ "IMG_0501[1].jpg")
![IMG_0497[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/img_0497-1-jpg.1714942354/ "IMG_0497[1].jpg")
![IMG_0490[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/img_0490-1-jpg.1714942355/ "IMG_0490[1].jpg")
I knew the old ones were tight when I removed them, so did not want the same and had not paid attention to how much bigger I needed. Nobody seams to stock v-belts much since all the new stuff is serpentine. So, you can't just go look at a rack of belts and grab the next size up or down anymore. Every place I looked online had multiple possibilities and were not very clear which was for what. So, had to wait till it was back together and figure it out before I could order. Then I had to teach the Autozone guy what the belt numbers meant so he could tell me what was available -LOL. Anyway, for future reference if you have a slant six with this setup ( 1975 ) - these sizes will get you near the middle of the adjustment ranges with everything tightened. Air conditioning 17555, Power Steering 15400 and Alternator 15570.
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Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Good deal! You school those Auto Zone punks. (They probably drive rice rocket buzz bombs anyway...)
It was a nice day to hang the exhaust... Well it was a nice day and I did hang the exhaust, but I'm not going to try to convince anyone that there is anything nice about hanging exhaust laying on your back. At least I had concrete for this one. I have done much worse.
I re-used the front pipe and cat from mine. The muffler and tailpipe were slightly used from another car. Same car I got the dash out of. The car was still in use, and pipes looked almost new. Good running 4 door valient that got hit and needed a quarter, but the guy bailed out when he found out what the body shop wanted for the work. It had just arrived at the salvage yard and was parked near the entrance, so was fairly easy to get to everything.
I cut the pipe just ahead of the muffler (no cat and front pipe was a bit rough) I was able to remove the stub and use a pipe expander so my pipe fit in nicely. painted everything with the VHT flameproof aluminum that I used on the manifold.
I re-used the front pipe and cat from mine. The muffler and tailpipe were slightly used from another car. Same car I got the dash out of. The car was still in use, and pipes looked almost new. Good running 4 door valient that got hit and needed a quarter, but the guy bailed out when he found out what the body shop wanted for the work. It had just arrived at the salvage yard and was parked near the entrance, so was fairly easy to get to everything.
I cut the pipe just ahead of the muffler (no cat and front pipe was a bit rough) I was able to remove the stub and use a pipe expander so my pipe fit in nicely. painted everything with the VHT flameproof aluminum that I used on the manifold.
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It runs!
Filled all the fluids yesterday. Put 1 gallon in the trans to start (topped it off in neutral after I got it running). Used DexIII at recommendation of my trans shop guy. Filled the radiator. Put 2 qts of oil in the fill hole and 2 in the breather hole. saved one to prime the pump. Watched it for leaks overnight.
Had a few drips at the water pump, which went away with a slight repositioning and tightning 2 clamps. My overflow also has a slight leak. Otherwise all good.
I had previously primed/flushed the fuel line by blowing air in the vent line to pressurize the tank - letting some run into a can just before I attached the connecting hose to the pump. Prefilled the carb bowl (through the little plate on top). Poured oil in the hole under the filter to prime the oil pump. Had oil and fuel right away when I turned it over, but no spark.
After messing with it for a few minutes I got a backfire through the carb. I did have a problem with the plug wires not seating right in the cap at first. But my real problem was the distributer was 180 off. Once I corrected that it started right up an ran pretty good. I adjusted the timing and fuel by ear to get it a little better. I did check trans in all gears. Just moved it fwd and back a few feet so far. Checked for start in Park and N (and nowhere else) Ran it for a good 20 min or so. Just enough to start baking fresh paint. Fumes were getting a bit nasty so decided that was enough for today.
It's been years since I properly tuned an engine, so need to 'study up' and get a timing light (mine disappeared some time ago). Will also need to adjust valves with it hot. Not really in any rush for that stuff at this point. More interested in getting as much as possible together before winter.
