Ain't that the truth?
COIL QUESTION
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Scody21
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Can’t fix retardation, once it’s set in, it’s for life….
Check your PMs again, tardamous.
"The Ultra HP carbs are aluminum for weight savings......"
Yeah you mean like they have been since the late 50s? lol
Yeah you mean like they have been since the late 50s? lol
Scody21
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They should have called it High efficiency Ignition, it’s of that era where they were making **** for the new smog rules being pushed in the masses of street cars.
We run 6AL digital boxes on the 4cyl to 10,000+ RPM in the power band of 6-10 k RPM the whole 20-30 minutes per session, For 15-20 hours before a rebuild. We might have one box fail every 2 years. Not saying that are the end all be all, but for the price point way better than the HEI BS.
The HEI is not gods gift to ignition. And why the f*** would you want to run .080 gap? That’s just a waste of energy trying to fire the spark that far with a higher chance of not having the spark jump.
We run 6AL digital boxes on the 4cyl to 10,000+ RPM in the power band of 6-10 k RPM the whole 20-30 minutes per session, For 15-20 hours before a rebuild. We might have one box fail every 2 years. Not saying that are the end all be all, but for the price point way better than the HEI BS.
The HEI is not gods gift to ignition. And why the f*** would you want to run .080 gap? That’s just a waste of energy trying to fire the spark that far with a higher chance of not having the spark jump.
Boy that's a fact. It just puts unneeded stress on everything before the plug. With modern low resistance wires there's just no need for it.
Oh, the ignorance....
HEI, like every other device, on the planet has it's limits. Being inductive ign, it runs out of time to saturate the coil as rpms & the number of cyls increase. CD ign such as the MSD 6, 7 boxes etc do not have this limitation & can go to higher rpms. Why do you want 0.080" plug gaps? That rough idle from that big cam is actualy caused by the engine misfiring. Anything that can reduce that such as a bigger plug gap &/or hotter spark will be a bonus.
HEI, like every other device, on the planet has it's limits. Being inductive ign, it runs out of time to saturate the coil as rpms & the number of cyls increase. CD ign such as the MSD 6, 7 boxes etc do not have this limitation & can go to higher rpms. Why do you want 0.080" plug gaps? That rough idle from that big cam is actualy caused by the engine misfiring. Anything that can reduce that such as a bigger plug gap &/or hotter spark will be a bonus.
Let’s play the what if game. I love exposing you as the fraud you are. The difference is when you are wrong you never own it. And you’re wrong a lot.
What if I type out a long, detailed explanation of primary amp current for a magneto?
The answer is you will do what you always do when you are wrong. You’ll tell everyone I’m stupid and don’t know what I’m talking about.
Then you’ll post some bullshit nonsense from one of the gods you worship who never compare and verify the results.
And inevitably you will prattle on about how great the HEI is and it’s the best. And if you stammer on long enough you’ll end up with every engine ever should have manifold vacuum advance, that all engines should use beehive springs because you think they are new technology when in reality it’s very, very old technology.
Then to bolster your bullshit some more, you’ll say no one runs a mag because the HEI will kick its *** thoroughly and completely, even though I gave NINE REASONS why most guys don’t run a mag. You didn’t refute any of those. You just did your word salad to confuse everyone.
Then when I tell you to **** right off, you and several others think skinned girly men will hit the report post button and try and get me removed from FABO so there is one less member exposing you for the puke you are.
That’s what grade school pussies do.
And I don’t want to go there. Again.
So to expose your ignorance and flimflammery I’ll post a link to an expert who has a video that explains primary amp current in some detail.
Of course there is the real possibility you’ll call him an idiot, charlatan and claim he’s making **** up to sell magnetos.
I expect that’s a real possibility because you’ve done the same thing to Mike at B3 racing engines, even though he explains geometry pretty thoroughly on his website. You’ll dig up some DV crapola and then slobber him up real good. Or some other article writer who has never been to the track. Or worse yet, never test anything against what they say is best. They just want to sell parts.
Here is an explanation of primary current in a magneto, how it’s measured and what it means.
This video explains it.
Bewy will be along soon to explain why he’s wrong. Rise above his ignorance and believe the expert who makes his living selling, upgrading and servicing magnetos.
