clutch not disengaging..........argh.........

-
ValiantOne

ValiantOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
1,117
Reaction score
210
Location
West "By God" Virginia
Hey All,

At long last, I fired up my car for the first time since last October when I pulled, well everthing, to do a rear end, 4 speed, suspension, K member, upgrade.

The engine is running very nicely, but probs with the trans. Or more specifically the clutch.

I am using an 833 OD. It has a clutch pedal set up that I used previously in my 67 Dart, new linkages, Z bar, fork all from Brewers. New flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing.

I adjusted the clutch for about 3/4 of an inch of freeplay at the top of the pedal. I've also tried an inch or more freeplay, and just about no freeplay. The clutch pedal feels like any other I've ever used. The linkages all move, the fork goes back and forth. But the clutch won't disengage.

After I start the car, if I push in the clutch and try to put the trans in gear it won't go into any of the forward speeds, it won't go into reverse either, but makes a grinding noise if I try. If i put it in gear and start the car, the rear wheels spin. If I push in the clutch and hit the brakes it loads up the engine and eventually stalls the engine.

I'm done for the day today, but I was thinking next to pull the inspection cover off and see what I can see.

You guys have any thoughts, theories or had this happen to you?

Thanks for any wisdom.

CE
 
There are all kinds of "little gotchas" but most of them are !!doh!! simple once you find them

Clutch disc in backwards? (Some won't even fit that way)

Clutch disc or even pilot shaft can be stuck in crank / flywheel, rust, etc

You sure the crank is deep enough and that the pilot shaft is not bottoming?

Otherwise, get under there and look, that's the only way!!

With a helper to depress the clutch you should be able to get a feeler in between the disc and pp/ flywheel. I don't remember offhand, .050" ?

There's bent/ broken linkage, I've had one of the levers "crack" the Z tube and bend. Take a look at your linkage. "generally" leverage of this type, for maximum travel, "wants" the pushrod and lever to be at 90 to each other at mid travel.
 
Oh I pray it isn't the the first two things you suggested!

I'm positive the pilot shaft isn't bottoming in the crank. I did all the measuring on that when I test fit and installed the pilot bearing.

Please be something simple!!!

Now that have been sitting in the A/C for a bit, I feel more inclined to go back out and work on it, but I don't have anyone to push the clutch for me!

So close, yet so far...................... Lol.

CE
 
Well, looks like the trans is definitely coming back out. I had a friend, who happens to be a very accomplished dealer mech, come over and look at this issue with me. The pressure plate is moving and plenty too. But the clutch disc still seeme stuck to the flywheel. I think the throw out bearing is making some noise too. It is brand new but one of those plastic body jobs.

Arrrgh!

One thing I noticed is that the T/O bearing is on kind of an angle in comparison to the bearing retainer sleeve. Once it hits the pressure plate arms it straightens itself out. Iguess that kind of makes sense as when there isnt any preßsure on it the bearing would have the same angle that the clutch fork/arm has. Does that make sense.

Man I am bummed out. I was on track to have this thing back on the road in June. Now it is looking like August at the minimum.

Ah well i just need to step back for a few days and collect myself.
 
One thing you might try before pulling.........has it been sitting? The disc might be glued / stuck to the flywheel. Try warming up the car, get it pointed somewhere, and then start it up in first gear. Once you get up RPM a little bit, push in the clutch, and give it some fuel. Sometimes the disk will break loose.
 
When I first started up my car the clutch acted very much the same except I could start it in gear and hold it still with the brake. My problem was a lack of grease in the pilot bearing and resevoir. The major problem is that you will have to pull the trans. Just double check everything before you re-assemble and you should be ok.
 
Well, I think I've found the problem. I got a new clutch set. The exact same part #'s and everything. The first one was from O'Riley and the second one from Advance Auto. They are EXACTLY the same, just different packaging. I mean even the same font on the etched part numbers and stuff.

I installed it today and the clutch will disengage now. There has to have been something wrong in the pressure plate set up. It is the only thing I can think of. Maybe it wasn't adjusted properly before they welded the nuts on the back?

Anyhow, seems to disengage now!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top