Clutch won't push pressure plate fingers help !!!

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ozmoparjoe

ozmoparjoe

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Hi guys, help needed! I'll start from the top, I purchased a Keisler hydraulic TO kit here in Australia a while back and damaged the bearing housing, can't get a replacement so I thought I'd set up an external slave cyl, using all the Keisler stuff (apart from the TO bearing).
The problem I'm having is that when I push the pedal, it's ok until the throw out bearing touches the diaphragm fingers, then it's as if it doesn't have the power to go any further, the pedal still has more to travel but just can't.
Slave is a willwood pull type, can't remember size of bore and the master cyl is a 3/4 inch bore.
The fork has been shortened to clear the headers too.
Can anyone she'd some light on this for me?

20171018_185545.jpg


20171018_185628.jpg
 
What's the length on the pushrod,did you modify it... Hint,Hint" you might to need to modify a custom pushed ,for ." 060-"100 preload ,before " clutch feel" engagement. MAKE SURE,WHAT EVER YOU DO... MAKE SURE,That damn pressure disc,isn't... dragging on...What you are asking to learn,isn't unheard, it takes time.
 
Abodybomber yes I had to extend the rod on the piston side as it wasn't long enough, I extended it by about 4 inches so a total of about 5.5-6".
Also the fluid line from the master cyl wasn't long enough to suit slave cyl setup so I made up a temporary metal pipe (3/16), surely this can't be the issue?
Another thing I should mention is that the pedal ratio is about 3.5 to1. I know I should be trying to get 6 to1 but to do that, I'll need to angle the master cyl on more of a slope (it operates directly from the pedal through the firewall), so i can connect the rod higher on the pedal, should I consider doing this?

20171018_191745.jpg
 
ozmoparjoe said:
I hope so, cos I'm about to throw a match down the tank lol
Click to expand...
Be patient, the is supposed to be fun..and a hobby. I do this hourly..walk away ,spend time with family..sports.. (What's your sport?,,..seriously..)...
 
It's one of four things:

1...Air in the system
2...Pedal travel is not enough to fully stroke the master
3...Master and slave are not size matched
4...Hose is wrong type and expanding under pressure
 
Ok, still having problems although the pressure plate fingers are being moved now, it's still a very hard pedal, I have removed the over center spring but it's also leaking fluid from where the hose screws onto the master cyl that goes to the slave, looking at the pic, does the braided line look like it has too small an inner diameter?

20171018_191745.jpg
 
How much stroke are you getting on the master cyl. and slave cyl? Who made the master cylinder? I have that same slave cylinder on my hot rod and get 1-1/4 inch stroke, but I am also running the matching master cylinder.
 
jaws said:
How much stroke are you getting on the master cyl. and slave cyl? Who made the master cylinder? I have that same slave cylinder on my hot rod and get 1-1/4 inch stroke, but I am also running the matching master cylinder.
Click to expand...
Hi jaws, i believe im getting full stroke (1.4"), on the master cyl, and about 3/4" to 1" on the slave, the master cyl came with the Keisler kit i purchased of the Mopar shop here in Melbourne, i naturally thought it was a Wilwood but i cant see any names on it, only a 3/4 mark. Tonight though i had a friend over and we were trying to bleed the hell out of the system and the slave developed a leak (see pic), so now i dont know if a kit will fix it or not, it's like it's pushing air out of there.

22687619_10214786689730273_7576929903035050249_n.jpg
 
jaws said:
How much stroke are you getting on the master cyl. and slave cyl? Who made the master cylinder? I have that same slave cylinder on my hot rod and get 1-1/4 inch stroke, but I am also running the matching master cylinder.
Click to expand...
sorry for double post but i cant delete
 
master cylinder has a 3/4" bore and the slave is a 7/8" bore, could this be causing problems?
Though Wilwood say it's for use with a 3/4" bore MC
 
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As I said earlier........

(after fixing the leaks!!)..........

Make sure it actually IS bled, and make sure your pedal movement is fully stroking the master. People get all "hung up" on stuff like pedal ratio, but the simple fact is, when the pedal is up, and the pedal is down, the master has to be at the (safe) limits of it's travel. THAT IS THE FIRST THING

Next the slave has to be matched to the master IN RELATION to the clutch fork. That same slave, on some "truck" with a much longer clutch fork, might not be what you want.

You can CALCULATE what each should be doing. Measure the actual stroke "you are getting" of the master. Do this accurately with calipers etc. Calculate the volume of fluid you are moving. Now move those calculations in relation to the slave bore

Remember that increasing the bore of the slave makes the slave move LESS than with a smaller bore slave
 
You said you were using a puller slave cylinder. Looking at the picture, if I'm seeing correctly, there's not much room at the bellhousing to pull the clutch fork.
 
ozmoparjoe said:
Hi guys, help needed! I'll start from the top, I purchased a Keisler hydraulic TO kit here in Australia a while back and damaged the bearing housing, can't get a replacement so I thought I'd set up an external slave cyl, using all the Keisler stuff (apart from the TO bearing).
The problem I'm having is that when I push the pedal, it's ok until the throw out bearing touches the diaphragm fingers, then it's as if it doesn't have the power to go any further, the pedal still has more to travel but just can't.
Slave is a willwood pull type, can't remember size of bore and the master cyl is a 3/4 inch bore.
The fork has been shortened to clear the headers too.
Can anyone she'd some light on this for me?

View attachment 1715101339

View attachment 1715101340
Click to expand...
Just looking at the pics again. Is that bleed valve pointing down? if so you will never get the air out. My wildwood master has a 1 1/2 inch stroke, and needs it all.
 
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