Clearance between header and ground ???? 1971 A Body

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Michael Harrington

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I have a brand new garage. Amish built with expensive upgrades for hurricane protection to satisfy township inspector. The floor of my 14x36 is 12" (1 foot) from the ground. I must build a ramp and plan to do so with pressure treated lumber. My 71 Demon is stored in a farmers pole barn 12 miles away. Can anyone tell me the ground clearance of their A bodies with a small block and the typical low hanging headers? I also need the clearance of an A Body with Doug Thorley or TTI Headers. With the ground clearance numbers- wheel base measurement and height of floor I can calculate the length of my ramp.

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Im well aware that my garage construction draws ire- draws downright nasty negativity from some. I have heard it all on moparts. So I ask- if possible- that the comments remain insult free of the building.
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I think the building is nice but for it to hold up in a hurricane it should have rafter ties. Where I live (on the coast) the vertical studs must have metal straps tying the studs to the floor and the top of the studs should be tied to the rafters. Even the piers on which the buildings sits must have metal ties (to the foundation) to hold the building down during a hurricane. Maybe your regulations are different?? Pics of your car would be nice!!! Treblig
 
No insults from me, that's a very nice garage I wish I had one. Me, my opinion would order out for a truck load of CA6 gravel dump it in front of the door and start to spread it out. I would estimate about 10 to 12 foot out from the door. Then rent or borrow a compactor to work over the ramp. Then if you have any gravel left, use around the garage's foundation to make it look nice. I cannot tell for sure from the picture you may want to nail boards in between the floor joists to close off the open area under the floor?
If you MIGHT think about going concrete, let “them” worry about it........
 
suspecting the joists are open for breath ability? which opens to varmints. is that a concrete pad below? or just a footing? gravel will be a problem, because of the voids it will fall into the cavities, and you don't want moisture against your joists/rim. I'm sure you are looking for the measurements to clear the peak at entry? one idea that will solve that problem will be to use cmu blocks in front (they can be filled with gravel from the top, or tied together like hay bales and filled with grout/concrete), but I would also take them out 3/4 feet on the sides, that way you have the 'peak' from that point. since it's now gravel at that point, if you do drag, you rake a little and no damage to the exhaust. a better picture of the entry would help. and, what material were you thinking of building the ramp?
 
Treblig said:
Rafter ties refers to the metal straps that tie the studs to the rafters. Everything should be tied together so that nothing can get ripped away during high winds. At least they call them rafters ties where I live?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/USP-6-1-2-...MIl5m4moPP3QIVBgtpCh15LQXUEAQYAyABEgLHtvD_BwE
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don't know codes where he lives, but as you can see, those go on the outside before sheathing. but, you are correct, you can add 'hurricane' clips from the inside if needed. don't know how the building is held to the foundation/footing, but if it's just sitting on a pad the whole building will roll away (intact) with a good enough wind. need better pictures to see what is there.
 
73 Duster, 408, TTI's.

About 5 1/4" below the collector flange, which is the lowest point of the exhaust.

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Not sure why everyone is discussing the construction of the building when he asked about header ground clearance. Gotta love internet forums...

To the OP, next time just ask what kind of ground clearance folks have with whatever headers you're interested in so folks don't get sidetracked. Honestly though, it's kind of a loaded question with many of variables (front and rear tire size, ride height, engine location, etc). You're going to get answers all over the map based on those variable. My 68 Dart with Dougs headers has about 6" of ground clearance with 215/65/15s up front, 275/60/15s in back and stock-ish ride height- maybe raised an inch or so.

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Your concerned about the headers hitting the ramp/floor at it's apex. So obviously the longer the ramp the less obtrusive the angle when the headers pass over it. As a quick fix you could progressively block on top of the ramp where it intersects the floor in the tire path. Start out with a single flat 2x6x3' then double it for the next 3' as you reach the top of the ramp. Reverse the layout going into the shed dropping back down to the decking. 2-2x6 would give you an extra 3" going over the apex, that combined with the actual ground height of the headers should offer plenty of clearance..
 
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mopowers said:
Not sure why everyone is discussing the construction of the building when he asked about header ground clearance. Gotta love internet forums...

To the OP, next time just ask what kind of ground clearance folks have with whatever headers you're interested in so folks don't get sidetracked. Honestly though, it's kind of a loaded question with many of variables (front and rear tire size, ride height, engine location, etc). You're going to get answers all over the map based on those variable. My 68 Dart with Dougs headers has about 6" of ground clearance with 215/65/15s up front, 275/60/15s in back and stock-ish ride height- maybe raised an inch or so.

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hahaha, yes, sometimes things go awry with opinions and ideas, agreed. but sometimes you might use one of those ideas, or even part of one. I love getting input, and ask for it. I have 2 friends that I like to put ideas to (as they do with me), and usually we think tank it back and forth and come up with some great end products. why? because I listened with an open mind, and appreciate their experience, ideas, and input. you are right on two counts, off track (no harm I hope), and there are many variables. can't speak for the others, but I can start a conversation about flowers, and end up talking about fishing. it's just bs'ing. and if someone doesn't like my idea (or vise versa), no big deal. life's pretty boring when you color within the lines. as for me, I'll try to stay on track so I don't offend.......oh look, a shiny thing :) cheers!
 
69FBCuda said:
Your concerned about the headers hitting the ramp/floor at it's apex. So obviously the longer the ramp the less obtrusive the angle when the headers pass over it. As a quick fix you could progressively block on top of the ramp where it intersects the floor in the tire path. Start out with a single flat 2x6x3' then double it for the next 3' as you reach the top of the ramp. Reverse the layout going into the shed dropping back down to the decking. 2-2x6 would give you an extra 3" going over the apex, that combined with the actual ground height of the headers should offer plenty of clearance..
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that's thinking outside of the box, I like it! he might have to leave the boards depending on how much room in front, and wheelbase/board length. but if it's parked, now worries, right? and, you can get under the car easier if needed.
 
