Clutch pedal does not return

[Mash340]

So it is a 1972 Dodge Demon 318 3 speed manual, everything is new in the z bar clutch is new. The only thing i am using from 1972 is the springs. Push the clutch in and it stays on the floor will not return to the up position but with help it comes up . Any Ideas will help thanks in advance

 

[TrailBeast]

So it is a 1972 Dodge Demon 318 3 speed manual, everything is new in the z bar clutch is new. The only thing i am using from 1972 is the springs. Push the clutch in and it stays on the floor will not return to the up position but with help it comes up . Any Ideas will help thanks in advance

Do you have the return spring on it?

 

[Frnknsteen]

Which pressure plate are you running? 3-finger or diaphragm? I know when I redid mine, I was told by Brewer's that you have to remove the "Over-Center" spring from the clutch pedal as the diaphragm pressure plate will not overcome it and bring the pedal up.

Also need to make sure the return spring is attached to the clutch fork as Trailbeast suggested.

 

[67Dart273]

I'm guessing this is a diaphragm and you are using the factory under-dash over-center spring? If so you need to remove it. There's a "trick" where you can depress the pedal, and jam between the coils with washers, then release the pedal and unbolt the bracket

 

[tonysrt]

You should have a return spring on the linkage at the bell housing. Also check that you're not over throwing the clutch, because the clutch fingers aid in returning pedal.

 

[72bluNblu]

I'm guessing this is a diaphragm and you are using the factory under-dash over-center spring? If so you need to remove it. There's a "trick" where you can depress the pedal, and jam between the coils with washers, then release the pedal and unbolt the bracket

Exactly!

Gotta remove the over center spring with a diaphragm style clutch.

 

[Mash340]

The spring for the clutch fork is still the factory 1972, the clutch is just a standard clutch no perfomance clutch. I did not completly set up the adjustment on the clutch left a little play as i read in another thread. Explain the diaphragm clutch (already got the answer from google) yes it is a diaphragm style clutch. so ya all are telling me to remove the heavy spring that is undr the dash on the pedal and see if this will do the trick???

 

[Mash340]

I just looked at the how to articals and ran across the washer artical and i was thinking it weak tired old springs thanks to all you guys for the input but when I get home in a couple of days crank the heat up in the garage as the polar vortex is rolling in northern minnesota real -40#s and no wind chill to go with that but will take and remove the spring and see then report back to you all and let you know if that did the job thanks again everybody.

 

[AJ/FormS]

The factory put that spring on there to help you hold the pedal down at stopsigns and such. It is calibrated to work with the factory B&B 3-finger clutch, which takes a goodly effort.
A diaphragm clutch works differently, and does not have enough power to overcome that spring, hence the recommendation to remove it. Be careful, she has a lotta power.
Don't lose it cuz if you ever go back to a 3-finger clutch, you will again need it.

 

[Daves69]

Push the clutch in and it stays on the floor will not return to the up position but with help it comes up

The over center springs works in both directions for the stock three finger setup. It assists your leg in depressing the clutch and returns the pedal to the top provided the clutch is adjusted properly. It relies on the stock pressure plate springs to get it over center so it can pull the pedal up. The fork spring helps a little in this but also helps hold the linkage taught.
The fork return spring (green arrow) stays regardless.
The over center spring (red arrow) is typically removed for a diaphragm clutch. The over center spring may be overcoming a this type of pressure plate and you'll need to remove it. Realize your pedal may not return to the top once the OC spring is out.

 

[Mash340]

Thanks for the in put and I should have paid more attention when I removed the old clutch. I would have got the same 3 finger style so no messing around
Realize your pedal may not return to the top once the OC spring is out. so what can I do to make sure the darn pedal comes back up?? I noticed on my wife dodge they must have done the same thing. a different spring is on it ??

 

[Frnknsteen]

Thanks for the in put and I should have paid more attention when I removed the old clutch. I would have got the same 3 finger style so no messing around
Realize your pedal may not return to the top once the OC spring is out. so what can I do to make sure the darn pedal comes back up?? I noticed on my wife dodge they must have done the same thing. a different spring is on it ??

When I did my clutch on the Barracuda, I went with the diaphragm style too. Wayne at Brewer's told me that if the pedal didn't come all the way back up from the clutch fork spring itself, he commonly gets a throttle return spring, or something like it with a long pull and mounts it on the clutch pedal to somewhere under the dash to help pull it back up into home position.

On mine, the spring on the clutch fork is bringing it back up fine and I didn't have to add one under the dash. May have to over time, but for now it is working fine.

 

[72bluNblu]

When I did my clutch on the Barracuda, I went with the diaphragm style too. Wayne at Brewer's told me that if the pedal didn't come all the way back up from the clutch fork spring itself, he commonly gets a throttle return spring, or something like it with a long pull and mounts it on the clutch pedal to somewhere under the dash to help pull it back up into home position.

On mine, the spring on the clutch fork is bringing it back up fine and I didn't have to add one under the dash. May have to over time, but for now it is working fine.

Totally agree, I’ve never had an issue with the pedal coming all the back up. The spring on the clutch fork has worked just fine for that.