Convertible top wire spring guides

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DA69RT GT

DA69RT GT

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Transferred this over from a previous thread now that the Convertible Forum is running:

Recently trying to resolve a ripped top issue and trying to locate the wire spring guides that attach to the inside of the frame to prevent the frame from rubbing against the sail (see pics). I have an old top that has ripped in this area and want to correct this problem BEFORE I put a new top on. Im sure that aging of the material is a main issue but if there is another way to alleviate some pressure where the hinge makes contact with the top (note: there is a heavy pad installed).

Has anyone ever seen these before and/or know if they are available? Looks like a bent wire hanger that can be made but would like to get some measurements. (Update: I am currently speaking with a member who was the one who originally told me about these....)

I called a few convertible top companies today and they had no idea what I was talking about. With all due respect... I think the "B" team was on duty .

I have bought items from topsdown.com before and gave them a call lastly. All they had was the Top Hold Down Cables but told me to send a picture and they will see if its avail.
I gotta believe someone is manufacturing these somewhere? If not- looks like I need to raid Grannys closet for all her wire hangers and get started...

Related thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=174349


Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks- Doug
 

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Have you tried talking with these guys:

http://www.convertibleparts.com/catalog.htm

They have New Parts as well as some used frames and frame parts.


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It looks like you have some to make templates with, Perhaps you could get some Sprung wire that you can bend a set out of?
 
went ahead and copy and pasted my comment from other thread

OK guys the spring steel wires are on my car. I made them after putting a new cloth top on my car and within 6 months had a hole in the right sail panel. The top had abraision marks on the inside of the panel from the tack bow.

The guy that installed the top had the one that was on the top frame plus one I had made but said it showed pushing out on the top so he left them off. His 1st words when I took it back with a hole in it "IT'S NOT MY FAULT"

Now the top was made by EZ Top in Greenville, SC and they tried to claim it had the correct top until I proved them wrong. Then they back pedaled and said it was a GM glass because they didn't have the correct blank for the Dart.

My 2nd cloth top was installed at what they said was cost but it sure felt like I bent over and didn't get the gel. After they got the new top on with the correct factory logo glass (saved the original glass out of the top when I removed it. Sent it to EZ top and they made a new cloth rear curtain) It still was rubbing in the same area, so they deterined it wasn't the rear glass.

So they it was my goal to either, never put the top down, or get a new set of wires. (couldn't find my ones from when the top was put on)

I started investigating 67 ~ 69 Dart convertibles and found several with the wire on them. With some friends that worked for Chrysler in Auburn Hills they looked trying to find something. It was not in any parts manual and they didn't find any TSB on the wires.

Had a few guys say yeah they had an extra set but would not sell them to me. I tried to get them to let me borrow them to make a set, still NO. At the Indy Swap meet a few years back there was a guy with a 67 Dart convertible that he was wanting to sell. It looked more like a parts car to me since the engine and trans was gone but he had a 5.7 hemi and trans to go with it. The top frame was there but no cover and it had a wire on the left side tack bow. I explained to him my situation and ask him if he would sell me the one wire. He told me no he wanted to leave it on the car. So I left still needing the wires. A little later I thought, "if I can borrow it make me a set and him a set we are both good". I went back and he agreed to let me use it, got his address, borrowed a #3 phillips screwdriver and in a few minutes I had a wire to use as a pattern.

It took me several attempts to get one that looked correct. 1st tried to use stainless steel welding wire, but it proved to be too thick. My next attempt was to locate the the correct thickness wire with spring steel action. With suggestions from some of the skilled trades at work, lead me to order the wire and start bending to make the push springs.

They have been on my top now for 5 or 6 years and it goes up and down all the time. At 1st would check the sail panel to make sure it was not rubbing. So far So good, yes you can see the outline of the wire in the top, but that is much better than seeing a hole in it.

Doug contacted me about it and he should be able to protect his future new top.

So Doug, I remembered where the original sprine wire is that I used for a pattern, I SENT IT BACK TO JIM. So I only have the extra ones I made, including the stainless steel welding wire. Try bending that into a loop 1/4" dia.

When I checked no one knew what I was talking about either. No one was making them and if you get the tack bow smooth, fill the tack bow (bondo was used in mine, instead if the original stuff) it might help. But I would watch the inside of the top if you don't have the springs.
 
Thanks for jumpin in and helpin us all out Larry!
I personally appreciate all the advice and help you have offered in the past. Im sure I continue to pick your brain over the years.
If you are prepared... I would be your 1st "customer".

btw- if you havent see Wildcats rides... be sure to take a look.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1715525#post1715525
Envy makes me wanna go out tonite turn on the floodlights and put some overtime in on my driver project.
 
Ok... heres a pic of where my top ripped. The point of contact is when the top is almost down and the joint where the frame elbow bends and comes in contact with the upper sail portion of the top.
 

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Look what I just got in the mail the other day...!!!

Thanks Larry aka WildCat. Guys- we might be able to talk him into producing addtl sets of these if anybodys interested???? Im gonna install mine this weekend hoping to alleviate any further damage to top.
 

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I don't know about the early A's but don't think it will help with were the rip is, they help push the sail panel out to keep from pinching the fabric with the tack bow

I have seen the wires on several 67-69 style Darts. Never looked for it on barracudas. My guess it was a factory fix that dealers installed to correct a problem in the new designed cars in 67.

