COIL QUESTION

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And for the third time: exactly what does the 3 amps refer to in the ' 3amp magneto'?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
You haven't got a clue....

For those interested, below are centre plates, weights & advance curves that can be achieved with HEI. I am not sure whether this list includes all the plates & weights.

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I know EXACTLY what the amperage of a Mallory magneto means. I also know what the amperage of an MSD magneto means, and how they square up against each other. Do you?

Because one would think that a measly let’s say 5 amp Mallory mag would be humbled by a 20 amp MSD mag, but it doesn’t happen.

How do I know this to be true? Because I was using and tuning with a mag when MSD released their 20 and 44 amp mags.

I watched time and again guys swapping out the 5 amp (sometimes they were a bit over 6 amps but at that point you can’t get enough condenser to get any point life) for an MSD 20 amp mag and gain NOTHING.

I wonder why the MSD mag uses a points box? Things that make you say hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. There’s a reason for it Bewy.

Moving on, it’s wonderful that again you post a picture from the serial article writer showing all those GM “footballs”. Brilliant of you to do that.

Of course there is is no explanation of what the “centre” plate does to begin with or what happens when you change the shape of it.

It’s another hit and run document dump. More useless propaganda. Maybe you should come back and explain it so we all know the how’s and whys of the various “centre” plates and the relationship between them.

Or maybe you can explain why there are so many of them, most of which are virtually useless for anything other than the exact engine GM engineered them for.

Why not do that? In your own words. Not the words of someone else.

You are embarrassing. It’s pathetic.
 
As shown earlier it is not so much the focus of the hei module. It is the E-Coil where the magic lies, running full 12 volts with no ballast resistor, and the ability that the e-coils are doubling the output voltage and still run cool.

The hei module just "Triggers" the high energy e-coil. Unlike some of the posters here being "Triggered" by the content of this thread. Running stock ignitions you are leaving 30,000 volts on the plate of unused resources, and those tower coils are getting hot.

Thanks for viewing.



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Triggers? Did someone say triggers? I don't see any triggers going off on this thread.
 
modules that retard....
drove 5 hours last night plenty of time to think

if you have a window of time in which to make a spark
and you have a minimum time set in the module that the coil must be on to do that properly,
the faster you go the later the spark will be... i.e the fixed window of time for filling the coil is pushing out the window of time you have for actually getting the spark away, then yes i can imagine some impact on timing
what it has to do at 6000 rpm differs from 1000 rpm.
this would normally be catered for in the mechanical advance curve.... more mechanical advance to mask the retard of the module.

the minimum dwell problem can be addressed by coil winding and higher current into the coil, provided the module is designed to take advantage. like mopar did with the Race ignition boxes chrome and gold etc.. they made them very good at high rpm but not so good driving to the shops and they did it by reducing the resistance in the primary circuit, bigger current, shorter time to "full". Used a special ballast resistor a specific coil and some tweaking of component values in the box...

the only time this would be an issue is if you are using the set-up way out of bounds
i.e you lock off the distributor and run say 28* across the rpm range and hope to spin it to 7K, you have then removed a vital part of the system.

you have no advance curve therefore are totally beholden to the modules ability to switch... i think you would see what Turk sees to a greater or lesser extent

the setup was not designed for that, it doesn't make the ignition module ****. it just means you have removed part of the system that was useful, i.e all or most of the mechanical advance, and that has exposed one of the limitations of the chosen module

the weights, their shape, their hinge point the position the springs attach to the advance mechanism are all going to play a part, as soon as the weights swing out the forces on them are different
so a 10 rpm change at 1000 rpm and a 10 rpm change at 4000 rpm can produce a different changes in advance regardless of spring or spring loop config.

so one presumes if the module looses 6 degrees between 1000 rpm and 5000 rpm the advance weight and spring set up is adding that, along with what we think of as our prescribed advance curve to keep everything on track.
in that situation you would want to distributor to pull in 3* of distributor advance over that range to stand still.... totally locked out is not an option

On the type of motor where you would conceivably want to run ignition advance that is pure "drag race" a crank trigger a cam sensor or similar and programmable ECU are the way to go

basic:- megajolt with ford EDIS and multi coil wasted spark
great:- locked distributor and daytona sensors cd1
no more problems and rock solid ignition timing.

so if you put all of your money into making a motor that will be the talk of the track
using a street/oem ignition makes no sense, you threw away everything OEM apart from the engine block, id suggest the ignition needs to go and be replaced as well.

now if you were observing this issue on a car which actually has a mechanical advance curve then my initial response about the module being wired backwards carries some merit.

Dave

That’s a pretty good summation of it. Here’s the issue.

All and I mean ALL ignition systems other than points will retard with rpm. All of them. Even the Unilite will retard some with rpm when used as a stand alone ignition.

