I believe the rv2 compressor clutch on my 73 swinger slant is going bad or the magnetic gap needs adjustment. The clutch spazzes out on and off when it begins to get warmed up. Even with the low pressure switch bypassed? I was told by a mechanic that the gap might be out of spec. And from my online research, I think this might be the case. However, I found no reference to mopars a-bodies with this issue? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Compressor clutch gap?
- Thread starter distel
- Start date
-
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I would jumper it straight to 12V and see what happens. Might be an electrical/ winding problem in the clutch.
I know very little about these other than bearings. Have you read through the service manual? You can download them free at MyMopar.com ----Some of them there are due to the guys on here
I know very little about these other than bearings. Have you read through the service manual? You can download them free at MyMopar.com ----Some of them there are due to the guys on here
Electrical engage/disengage is caused by low pressure switch and temperature sensing switch. When the clutch gap gets too wide or the pump becomes too difficult to turn, the clutch remains engaged, slips and smokes, and smells. If you want to adjust that gap just to see if it makes a difference, you can get away with as little as .01. So long as it doesn't rub while disengaged, its good. I suspect your only result will be a lesser "clap" noise at engage. That loud clap noise is/was the customer complaint that led to clutch shim pack altering.
Bad temp sensing switch ( has capillary tube attached ) clogged coil/otherwise restricted air flow are more likely cause for your symptom. If you have a set of gauges and see a very wide ( out of spec' ) difference between high side and low side pressures, they all have screens placed somewhere in the lines that get clogged. That symptom... Proper gas charge and proper or above spec' high side pressure, Low side remains extremely low, thus evaporator icing, temp switch disengages pump. Anyway... Because these Freon circulating systems are all about the same, most any troubleshooting guide works. The factory service manual should contain troubleshooting plus where things are located and how to access/service. Good luck with it.
Bad temp sensing switch ( has capillary tube attached ) clogged coil/otherwise restricted air flow are more likely cause for your symptom. If you have a set of gauges and see a very wide ( out of spec' ) difference between high side and low side pressures, they all have screens placed somewhere in the lines that get clogged. That symptom... Proper gas charge and proper or above spec' high side pressure, Low side remains extremely low, thus evaporator icing, temp switch disengages pump. Anyway... Because these Freon circulating systems are all about the same, most any troubleshooting guide works. The factory service manual should contain troubleshooting plus where things are located and how to access/service. Good luck with it.
Pete in NH
Well-Known Member
Hi,
Unlike newer compressors, the RV-2 clutch does not have a means to adjust the gap. When the clutch faces wear to the point where they slip you have to replace the clutch assembly.
As 67dart273 suggests check that the clutch coil is getting full system voltage. Also, the Factory Manual gives current values the clutch coil should draw. Sometimes the coils go bad.
Clutch assemblies and coils used to be available as service parts. Four Seasons used to have them in their product line and may still have them. They also turn up on FleaBay from time to time, but are getting pricey. In many cases it's only slightly more expensive to replace the whole compressor assembly with a remanufactured unit. Some one on A bodies may have a good used clutch/coil assembly they could help you out with.
Thanks for the help!
-