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Plagiarize much?
Why can’t you articulate things in your own words? It’s ok to post things other people do but a you do is copy what they say.
You should be ashamed and embarrassed.
Post YOUR testing that validates this.
You can’t? Why not?
Is it because you don’t test anything? Is it because you accept anything written in books and magazines as Gospel truth and never consider there could be ulterior motives?
I have tested it.
Big plug gaps do NOT clean up a rough idle.
Big plug gaps do NOT make more horsepower. In reality, as horsepower goes up the gap needs to tighten up. Why you ask? Well because most guys making horsepower are using higher rpm than 6,000.
As the time to fire each plug gets less as rpm goes up, the spark naturally gets weaker. Oopsie. It’s the nature of the system.
As horsepower goes up, generally so does combustion chamber turbulence. And, smart engine builders find ways to increase combustion chamber efficiency by speeding up the burn rate and increasing turbulence.
Of course, when that happens you increase the probability that the literal hurricane in the combustion chamber (from increased turbulence) will blow the spark right out. Oopsie again.
So how do we deal with the spark getting blown out of that .080 gap? That’s right, WE CLOSE UP THE GAP until the ignition has enough energy to fire the gap. Oopsie.
And what else do we know? We know that opening the plug gap on any decent 7 series ignition box from say .035 to let’s say .060ish will at best show zero increase in power. I test it. It’s the same every time. Going over .035-.040 gap at best shows no hp loss.
Once you are above about 1.7 hp/cid you’ll start losing power with a .045 gap. At a .060 gap it’s about 1.5 hp/cid depending on combustion chamber geometry, quench area, inlet air temperature, fuel stratification and a bunch of **** I don’t understand.
That the facts^^^^^^^^^
Now, what do we know about what happens when we open the plug gaps more than ignition energy can fire? We know, for a fact it plays hell with the cap, rotor and wires. We also know if the gap is wider than the ignition can fire the spark WILL find or make a leak and the spark will go there rather than the plug.
Ooopsie big time.
And what happens when that spark jumps from let’s say the number 5 cylinder to number 7 cylinder?
That is correct. The Ooopsie is now firing the number 7 plug out of time (way too early) and damed if we don’t get detonation on old cylinder 7. Ooopsie. Again.
If we let it go long enough we push the head gasket out. Or if the gasket is tough enough we start abusing the piston and the rings and the ring land starts lifting. And/or you start softening the center of the piston. Eventually that little Ooopsie is now a nice hole in the piston. Yeah big gaps are the ticket to paradise.
Or maybe it starts back siding the piston. That is the non thrust side of the piston is scuffed but the thrust side is not scuffed.
It’s time to stop making horrible claims about plug gaps. I’ve tested it so many times it’s just stupid.
And, the weaker the ignition the sooner the gap needs to get tighter before you incur a misfire.
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In this test did they use .080 plug gaps?
Did they test a different ignition system in an A-B-A test?
Did they show the A/F ratio and BSFC numbers with the HEI against a different ignition system?
I’ll wait for your snappy come back.
BTW, I went back and looked. It took until post 6 for the HEI train to derail the thread.
I suppose it could have been sooner had you seen the post before four other dudes posted before you.
From post #8
E-Coil fired plug gapped at .035 ths.
Burning clean, runs fine.
_________
Most people coming to this thread will come in and read down to post #8.
Resulting in > "Now that's a great simple ignition where the e-coil runs cool to the touch".
Addressing the question the OP was asking about the operating temps of coils.
This is when the viewership for this thread really took off. Going from 120 views, to 500, to 1000, to 2000 views all in short order.
Later on long winded postings are just people showing up late to the game, and they get ignored.
As proof now as the viewership is stalled out at 2000 views, as people are getting bored with it.
The numbers tell the story.
☆☆☆☆☆
Looking at that plug only says the idle A/F ratio is acceptable. And that the total timing is close ASSUMING that you made a hard, full throttle hit before you pulled the plug.
If you didn’t do that then you have way too much initial.
What we can’t see is WOT A/F ratio and spark mark.
The former shows how well your WOT carb tuning is and the latter shows how good (or poor) your ignition system is.