An arch would solve that. And ramps instead of a whole approach would be less likely as well.
 
Michael Harrington said:
I have a brand new garage. Amish built with expensive upgrades for hurricane protection to satisfy township inspector. The floor of my 14x36 is 12" (1 foot) from the ground. I must build a ramp and plan to do so with pressure treated lumber. My 71 Demon is stored in a farmers pole barn 12 miles away. Can anyone tell me the ground clearance of their A bodies with a small block and the typical low hanging headers? I also need the clearance of an A Body with Doug Thorley or TTI Headers. With the ground clearance numbers- wheel base measurement and height of floor I can calculate the length of my ramp.

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I like the garage. It looks like 16in stud centers. If you don't mind my asking, how much are we talking about for one like that?
 
Ok. Thanks for the clearance measurement. Keep in mind Im not a builder and my terminology may be incorrect.But here are the specs on the garage. Built indoors by the Amish in Fremont MI by Mast Mini Barns. 14' wide 36' long. Studs and rafters 16" apart. My township is strict. Thickened Slab is 18" thick along the 8" outer perimeter. 6" sticks out of the ground and 12" in the ground at the outer perimeter.. The center of this slab is 6" thick. I had steel bars and mesh positioned thru out. 4"x4"s run the length of the building. To meet code I had to install (I chose) Simpson Strong Ties. Special concrete bolts. I bolted the outer most 4x4s to the concrete with 8" Simpson bolts. Each bolt penetrated 4.75" into the slab with placement being: A bolt 12" from either building end and then every 6' thereafter. Siding and roofing had to match my house. Ridge vent runs entire length of roof. Header above the gable end Trac Rite 9x7 roll up door consists of three 2"x10s". I was told by the inspector to install bracket supports on each rafter. To my surprise the builders installed Fasten Master Timberlock rafter ties. These are 6" bolts that with their install tool ties the stud, the top plates and the rafters together. These bolts met code and I was not required to install the metal brackets. I had 2 windows installed and an extra large entry door. Total for the building- delivered and set on my slab was $11,300. Buick and any car for that matter has not been in building. I cannot build my ramp yet. (I plan on using pressure treated lumber and store bought concrete blocks in the ground). I herniated 2 discs in my Lower back 3 weeks after the garage was delivered so I am out of the fight awaiting spinal surgery. I have installed critter wire to close off the underneath to critters. I had 2 estimates from 2 builders for a site built garage and both estimates exceeded $20,000. Plus they are very busy and other people who hired to have a garage built were upset with the delays. So due to my injury the ramp and electrical will be next year when the weather becomes nice enough. In the mean time I have run a cord out there and set up table and chairs. I stream podcast from my phone thru a nice stereo and relax with a coffee honey and whiskey mixture.
 
No insults here either. That looks nice man I wish I had something that nice I just had a gravel floored car port! Hope your headers will work ok and clear!
 
Michael Harrington said:
Ok. Thanks for the clearance measurement. Keep in mind Im not a builder and my terminology may be incorrect.But here are the specs on the garage. Built indoors by the Amish in Fremont MI by Mast Mini Barns. 14' wide 36' long. Studs and rafters 16" apart. My township is strict. Thickened Slab is 18" thick along the 8" outer perimeter. 6" sticks out of the ground and 12" in the ground at the outer perimeter.. The center of this slab is 6" thick. I had steel bars and mesh positioned thru out. 4"x4"s run the length of the building. To meet code I had to install (I chose) Simpson Strong Ties. Special concrete bolts. I bolted the outer most 4x4s to the concrete with 8" Simpson bolts. Each bolt penetrated 4.75" into the slab with placement being: A bolt 12" from either building end and then every 6' thereafter. Siding and roofing had to match my house. Ridge vent runs entire length of roof. Header above the gable end Trac Rite 9x7 roll up door consists of three 2"x10s". I was told by the inspector to install bracket supports on each rafter. To my surprise the builders installed Fasten Master Timberlock rafter ties. These are 6" bolts that with their install tool ties the stud, the top plates and the rafters together. These bolts met code and I was not required to install the metal brackets. I had 2 windows installed and an extra large entry door. Total for the building- delivered and set on my slab was $11,300. Buick and any car for that matter has not been in building. I cannot build my ramp yet. (I plan on using pressure treated lumber and store bought concrete blocks in the ground). I herniated 2 discs in my Lower back 3 weeks after the garage was delivered so I am out of the fight awaiting spinal surgery. I have installed critter wire to close off the underneath to critters. I had 2 estimates from 2 builders for a site built garage and both estimates exceeded $20,000. Plus they are very busy and other people who hired to have a garage built were upset with the delays. So due to my injury the ramp and electrical will be next year when the weather becomes nice enough. In the mean time I have run a cord out there and set up table and chairs. I stream podcast from my phone thru a nice stereo and relax with a coffee honey and whiskey mixture.
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very interesting. thanks for the details.
 
If you're happy with, who cares what others say. After all the cash is coming out of YOUR pocket and no one else's!
 
That's a nice garage, hey the Amish build some great stuff, and sturdy. Like others have said who's cares what others think it's not their and they are probably jealous lol
 
Nice shop!

Now, having just had 5 layer back surgery all can say is:

Get some help getting everything you need inside moved, get a chair and a few more of your coffee/honey and whiskey mixtures and relax. Get some graph paper and plan your lighting and layout. You will be on light-duty for a while!

Good luck!

Oh yeah, nice shop!
 
did that number include delivery from fremont?
thats a bit of a drive, but the pizza at spankies is worth it
 
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