If you know when and how much the retard is, you can work up a mechanical curve that accounts for it. More on this in a bit.

The issue is when, as you said the advance mechanism is locked out. Whatever the retard is affects the timing. In essence if you lock out the advance, you will have a regressive timing curve. From my experience, there are no combustion chambers that want a regressive curve.

Engines want less timing at and around peak torque and more timing at and around peak power. I shouldn’t have to explain that so I won’t.

If the advance is locked you end up compromising torque and power. You’d think for all the wailing and gnashing of teeth around here by the the guys who turn less than 6k and who worship at the brazen alter of torque they would do all they can to not kill torque.

But that’s exactly what happens. Every single time.

To follow this further down the rabbit hole, if the advance is “all in” by some arbitrary rpm line 2500 or even 3500 rpm, you are loading the engine with all that timing at and around peak torque where it doesn’t want it.

Now you get all kinds of detonation issues going so you reduce your total and it helps with detonation but now when you do get your foot in it the engine is a pig. It wants more timing at peak power but you don’t have it because it’s all in too early and you compromise both torque and power.

Yet the argument continues on apace for quick timing curves or locked out advance. And the defenders of this nonsense are dogmatic about it.

I once WAS one of those guys who lived quick curves or even locking them out. That was because I, at that time WAS ignorant of it.

Thankfully a guy called me out on it and showed me my errors. I didn’t better him. I watched his videos showing it happening. I didn’t just sit back in my ignorance and carry on. I went and bought a distributor test bench for my own use.

And I will spend the REST OF MY LIFE working to correct my horrible, horrendous advice in addition places like this where I gave bad advice.

That’s why I’m so damned dogmatic about it. I was dead wrong and I screw many guys with bad advice. For that I’m ashamed.

To that end if it means I have to trash slow thinking, pig headed, arrogant clowns like Bewy and George jetson to expose their ignorance and unwillingness to even CONSIDER they could maybe, potentially might be dead wrong and giving bad advice then so be it.

I deserve that for the bad advice I’ve given over the years.

If one or two guys come along and test what I’m saying and prove it out and fix their engines and gain the benefits of what I’m now saying then I’ve at least corrected a very minute bit of what I had wrong.
 

Triggers? Did someone say triggers? I don't see any triggers going off on this thread.


Great post. Again you have nothing to add. You should stay in your lane. Unless of course you want to jump in here and expose your ignorance too.

There’s plenty of room in the kingdom of the blind. You have a wonderful one eyed king too. You’ll love him.
 
Great post. Again you have nothing to add. You should stay in your lane. Unless of course you want to jump in here and expose your ignorance too.

There’s plenty of room in the kingdom of the blind. You have a wonderful one eyed king too. You’ll love him.
There is literally nothing left that can be added to this thread.
 
And yet here you are. Adding nothing. Oh the irony.
Alright then, since so far there has just been alot of hinting around and nobody has come right out and said it.
1. HEI's are bad!
2. HEI's are good!
The explanation point is used here to denote anger.
 
Alright then, since so far there has just been alot of hinting around and nobody has come right out and said it.
1. HEI's are bad!
2. HEI's are good!
The explanation point is used here to denote anger.


You’re full of ****.

I laid bare the undo hype of the HEI.

Does it work? Yes.
Is it reliable? Yes.
Does it retard with rpm? Yes.
Is it the BEST ignition system out there that’s ever been invented? Maybe.

Maybe if you want to run a distributor without an external coil, is three wire hook up and drive away then it has SOME merit.

If you want to make serious power, if you want features like rev limiters, timing retards ( which is why I exposed the FRAUD Bewy and his stupid worship of Vizard and his claims of a 300 plus hp hit of nitrous without an explanation of the timing curves used, the amount of timing retard needed for that much nitrous, spark plug gap change for that nitrous load and I forgot what spark plug heat range change was needed for that much nitrous…all **** that is critical for assessing the validity of his claims but was left out by Bewy and probably Vizard) and I explained why all that is important to know.

What’s sad is you are a sheep. A follower with a heard mentality. I’m sure I piss you off and for that you take every chance to try and antagonize me you can find.

Yet you NEVER post even a slightly detailed explanation of what you think, why you think it or even why I’m wrong.

What you do is exactly what the rest of the sheep do and claim I’m triggered and moronic **** like that. That’s embarrassing for you.

I even decided to post a relatively short explanation of WHY I go off on stupid **** like this. I own my errors. I made the error in public and now I continue to correct my error in public.

Do you do that?

Again, I’ve now had to type out another lengthy reply to ignorant, stupid posts like yours.

Next up will be guys like you, Bewy, George Jetson and several other sheep who stay in the shadows but have no issue hitting the “report” button and say “Newbomb Turk is being mean and he won’t play nice with us so do something”.

