9secRR
Well-Known Member
how many of you racers have a clean neutral valve body? what is the benefit? easier on the trans and engine shifting to neutral after the pass?
clean neutral?
- Thread starter 9secRR
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I much prefer a clean neutral. I’m not a fan of using the engine as a brake.
9secRR
Well-Known Member
where did you get the valve body from? i've looked at CRT briefly
Clean N allows the engine to come down to an idle right after the finish line. Kinda like what you can do with a 4 speed. Pop it into neutral and coast. Saves the engine and the transmission from added wear.
I would think John would have one....
I'm running a CRT 55X1&2CN. Its a reverse manual with a brake and clean neutral. I really like it. It does feel a little weird pulling it past 3rd but nothing when you get used to it. It is a bit of an investment. I had to buy a PPP shifter for it to work. There may be others that work with it but I'm not sure. My understanding is it's easier on the rotating assembly.
MMissile
Well-Known Member
Griner and PROTRANS.
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Duster346
Chris Andrews
Clean neutral valve bodies are for folks who have aluminum rods as to not decelerate down on the rod.
There are several things that should be done with the transmission when going this route. If you have OEM powder forged drums, you definitely do not want to neutralize your transmission at speed.
Certain 3rd gear piston return springs can also collapse and break apart. We offer chrome return springs for clean neutral applications.
There are several things that should be done with the transmission when going this route. If you have OEM powder forged drums, you definitely do not want to neutralize your transmission at speed.
Certain 3rd gear piston return springs can also collapse and break apart. We offer chrome return springs for clean neutral applications.
9secRR
Well-Known Member
thanks for the part #. i have a PPP shifter in the car now but would have to buy a new one.
i do run aluminum rods, have for years. so far i haven't had any problems without a clean neutral.
i will take a look at ProTrans and A&A
9secRR
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I will check that out.
I ran aluminum rods for year too. I still would today if I was racing.
Regardless of rod materiel I don’t care to slow the car down using the engine as a brake. Probably because I always run a stick I always push in the clutch while getting on the binders or get it neutral.
I won’t use a RVB without a clean neutral because there is no way to go from high gear to neutral without going back through 2 and 1 to get there. With a conventional shift pattern I go right to neutral at the end of a run.
I wish my Griner RMVB had a clean neutral. Concern I have is if you break something in the engine or trans that locks up either one you have no way to stop from locking up the wheels (I run a spool). And that means around you go and maybe onto the roof. Crosses my mind too much!!
That’s another reason for a clean neutral. There’s certainly more than one reason as shown in this thread.
You have to be careful of nomenclature. Typically a “clean neutral” VB has a neutral position after 3rd which dumps all hydraulic pressure to bands and clutches. Could be a bad thing in certain situations where the direct drum could over speed at 2.2x engine rpm.
On the other hand, Steve Griner coined the name “safety neutral”. Same neutral after third and dumps all hydraulic pressure to bands and clutches EXCEPT the direct drum clutches. This keeps the direct drum from over speeding. Must keep engine running. More complicated to build but may be worth it to some racers.
Other manufacturers may make a clean neutral that does a similar function but don’t call it a safety neutral. You would have to contact manufacturer to determine functionality.
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
I don't have a clean natural, but i never let the engine go to a hard decel, i have my foot on throttle just a little, and sometimes some brake and throttle at the same time, just to take the load off the engine. I would like to have a clean natural with alum rods.
9secRR
Well-Known Member
emailed Cope and Protrans, see what they say when they email back. A&A website does not have an email address. has anyone emailed them before? also emailed PPP to see if i can get new side plates for my shifter instead of buying a new shifter.
Yes but never had a return call. 4 times and gave up. Called by phone and was told to call back after 4 their time. Never answered the phone....
But I like their products and bought many.
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9secRR
Well-Known Member
ok thanks for the warning lol i'll try calling and see what happens
Duster346
Chris Andrews
They have good products. Trust me, I know after being a dealer for them for 25 years. They were also too busy to sell me their products in the 25th year. The first 24 years went great. Launched my web store a few years back and could have sold them a fair amount of products, but they could not provide them in a timely fashion.
We now have our own line of products and we will keep adding to our product line as time goes on.
I can give you a recommendation for who to talk to, @Duster346
9secRR
Well-Known Member
Crappy pics but this is a A&A clean neutral TB valve body I just received. Customer service was excellent, did it through emails. Emailed me back right away and answered questions that probably sounded stupid lol.
Just waiting on the new clean neutral PPP shifter to show up. Once that gets here, it’s install time. PPP has to be one of the best companies to deal with. Excellent people.
Just waiting on the new clean neutral PPP shifter to show up. Once that gets here, it’s install time. PPP has to be one of the best companies to deal with. Excellent people.
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