Clutch Technical Questions for Slant Six A-833 Fork and Universal Wilwood

[Saltcityslant]

I'm building a slant six a833 and putting it in my Dodge truck. I got a Wilwood universal clutch master cylinder, and I've made a homemade pushrod, but I am concerned that it will bind, and either crack the housing or will wear out over time. I am unfamiliar with how these clutch z bars work from the factory, so some of you hot rod builders out there give me advice. Do we think that this is going to bind, or will I be alright? I am planning to at the very least curve the washers to fit the bevel inside of the clutch fork where it supposed to mate up. I could always do a heim joint of some kind but I figured I'd have a crack at something simple before I really break my fabrication cap.

There is some pretty good movement inside the cupped slave cylinder, it's not super rigid, imagine like the pushrod mates to the master cylinder.

Let me know what you guys think, thanks.

S

 

[Dave999]

Can't tell if you have any rubber in that sandwich of nut washer fork washer nut.
you need some so that the slave cylinder isn't providing all the misalignment compensation as the fork travels its arc...its the expensive bit id want to give it less of a hard time...

id use a standard z bar manual clutch rubber insulator and curved face washer, you will not need the nut or washer on the back side of the fork, if you install the standard return spring.
you may need to bore both new parts out a bit to fit the threaded end of your pusher slave.
curved face of washer faces clutch fork eye with the rubber insulator pressed into the eye and resting on the curved face of the washer
double nut to act as stop of the washer position on the threaded rod under the washer
back of fork needs nothing but a 1/2 inch of the threaded rod sticking through to that side to keep it in...

this will allow for the misalignment at the ends of travel when the pusher shaft is not perpendicular to the eye in the fork.

i have not done this but have seen it done a number of times by people using 3 series BMW pusher slave units, in a similar way to the mounting and set up of yours.
this unit FEBI BILSTEIN 01000 Clutch Slave Cylinder Fits BMW 3 Series 5 Series 6 Series Z1 | eBay UK

the australian version of the insulator and washer will fit right on the US version has D shaped hole in the washer that will need to be made round.

id also still use the return spring that pulls the lever back, i can see the small cut out in the clutch fork arm has no spring on it, this runs up to the bellhousing side and pulls the arm forward gain to lift the throwout bearing face just a way from the clutch so it doesn't constantly spin with the action of the engine.


check out this
Fits 66 67 68 69 70 B-Body Clutch Rod Service Kit Big Block and Small block | eBay UK

see profile to face of rubber. that fits into the eye on the fork and holds the insulator in.
see big washer that has D shaped hole. bore that hole and use washer curved face to push against rubber in fork.
use the two nuts you have to act as a lock/stop to position the washer where you need it.
You will need the correct return spring the spring hook length depends on application which depends on bellhousing used and clutch fork. the bell housing will have a cut-out or cast in "Thumb" to receive the bellhousing hook-end of this spring .
the other end hooks round the fork and has the end of the hook ride in that tiny cut out, visible in your second and 3rd pictures...

Dave

 

[Saltcityslant]

Can't tell if you have any rubber in that sandwich of nut washer fork washer nut.
you need some so that the slave cylinder isn't providing all the misalignment compensation as the fork travels its arc...its the expensive bit id want to give it less of a hard time...

id use a standard z bar manual clutch rubber insulator and curved face washer, you will not need the nut or washer on the back side of the fork, if you install the standard return spring.
you may need to bore both new parts out a bit to fit the threaded end of your pusher slave.
curved face of washer faces clutch fork eye with the rubber insulator pressed into the eye and resting on the curved face of the washer
double nut to act as stop of the washer position on the threaded rod under the washer
back of fork needs nothing but a 1/2 inch of the threaded rod sticking through to that side to keep it in...

this will allow for the misalignment at the ends of travel when the pusher shaft is not perpendicular to the eye in the fork.

i have not done this but have seen it done a number of times by people using 3 series BMW pusher slave units, in a similar way to the mounting and set up of yours.
this unit FEBI BILSTEIN 01000 Clutch Slave Cylinder Fits BMW 3 Series 5 Series 6 Series Z1 | eBay UK

the australian version of the insulator and washer will fit right on the US version has D shaped hole in the washer that will need to be made round.

id also still use the return spring that pulls the lever back, i can see the small cut out in the clutch fork arm has no spring on it, this runs up to the bellhousing side and pulls the arm forward gain to lift the throwout bearing face just a way from the clutch so it doesn't constantly spin with the action of the engine.


check out this
Fits 66 67 68 69 70 B-Body Clutch Rod Service Kit Big Block and Small block | eBay UK

see profile to face of rubber. that fits into the eye on the fork and holds the insulator in.
see big washer that has D shaped hole. bore that hole and use washer curved face to push against rubber in fork.
use the two nuts you have to act as a lock/stop to position the washer where you need it.
You will need the correct return spring the spring hook length depends on application which depends on bellhousing used and clutch fork. the bell housing will have a cut-out or cast in "Thumb" to receive the bellhousing hook-end of this spring .
the other end hooks round the fork and has the end of the hook ride in that tiny cut out, visible in your second and 3rd pictures...

Dave

Great response. I really appreciate all this input and will post more pictures once I get it close to being finished. You are all a great help and I really appreciate it. So, install a return spring and loosen up, so the throw out isn't constantly spinning with the clutch. I will very likely just make my own bracket, as I don't have the driver side and bottom side flywheel access panels.

I am also concerned that I am not getting enough travel on my piston to fully disengage the clutch. Is that something that I will have to feel out once the wheels are ordered, and I can drive it around? I am pretty confident that I am overdoing how much travel will really be required, I can measure tomorrow and figure out how much the slave that I ordered extends from fully closed to fully extended.

 

[Dave999]

set clutch up with clearance as specified in
Service Manuals – MyMopar
any one of these in-era manuals

new clutch plate needs to bed in so expect to drive and adjust and maybe adjust again

i usually adjust them to the max and try. with the clutch up and it doesn't move... you went too far...back it off rough and ready the bit point is from the lower 1/3 to 1/2 of the travel
BUT that is not the correct way to get it set up..see manual....

approach from that side, make it drivable, do a few miles, then worry about the right clearance.
the bite point will move as the fresh out of the box clutch plate gets used to being hot and clamped between 2 steel plates. they are not exactly "flat" flat, when they have been languishing in a box fo a few years.

a modern sealed for life throwout bearing uses same tech as modern cars with hydraulic clutches and they care way less about clearance than a standard 1950s/60s/70s design

i have got away with having my clutch bite point set in the top 1/3 (i find it useful for getting off the line at the track without burning tyre) and my modern throwout bearing has not died.