Filled all the fluids yesterday. Put 1 gallon in the trans to start (topped it off in neutral after I got it running). Used DexIII at recommendation of my trans shop guy. Filled the radiator. Put 2 qts of oil in the fill hole and 2 in the breather hole. saved one to prime the pump. Watched it for leaks overnight.
Had a few drips at the water pump, which went away with a slight repositioning and tightning 2 clamps. My overflow also has a slight leak. Otherwise all good.
I had previously primed/flushed the fuel line by blowing air in the vent line to pressurize the tank - letting some run into a can just before I attached the connecting hose to the pump. Prefilled the carb bowl (through the little plate on top). Poured oil in the hole under the filter to prime the oil pump. Had oil and fuel right away when I turned it over, but no spark.
After messing with it for a few minutes I got a backfire through the carb. I did have a problem with the plug wires not seating right in the cap at first. But my real problem was the distributer was 180 off. Once I corrected that it started right up an ran pretty good. I adjusted the timing and fuel by ear to get it a little better. I did check trans in all gears. Just moved it fwd and back a few feet so far. Checked for start in Park and N (and nowhere else) Ran it for a good 20 min or so. Just enough to start baking fresh paint. Fumes were getting a bit nasty so decided that was enough for today.
It's been years since I properly tuned an engine, so need to 'study up' and get a timing light (mine disappeared some time ago). Will also need to adjust valves with it hot. Not really in any rush for that stuff at this point. More interested in getting as much as possible together before winter.
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amoparacer
Well-Known Member
Very nice work. i picked up a 76 Feather Duster yesterday /6 with 4sp OD glad it has only one small rust spot on drivers fender. Your a real champ most cars this bad get crushed. Some one above ask about hobart welders just got a 210 it is 110 or 220 I love it found on line from Blaines farm supply was 810 delivered.
Thanks, At least mine was assembled when I started. I've seen plenty on here that looked like they started with a truckload of parts and replaced more metal than they saved, Lol. Good find on the Feather Duster
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Great work! Congrats on getting it up & running!
I almost did the vinyl top today. I had done some prep at the back edge a couple weeks ago where it rusted under the canopy moulding. Cleaned up and painted it back to the window. So, today the sun was out and the metal was warming up nicely. I sanded it and taped the edges. Found the center of both roof and material. Was probably 15 minutes away from spraying glue and the sun went behind the clouds not to be seen again,and the temp dropped like a rock. Maybe try again next week.
I did spend some time in the last couple days checking wiring. I will need some bulbs yet, but looks like all the body light circuits are good. Checked headlights, turn, reverse and brakes. Verified that the circuits to prop valve and e-brake are good.
I did spend some time in the last couple days checking wiring. I will need some bulbs yet, but looks like all the body light circuits are good. Checked headlights, turn, reverse and brakes. Verified that the circuits to prop valve and e-brake are good.
I got the vinyl on. Went pretty well for another first time job. it does have a few marks where the hardest creases were. I think from rubbing them out I roughed up the surface slightly. Will try to get it as clean as possible and get some kind of sealer on those spots. I did get 70 plus day and a good bit of direct sun so the metal was nice and toasty before I started. The gutters would have been a lot easier if it had been 10-15 degrees warmer.
I put the front glass in since I this pic, but still have leaks on bottom. Initially just laid butyl caulk rope in the flange before I set the gasket in. Thought it was pressed in good, but somehow water is getting through. It is getting by the metal, glass is not leaking. I tried forcing windowweld sealant down by the gasket today with caulk gun and It is better, but I think I need to get more under where the clips are, If I cant get it sealed soon, I will pull it and that lower part of the seal will be floating in goo before it goes back together...
I put the front glass in since I this pic, but still have leaks on bottom. Initially just laid butyl caulk rope in the flange before I set the gasket in. Thought it was pressed in good, but somehow water is getting through. It is getting by the metal, glass is not leaking. I tried forcing windowweld sealant down by the gasket today with caulk gun and It is better, but I think I need to get more under where the clips are, If I cant get it sealed soon, I will pull it and that lower part of the seal will be floating in goo before it goes back together...
