These boards remind me of something designed right after WWII. That is, they are pretty basic.
I would feel VERY comfortable simply soldering jumpers from one part of the trace to another.
Just scrape the coating off the board on the trace you need to repair, get it good and clean, and use good soldering technique, IE ENOUGH heat, but not TOO much, and use good quality solder meant for electrical/ electronic work. Radio Shack solder is "OK."
So far as the connectors, mine were so bad I abandoned them, and soldered pigtails on those traces, brought them out, and used "Molex" style connectors I bought at RadShack
Dont forget to take a GOOD look at your instrument limiter mount, unless you have a Rally dash. On mine, the spring fingers forming the "socket" on the board were not making contact WITH THE board. SO I had to jumper across from the fingers to the board
The photo below is not my board, this shows someone's homemade electronic replacement for the IVR But this shows the slots that form the "socket" and the brass fingers. These MUST make good contact (soldered) to the PC board
(This person's method, by the way is poor. He soldered the home made circuit to the brass fingers, which ARE a problem area. He SHOULD have just soldered the connections to the PC board right next to the connector
There is no need for all that wire, either. Follow the traces
The black wire off the little regulator is ground. Both the screws (follow the trace) are ground, and he could have either used a ring connector at the top screw, or soldered the wire near the screw
The blue wire actually goes to the harness connector pin at far right in the photo. Could have simply soldered it near there
And the red wire blows right past the gauge stud that it electrically connects to!!
