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There's a lot there I didn't read but why aren't you rebuilding this yourself? Time?
No worries bud. I'll build something for you. That's gonna happen or I'll quit this forum, pay YR 50 bucks and move to moparts...
Yes, but ....Let's say that you normally shift out of first at 50mph. With your current converter your engine has to accelerate with the car up to 50mph. With a good high stall converter your engine is already there and pulling, and has to wait for the car to catch up. Watch that video I told you about. The car is accelerating, but the engine isn't until the car catches up with it.
You don't want the trans to break, do you? Take a break?
All converters have some slip. The amount of slip is based on the amount of force the engine is applying on one end, and how much resistance on the other end(car weight, wind, hills, ect). If the forces are balanced no slip. This is the difference between a $300 and a $1,000 converter. It's ability to balance these forces.
A quality high stall converter will hook/ drive normal until you torque it/ mash throttle and then engine will hopefully be/ should be in it's peak torque range throughout the acceleration process.
car weight and gear ratios are an important factor
This is all I THINK I know. lol
I was asking about why you weren't building the transmission yourself? Time?
^^^^^I guess what I'm trying to say is the transmission Builder going to do some special machine work in the transmission or is he going to just change to high performance parts?
I've never seen a stock 318 converter stall as low as 1200 rpm's. Not even a truck converter. Not even a lock up converter. Something wrong here. My stock 318 converter in behind my 318 will brake stall to 2000 rpm's. Either your tach is shot, or you have absolutely less off idle torque than a slant six, or your converter is 100% junk.
My lock up convertor behind my A-500 truck trans stalls at 1450. That's a truck convertor. 1200 seems low. Cley
J par, he's just gonna change out the parts I know I should do it my self but he wants to trade. I'm just kinda looking to get something of value out of him. Honestly i just want to do his cage so he will tell everyone that i did it and hopefully bring me more busines. 318 I think my tach is on but I can check it. I've got a fair amount of torque as shown by the ability to destroy my 10.5 slicks so I'm guessing after 200,000 miles the original converter is slightly worn out....
Are you ready for a good high stall converter. A good description from Pascamp on how a good converter performs.
My advice on a converter would be to call someone like Kenny Ford at PTC (he races Mopars) and give him all your information and let him choose what you need and build you a converter that will work.
without dyno numbers you are pissing in the wind and guessing. They will get you in the ball park with the rest of your info though. Ideally you want your convertor to flash 500rpm over peak torque. I wouldn't put a stall in that under 3500 personally.
Cool, I just making sure you were well aware that you're trading your great talent and skill for mere parts replacement. I reckon you just done it before and just don't feel like getting your hands dirty with it. For me personally it was how relatively simple it was to how much satisfaction I got. (Kind of being every time I hit a gear and I know I adjusted the shift kit and put the seals and clutches in... it was like " that's me!") Maybe you could just trade for the highest-end parts at cost and some technical advice. Maybe he's got a couple great Edelbrock carburetors sitting on a shelf to trade you to put on your car took make it great again LOL Just joking you know I already think your car is great.
So I caved. I called Lenny at Ultimate and hes gonna build me a converter. I forget all the details but it will be 3,500 stall and a bunch of other BS that sounded way above my pay grade...
Lenny is awesome! You won’t be disappointed. He’s getting ready to build me another one for my new combo.
Lenny is awesome! You won’t be disappointed. He’s getting ready to build me another one for my new combo. I agree! I haven't drove my new converter on the street but maybe this will help. I had a factory tq that was tweaked to stall at 2800 rpm with a 340. Same converter stalled at 3000 in my 408. Called Lenny and he suggested that i get a 4200 rpm converter(I shift at 5800 rpm in my 408) I have a MRVB only NO brake. I have a 2 step that i use solely to turn on a light at 2200 rpm. That is were i stall my eng at, at the starting line. The new TQ gave me a better 60 foot, ET and less rpm(less converter slip) at the top end. When i got my new converter installed, it took more throttle to stall at that same 2200 rpm but when i launched, she went way past 3000 rpm and climbed all the way to 4200. And pulled a LOT harder. Question, What cam and compression are you running in your 360? Question #2 When you put you MRVB in 3 gear, and mash the brake, and throttle wide open, what rpm do you get. Also Lenny converter is only going to be as good as your data. Would be good to have a 1/4 or even 1/8 mile et slip. To give him more data of your build and how he need to build you TQ. Just a Thought.
This is a great read thread lots of good info. I learned a thing or two. One question tho cope. Is the price of the converter part of the trade? Or is he just putting it together for you?
Just under 11 to 1 comp ratio. I can foot brake it to about 2200. I have my 2 step set at 2,200? I think. With the line lock on I can hold the car at the light and be on the button wide open. Light turns green, button comes off and that the last I see of what's next to me. (I have my line lock and 2 step on individual switches with both tied to the button on my pro ratchet.) Converter and new VB will be part of the trade. The closet track to me is over 3 hours away so no slips yet. Its realy just a "street" car, even tho its realy a full on track car but I got a plate and insurance so.........I drive it!
Ok I'm ready to order my new ultimate converter (lenny recommends 3,500 stall). I'm also gonna order a bunch of parts from CRT. Should I just spend the long dollar and order their bilet trans brake? I know converter stall depends on a lot of factors but let's just say perfect world for this post. If I'm on the TB can I stall up to almost 3,500 and how does that differ from foot breaking? While foot breaking with the new converter will I be sitting at the line at idle, then stab it and jump to 3,500 or can i foot brake to 3,400? Also how does that affect my hole shot vs being at idle then stabbing the throttle. One way I'm well into making power and having a solid signal through my carbs, the other way I get pump shot. Remember I'm new to al this so please explain what you like, think is better any why? Thank you for your time and advice.
Transbrake locks the transmission in 1st and Reverse at the same time......release button...it releases reverse....while on the button...the converter will stall to its rated rpm....
When you're staged you aren't going to be able to make 100rpm changes with the throttle. You're either going to run it against the stall of the converter, or rely on a 2 step. You can adjust your 2 step to play with launch rpm. As far as a transbrake goes, I wouldn't bother. Learn to drive the car one way, and do it well. Using a transbrake requires learning a whole different technique, and a whole different setup (suspension and tires). Not worth the hassle for a car that's going to live 99% off it's life on the street.