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I've come to accept that rust is just part of the job on the old Duster, but this is rediculous. I tried to use the parking brake on the Magnum last week and got NOTHING. I hardly ever use it, so I couldnt imagine what was wrong. I checked the cable- looked fine, moved freely. So I searched online a little and it seams this is actually fairly common. They rust so bad the linings fall off! Opened it up and sure enough that's what it was.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Um, that sucks.
I ended up pulling the glass back out. (FYI - I feel this was entirely a sealant problem, gasket is Precision brand from Dantes and fit very well). First pic is from the first time putting glass in. Had to mask everything a second time- not taking any chances with the new vinyl. I left the gasket on the pinchweld at the top and sides. The butyl rope seamed to adhere well where it was forced in tight. The bottom was a different story. It stuck to the metal OK, but there was very little adhesion to the rubber. I removed the rope caulk from there and cleaned that and the inside where the glass goes really well with laquer thinner. I then layed a really heavy bead of butyl liquid caulk from tube (NAPA) in the lower 'shelf'. Just enough that I could see it ooze up the front and under the clips when I pressed it in place. Then set the glass into the bottom of the seal and used plastic HF trim tools to pull (not pry) the gasket over the glass. this worked really good. Note - plastic was a little sharp on the edges, so went over with sandpaper to round so they didnt grab the rubber. A little windex helps to lube it. Since the sun was heading down and it was getting cold at that point, I did not seal the glass right away, but put the zip strips in to make sure it had even pressure for the caulk to set up overnight.
Next day butyl was still soft, so dressed that up a bit so it would not interfere with the trim Then I dried the area out good at the glass edges using rags and compressed air. What worked best was blowing from inside at bottom corners where all the windex settled. Once good and dry- Started at bottom with window-weld urethane and put a small bead under in seal so it squeezed a little out by glass. After zipping bottom and putting the keeper rope around, I scooped off as much excess as possible and cleaned the rest with laquer thinner.
Had rain the following night and I saw a little water inside. So I got out the hose and blasted it. Looks like most of it was still draining from the firewall insulation. I did find one leak. it is a really small drip making it through the shaft of the right wiper pivot. Have seen threads about adding zerks and greasing those, so will probably do that. Just wish I would have known that before puting the dash together....
Next day butyl was still soft, so dressed that up a bit so it would not interfere with the trim Then I dried the area out good at the glass edges using rags and compressed air. What worked best was blowing from inside at bottom corners where all the windex settled. Once good and dry- Started at bottom with window-weld urethane and put a small bead under in seal so it squeezed a little out by glass. After zipping bottom and putting the keeper rope around, I scooped off as much excess as possible and cleaned the rest with laquer thinner.
Had rain the following night and I saw a little water inside. So I got out the hose and blasted it. Looks like most of it was still draining from the firewall insulation. I did find one leak. it is a really small drip making it through the shaft of the right wiper pivot. Have seen threads about adding zerks and greasing those, so will probably do that. Just wish I would have known that before puting the dash together....
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How hard of a job is the vynal top, I been tempted to put one back on my duster.
Also I have found if you set the e-brake every day it will work fine, it is when you dont use them they seize up.
Also I have found if you set the e-brake every day it will work fine, it is when you dont use them they seize up.
Vinyl was not bad at all. Now that's just a canopy. I'm sure the ones that go down the side in back are more difficult and the ones that go all the way behind rear glass must be a real pain. I just centered it up. Determined how far back I needed for seams on pillars to land where I wanted them. I sprayed both surfaces with 3M super trim. started with strip down center and worked side-to-side It only took 1 can of spray. Just made it, so would need 2 for a full top. Hardest part was the gutters. Like I mentioned that would have been a lot easier on a HOT day.
Are you referring to the Duster e-brake? No problem with it. That was the 2005 Magnum. Was not siezed, pedal went right to the floor...