To appease the special sheep some moderator will have to waste his time removing my “offending” posts and then lock me out from replying so the sheep stop bleeting.

You have nothing to offer but here you are, bitching the thread has run its course and adding nothing.

Take a reality check.
 
You’re full of ****.

I laid bare the undo hype of the HEI.

Does it work? Yes.
Is it reliable? Yes.
Does it retard with rpm? Yes.
Is it the BEST ignition system out there that’s ever been invented? Maybe.

Maybe if you want to run a distributor without an external coil, is three wire hook up and drive away then it has SOME merit.

If you want to make serious power, if you want features like rev limiters, timing retards ( which is why I exposed the FRAUD Bewy and his stupid worship of Vizard and his claims of a 300 plus hp hit of nitrous without an explanation of the timing curves used, the amount of timing retard needed for that much nitrous, spark plug gap change for that nitrous load and I forgot what spark plug heat range change was needed for that much nitrous…all **** that is critical for assessing the validity of his claims but was left out by Bewy and probably Vizard) and I explained why all that is important to know.

What’s sad is you are a sheep. A follower with a heard mentality. I’m sure I piss you off and for that you take every chance to try and antagonize me you can find.

Yet you NEVER post even a slightly detailed explanation of what you think, why you think it or even why I’m wrong.

What you do is exactly what the rest of the sheep do and claim I’m triggered and moronic **** like that. That’s embarrassing for you.

I even decided to post a relatively short explanation of WHY I go off on stupid **** like this. I own my errors. I made the error in public and now I continue to correct my error in public.

Do you do that?

Again, I’ve now had to type out another lengthy reply to ignorant, stupid posts like yours.

Next up will be guys like you, Bewy, George Jetson and several other sheep who stay in the shadows but have no issue hitting the “report” button and say “Newbomb Turk is being mean and he won’t play nice with us so do something”.

To appease the special sheep some moderator will have to waste his time removing my “offending” posts and then lock me out from replying so the sheep stop bleeting.

You have nothing to offer but here you are, bitching the thread has run its course and adding nothing.

Take a reality check.
You posted this long post because you wanted to post it.
 
I take apart and work on tons of **** box Chevrolets at the machine shop, wanna talk about some dirty garbage running pieces of turd.
It's almost like the hei ignition doesn't work at all in a running engine lol.
When race stuff comes in small block Chevy garbage that runs a different ignition like a msd box it's all nice and clean like full combustion has happened.
Hei isn't special, it was made by GM and it's easier to duplicate. That's why it's copied so much & I'm not arguing with down unda and his magazine articles about it.
 
Alright then, since so far there has just been alot of hinting around and nobody has come right out and said it.
1. HEI's are bad!
2. HEI's are good!
The explanation point is used here to denote anger.
Doesn't matter, it wasn't even the topic of this thread.
The OP was curious about what he thought was excessive heat in the coil of his street cruiser. Some suggestions were made about a possible mismatch in Ohm ratings/requirements of the components that were in use.
Then a comment was made about redoing his entire ignition with an HEI module and Ford E-coils triggered by the Chryco distributor.
After that nobody bothered reading any of the posts and it turns into a pissing match about HEI high RPM capability, HEI advance mechanisms (which NOBODY ever suggested using an HEI distributor, only the module), and 800 HP Chevy smallblocks with a 300 shot at gawd knows what rpms.
After the first page there's absolutely nothing of value to the OP; and we're now at 5 pages and counting of stuff irrelevant to the subject and just devolving into children calling each other names and throwing insults.
How useful.
If any "guests" (that aren't web robots) are actually viewing this thread, they're probably just shaking their heads and moving on to somewhere else.
If you want to express professional opinions, act like professionals. And keep it on point.
Then I won't have to pretend I'm your Mommy. Not my job.
Now you can all gang up on me for saying I'm sick of this ****. Start your own thread to berate each other in, about whatever topic you like.
 
So what about the Firecore ignition products? How does all that stack up? I know Jim Laroy used their stuff and was pretty impressed with it.
 
Doesn't matter, it wasn't even the topic of this thread.
The OP was curious about what he thought was excessive heat in the coil of his street cruiser. Some suggestions were made about a possible mismatch in Ohm ratings/requirements of the components that were in use.
Then a comment was made about redoing his entire ignition with an HEI module and Ford E-coils triggered by the Chryco distributor.
After that nobody bothered reading any of the posts and it turns into a pissing match about HEI high RPM capability, HEI advance mechanisms (which NOBODY ever suggested using an HEI distributor, only the module), and 800 HP Chevy smallblocks with a 300 shot at gawd knows what rpms.
After the first page there's absolutely nothing of value to the OP; and we're now at 5 pages and counting of stuff irrelevant to the subject and just devolving into children calling each other names and throwing insults.
How useful.
If any "guests" (that aren't web robots) are actually viewing this thread, they're probably just shaking their heads and moving on to somewhere else.
If you want to express professional opinions, act like professionals. And keep it on point.
Then I won't have to pretend I'm your Mommy. Not my job.
Now you can all gang up on me for saying I'm sick of this ****. Start your own thread to berate each other in, about whatever topic you like.


