I traded some stuff and got a clutch type sure grip for the dart. I bought new clutches for it, took it apart and put it back together.... everything seemed fine. In the car it was like having a spool. I replaced it with a cone type I went through and it worked great. Now I want to use it in my rat rod but want to make sure it is set up correctly before I install it, what is the best way to do that? I don’t want a spool. Is there a way to bench test it with a couple old axles? Different springs or clutch plates maybe? All I’ve ever worked on are the iron cone type, and I have had nothing but good luck with them. Thanks
Clutch sure grip
- Thread starter jas0162
- Start date
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Did you follow the correct stack procedure? It's likely that it's ok. They are usually very tight when they are new or rebuilt. That's the Dana Power Lock. It's the most aggressive limited slip unit there is and in a light car in good condition it's not uncommon to get some tire squeal around turns.
after new clutches are installed the sure grip needs a break-in . fill with oil and friction modifier go find a paved parking lot and do a bunch of figure eights both ways , it will loosen up once the oil gets spread thru it . there might be a little binding at first .
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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What I did was make a couple of tools from old axles; one to anchor the case in the vise; just a splined end from an old axle. From the other axle I cut off a foot or so, and on the cut end I welded a big nut.
With these two tools, I can now measure with a torque-wrench, exactly how tight the build ends up at.
With the CONE-TYPE, I first make sure the cones have more than .080 clearance in the "cups". I check this with short lengths of solder, dropped onto the highest points in the Cups, then drop the cone down on them, haul out the BFG and a block of wood; then giving the cones a couple of whacks. And finally measuring the squashed solder. The more clearance you have, the longer time you will have between rebuilds.. .080 seems to last many years..... if the case preload is set right.
Then I oil everything with whatever concoction I plan to use. And assemble it.
Then I drop one side onto the stub that is clamped in the vise. Then drop the other stub into the top, then measure the turning torque, NOT the break-away torque. Just crank as slow you can after breakaway, that still reads on the BEAM-type torque-wrench.
My results;
For a streeter with 295/50-15s,mine lol, 120ftlbs seems to be working just fine, with enough slip not squeal or slip the inside tire too badly on 90* turns in the city, Yet it never spins just one 295, at WOT.
At one time I cranked it up to 140 and that was spoolish.
At 100, I could feel her slip/bite on hard launches. I feel it would also slip with less-wide tires and so;
I recommend a minimum of 110, max of 130, for most street tires. I cannot speak to sticky tires.
To adjust the cone types; I first went to the local FORD dealer, cuz I know those parts guys and they knowchit. So I asked for some sidegear washers and the sold me a couple of bags with a couple of different thicknesses in the bag.
So I install one on each side, between the cone and the sidegear, and button it all up, to measure what I got. If I need a change I just add or subtract, or change the thickness, and keep trying until I get into the zone.
Lastly I install the ring-gear, set the backlash...... and you know the rest...
I only have one clutch type. I remember setting it up a lil looser because of the way it works;
But I don't recall the number. And of course, with a clutch-type, the clutches have to be pre-soaked over-night.
With these two tools, I can now measure with a torque-wrench, exactly how tight the build ends up at.
With the CONE-TYPE, I first make sure the cones have more than .080 clearance in the "cups". I check this with short lengths of solder, dropped onto the highest points in the Cups, then drop the cone down on them, haul out the BFG and a block of wood; then giving the cones a couple of whacks. And finally measuring the squashed solder. The more clearance you have, the longer time you will have between rebuilds.. .080 seems to last many years..... if the case preload is set right.
Then I oil everything with whatever concoction I plan to use. And assemble it.
Then I drop one side onto the stub that is clamped in the vise. Then drop the other stub into the top, then measure the turning torque, NOT the break-away torque. Just crank as slow you can after breakaway, that still reads on the BEAM-type torque-wrench.
My results;
For a streeter with 295/50-15s,mine lol, 120ftlbs seems to be working just fine, with enough slip not squeal or slip the inside tire too badly on 90* turns in the city, Yet it never spins just one 295, at WOT.
At one time I cranked it up to 140 and that was spoolish.
At 100, I could feel her slip/bite on hard launches. I feel it would also slip with less-wide tires and so;
I recommend a minimum of 110, max of 130, for most street tires. I cannot speak to sticky tires.
To adjust the cone types; I first went to the local FORD dealer, cuz I know those parts guys and they knowchit. So I asked for some sidegear washers and the sold me a couple of bags with a couple of different thicknesses in the bag.
So I install one on each side, between the cone and the sidegear, and button it all up, to measure what I got. If I need a change I just add or subtract, or change the thickness, and keep trying until I get into the zone.
Lastly I install the ring-gear, set the backlash...... and you know the rest...
I only have one clutch type. I remember setting it up a lil looser because of the way it works;
But I don't recall the number. And of course, with a clutch-type, the clutches have to be pre-soaked over-night.
DoctorDiff
Well-Known Member
Did your clutch pack include the special, narrow plates on the end of each side?
It takes more than a couple of times.
DoctorDiff
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you have a Dana 44 clutch pack. If so, you must re-use your original thin plates on the end of the pack.
I also recommend you pre-lube each clutch plate with straight friction modifier during installation.
I also recommend you pre-lube each clutch plate with straight friction modifier during installation.
Thanks for stopping by Cass.
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