Worked on the left fender today. Had a couple pinholes around the side light and in the lower section near the rocker that turned out to be small rot spots. Started by patching lower (not pictured). turned out OK, but patch 'sunk' a little over the area with inner brace so can't get behind it to push it closer, but it's solid now. Will just take a little more filler than I'd like. I have no delusions of doing zero-filler bodywork, but trying to keep to an 8th inch or so max. This was my first real try at butt welding. Here's the progression of the sidelight patch. Checked fit and marker sits nice and flat, will just need a thin coat of glaze. Too cold to do any fill work now. Will do that in spring.
Looks fantastic!
You should be proud
You should be proud
amoparacer
Well-Known Member
Couldn't tell where on car you were working now I see side marker holes. I bought these cool clamp to do the butt welds you did a great job.
Did the hot valve adjustment today.
Slant Six Forum, :: View topic - What type wrench for valve lash?
Hardest part of the job was getting the cover off and on. With the AC and misc stuff crossing over and around it, its pinned in pretty good. Scarred my nice new paint already. But what I really wanted to show in that pic is the screw/bolt. They are black chrome I got at True Value. About $30 for 8 screws and washers, so not cheap. Slightly more than regular chrome, but I liked them better. Really just wanted something that wouldn't rust, but the stainless ones I found were cut very crudely and did not look nice at all.
Oiling looked great - nice steady wetting at both valve and pushrod. Adjustments were pretty close from setting cold, but some looser than others. Worked to get them all near equal tension on feeler gauges. Still need to get a timing light so I can do the rest of the tune-up.
Popped the hood insulation and front seal on. I cleaned up the back one, but a couple of the stapled in clips are broke, so need to get them.
Also put the latch brace in front of radiator back on. Had to jack up the radiator to get the bottom bolts in from behind - oops.
Slant Six Forum, :: View topic - What type wrench for valve lash?
Hardest part of the job was getting the cover off and on. With the AC and misc stuff crossing over and around it, its pinned in pretty good. Scarred my nice new paint already. But what I really wanted to show in that pic is the screw/bolt. They are black chrome I got at True Value. About $30 for 8 screws and washers, so not cheap. Slightly more than regular chrome, but I liked them better. Really just wanted something that wouldn't rust, but the stainless ones I found were cut very crudely and did not look nice at all.
Oiling looked great - nice steady wetting at both valve and pushrod. Adjustments were pretty close from setting cold, but some looser than others. Worked to get them all near equal tension on feeler gauges. Still need to get a timing light so I can do the rest of the tune-up.
Popped the hood insulation and front seal on. I cleaned up the back one, but a couple of the stapled in clips are broke, so need to get them.
Also put the latch brace in front of radiator back on. Had to jack up the radiator to get the bottom bolts in from behind - oops.
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I got a bunch of those, but have never taken the time to get them out and use them. Probably be good for larger panels. I used magnets to hold this patch in place till I tacked it.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Testor's sells packages of tiny detail brushes for doing models. They work very well on touching up scratches like that. Simply spray some paint in a small container and dab it on. They are re-usable too.
Yep - you got it. Already have the tiny brushes and that's prolly what I'll be doin.... at least temporary. At some point I may respray and use extreme care puting it back on.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Why bother? You'll scratch it again at the next valve adjustment. Touch it up & go.
We had a couple more heavy rains and I was still getting water on the passenger floor. I was fairly certain the windshield was tight, and it was too much to be coming from the wiper shaft. I had checked the cowl several times before putting the heater box back in, but I missed something. An old repair that I did has come back to haunt me. I had patched the firewall just below the cowl near the air hole. I left a small part of the original metal under it, but never got sealer up between them. I created a water pocket. As water has a way of doing, It found a way out... I have it opened up pretty good now, so will try to dry it out good with a heat gun and seal from underneath. If it comes back after that I am considering making an access hole in the front of the cowl. Thinking I'll run a 2.5 to 3 inch holesaw in it. I figured I'd do a plug like the older A's. I'll have to see what I find that's decent looking.
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