Does that plug have spark mark?
What you have done with your post is add more confusion about timing, jetting and plug reading. Nothing more than that.
BTW I can get plugs to read like that with points. That’s my point. You have nothing special and you don’t need anything special because you build nothing special.
bee1971
Well-Known Member
Typically at idle your oil filled coil will get hotter because of the longer duration dwell time at idle versus higher RPMS cruising down the street
When Chrysler went to electronic ignition in the early 70s they still ran a .5 OHM Ballast Resistor on the ignition coil side of the resistor - If I remember correctly the primary resistance of the factory oil filled ignition coils where in the 1.2-1.4 OHM range
Honestly until you get it out on the street and see how it runs , and answering some of those questions
bee1971
Well-Known Member
383 - 500 HP
Only spinning till around 5500 RPMs = Valvetrain and camshaft spec
Not to China at 7500 RPMs = LOL
Only spinning till around 5500 RPMs = Valvetrain and camshaft spec
Not to China at 7500 RPMs = LOL
Those are the actual spark plugs that came with the '89 Truck at purchase, running the TBI factory system, plugs burning black.
Put the Mopar/hei converted distributor in along with the 60,000 volt E-Coil, and after a 15 mile round trip they had burned all the carbon off the electrode and insulator turning the insulator white. Pretty cool trick for not having done anything special to it. You can see the previous black carbon at the threaded tip of the spark plug, the whole plug had looked like that with the Throttle Body Injection system and onboard computer controlled distributor which has now been eliminated and now running a 4 bbl carbuetor for fuel supply.
Got rid of all the pollution crap on the engine too, now it runs strong and runs clean.
So yeah all pretty simple, no special engineering or tuning required, bolt on and go > problem free. As everyone knows the 1406 4 bbl is the perfect matched carb for the factory 318 roller engines and 318 roller cam, complimented by the factory higher compression 302 Closed Chamber Heads.
Nice Setup...
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Scody21
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Cus he learned it all from magazine martial writers, which are just as bad as teachers it not worst. If you can’t do, teach….
Scody21
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I doubt he even have a Box tester and a test plug, let alone a distributor machine. you don’t watch the spark arch, you hear it, that test plug is the largest gap you’ll ever has to use. Is a huge gap was a thing to use, why is it that spark plug makers don’t set the gap that far open? Why are the surface gap plugs not set at an .080 gap if it is so great and fixes rough running of the motor?
The Ford Cosworth DFV V8’s my brother builds, (finishing one this week) is 182 CID which is 2998 CC, spins to 10,500 RPM is 60 year old technology, and a hot rod one will make 515 HP, which is 2.82 HP per Cubic inch. Which is more than twice the power level per cube than most of anyone on here builds. So our down under kangaroo nut sucker friend thinks open up the gap and using an HEI is going to help us make more power per Cube?
There is a reason we use custom made digital ignition boxes on the V8s. We still use the vintage Lucas boxes also. They’re just becoming harder to rebuild/ service nowadays.
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Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I run a Accel super coil and it comes with an added ballast along with the stock one for that reason. 50 years and never had an issue.
Continuing on from Post #169 @Newbomb Turk
Just out of curiosity thought I would pull one spark plug this morning and see how it is burning now in this season after 2 months of running here in 2025.
Looks like they are still burning real nice since last Summer in 2024.
Turned out the 2 idle enrichment screws 1/4 turn (out) yesterday morning before heading out on the 20 mile loop through Palm Bay. Gave it just a little deeper tone out the single exhaust tail pipe at idle, like the way it sounds and handles the idle at the stop lights just fine.
About dialed in running and burning perfect now.
Thanks for viewing...
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marksmopar1
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I purchased the HR 7000 from Rick Ehrenberg. I specifically asked what coil/ballast knowing that coils/ ballasts need to be matched with the ECU being used. Rick said.. .5-.8 ballast and stock style coil. What he suggested and what I use.. excellent reliable performance, done
Scody21
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Driving a 20 mile loop before pulling a plug is not how it’s done…….
Go start it, take it to the end of the street, turn around, then do a power pull through the gears, shut it off, coast home and pull a plug.
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