You are free to ignore anything I post if it’s offensive to you.

It appears you think a thread should not evolve into discussions not directly related to the original question and no one should continue on with it.

If there is a FABO rule on that, let @toolmammike know and he will discipline me thoroughly for my transgressions.

Other than that, you’ve posted nothing of relevance so you are mucking up the thread with nonsense that has ZERO bearing on the OP anyway.

Pot met kettle.
 
So what about the Firecore ignition products? How does all that stack up? I know Jim Laroy used their stuff and was pretty impressed with it.


I’d love to get one on the bench and test it.

I’m not buying one to do it though. I’m not THAT interested but I would certainly test one if someone sent me one to test.

Rumblefish did that with a Jacobs system he has. I tested it and kept notes on it.

It’s a very good ignition.

My mentor has been dogging me to buy an oscilloscope to do more thorough testing of these ignition systems.

If I buy one (I probably will) it will add more detail to my testing. I’d just need to make the time to do it.
 
I’d love to get one on the bench and test it.

I’m not buying one to do it though. I’m not THAT interested but I would certainly test one if someone sent me one to test.

Rumblefish did that with a Jacobs system he has. I tested it and kept notes on it.

It’s a very good ignition.

My mentor has been dogging me to buy an oscilloscope to do more thorough testing of these ignition systems.

If I buy one (I probably will) it will add more detail to my testing. I’d just need to make the time to do it.
Have you tested a Hi Rev 7500 box yet?
 
I think somebody stubbed his toe on his way to his computer this morning, now he is really "Triggered".

Simple solutions that work, is a much better route than blowing a gasket trying to give yourself a heart attach with old school racing technology.

More and more guests dropping in wanting to learn > way more visitors than FABO members that's for sure, World Wide.

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US Stock Module.png



These handy units "Trigger" the High Energy "E-Coils".

For some reason, they also "Trigger" some of the thread content posters...



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Have you tested a Hi Rev 7500 box yet?

Nope. I do one of those too if I had it.

There was a time when the FBO box was the cats *** around here. The claim was it had zero retard with rpm.

That was a lie. The box I tested was as good as a decent orange box.

That’s not bad, you just need to know it so you can account for it.
 
I think somebody stubbed his toe on his way to his computer this morning, now he is really "Triggered".

Simple solutions that work, is a much better route than blowing a gasket trying to give yourself a heart attach with old school racing technology.

More and more guests dropping in wanting to learn > way more visitors than FABO members that's for sure, World Wide.

View attachment 1716375188


View attachment 1716375189


These handy units "Trigger" the High Energy "E-Coils".

For some reason, they also "Trigger" some of the thread content posters...



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Nope. I do one of those too if I had it.

There was a time when the FBO box was the cats *** around here. The claim was it had zero retard with rpm.

That was a lie. The box I tested was as good as a decent orange box.

That’s not bad, you just need to know it so you can account for it.
I've never once seen a claim that the Hi Rev box didn't retard with RPM. All I have seen are claims it is on par with the Mopar Chrome box. PM me your address and I'll send you one to test.
 
You are free to ignore anything I post if it’s offensive to you.

It appears you think a thread should not evolve into discussions not directly related to the original question and no one should continue on with it.

If there is a FABO rule on that, let @toolmammike know and he will discipline me thoroughly for my transgressions.

Other than that, you’ve posted nothing of relevance so you are mucking up the thread with nonsense that has ZERO bearing on the OP anyway.

Pot met kettle.
You've obviously not bothered to actually read my posts.
Nothing of relevance?
Right from the specs: "Coil Primary resistance should be no lower than 1.4O."
Relevant.
Ah, but the HiRev claims to be compatible with E-coils...
View attachment 1716373883
Relevant.
While by no means a comprehensive list, I keep a copy of this in a folder with my manuals. Sorry guys, it came from a Corvette site... but the resistor values are the key.
View attachment 1716373923
Relevant.
Hey CFD244-
Did you get the chance to try a higher ohm coil or ballast yet? I'd be interested if you ever got a positive result to your original question...
Relevant, trying to get back to the original issue.
Thanks. Keep us posted. :thumbsup:
Same.
Except a resolution to the OP's question.
Same.
If the thread should "evolve" beyond the question at hand, there'd be no need for more than one thread on the entire site. So let's talk redheads vs brunettes or lagers vs pilsners...

Kettle got left burning on the stove.

"You are free to ignore anything I post if it’s offensive to you."
 
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