I might have some more samples pieces i made for test patterns for my car if someone needs some
 
As far as I know, All top mfgrs use a generic backlight in these tops made for classics.
That may be a factor, dont know.
I've got the OEM ( Owens Corning w/ pentastar ) hard backlight for my 67 B'cuda vert project.
I know I'll have to unzip it every time the top goes down but at least its the right size for the car. The generic ( Comaro ) back light is much smaller than the original in a B'cuda.
 
Robbins has (or at least had) the correct rear glass for the Barracuda. After being sent the generic the first time a friend sent them the original glass out of his car so they could have the glass made correctly. After it was done they sent him a new rear curtain with the correct glass in it along with his original.
 
I think I didn't state that clearly

I wasn't referencing the glass but the trim and the shape.

The dart trim goes back into a transition piece and makes a sharp corner and the barracuda has the stainless trim that curves.

But as I stated I have not seen it on a barracuda, but it is noted they had them too. I have both Cuda & Dart top frame and will check them to see if they look like the same tack bow, if they are the same the wires should work on either.
 
DA69RT GT said:
Did you check with Wildcat?
Click to expand...

Ok guys

Got another PM today about these wires.

In moving I found the box of wire I made them out of and think I have a pair of the rough trial wires still.

It was all trial and error, and I really mean error error error

It takes me quite a bit of time to make one set. Don't know how to make them faster, better than just sitting down getting the length correct and then start bending. Might have to remove mine to make more since the original pattern I had to return to the guy that let me borrow it and I have no clue where my original is. Last time I remember seeing it is when I took it to the top shop in 2004

Since a few people want them what do you think a fair price would be for these?

The real hard part is making a mirror image of the one to make the left and right side.

They do not have to be exact, but close. As you can see in the picture of my top on the inside they are not really seen.

Please let me know what you think they are worth.
 
RedFish said:
As far as I know, All top mfgrs use a generic backlight in these tops made for classics.
That may be a factor, dont know.
I've got the OEM ( Owens Corning w/ pentastar ) hard backlight for my 67 B'cuda vert project.
I know I'll have to unzip it every time the top goes down but at least its the right size for the car. The generic ( Comaro ) back light is much smaller than the original in a B'cuda.
Click to expand...


Had a 67 Barracuda convertible with factory rear glass and my dart has the pentastar logo glass that I sent to have new rear curtain made and I didn't have to unzip the glass curtain to lower the top on either car.

I do have the incorrect glass they used to build my 1st top and thought that was what caused the problem with my top getting a hole so quickly, but even after the correct glass was installed it still pinched the sail panel. My top was left up till I got the wires made to push the sail panel out
 
I wanted to bring this up to the top because my 64ragtop has a tear like the one in post #5. Though my car is a '64, I wonder if the same thing has happened to it and if the wire spring fix would apply to my '64. Thanks!

BC
 
Glad this has been resurrected, as well as confirming cudas had them. Wildcat you have a pm coming.

Cheers
Steve
 
WildCat said:
Had a 67 Barracuda convertible with factory rear glass and my dart has the pentastar logo glass that I sent to have new rear curtain made and I didn't have to unzip the glass curtain to lower the top on either car.

I do have the incorrect glass they used to build my 1st top and thought that was what caused the problem with my top getting a hole so quickly, but even after the correct glass was installed it still pinched the sail panel. My top was left up till I got the wires made to push the sail panel out
Click to expand...

I was repeating what I've heard so many times over the years.. "If you'll unzip the rear glass allowing it to hang from the catch cords before lowering the top, the top, zipper, and fabric to glass bond will last much longer". I don't know if this was stated in any mfgrs' owner/operator manual. I don't know its a proven fact either.
I don't know if just any ( coat hanger ) type material would work in creating the little add-on wires either. I assume its a tempered high carbon steel. Good luck to all.
 
Wildcat, based on the time you have to put into them I'm thinking around the $50 to $60 range?
 
64ragtop said:
I wanted to bring this up to the top because my 64ragtop has a tear like the one in post #5. Though my car is a '64, I wonder if the same thing has happened to it and if the wire spring fix would apply to my '64. Thanks!

BC
Click to expand...

there was a procedure for lowering your top in the factory service manual that will stop/slow down the rip's in that area for early A's (don't have the FSM for the later ones)

here tis
View attachment convertible top lower procedures.jpg

I know for certain that my first dart convertible was not done that way and did indeed rip in that area, heck I couldn't even get the zipper on the window to move EVER. but after the new top was put on it lasted over 15 years before it got so brittle it disintegrated. that top was Up"n" down and up "n " down so many times I plain wore out the cylinders every 5 years , hey I was a teen to 20ish when I had it:D
 
66Dvert said:
there was a procedure for lowering your top in the factory service manual that will stop/slow down the rip's in that area for early A's (don't have the FSM for the later ones)

here tis
View attachment 1714662670

I know for certain that my first dart convertible was not done that way and did indeed rip in that area, heck I couldn't even get the zipper on the window to move EVER. but after the new top was put on it lasted over 15 years before it got so brittle it disintegrated. that top was Up"n" down and up "n " down so many times I plain wore out the cylinders every 5 years , hey I was a teen to 20ish when I had it:D
Click to expand...

I'll have to check my repair manual, but think with the change to the new 1967 body style the need to unzip rear window was eliminated. Most older convertibles it was necessary to unzip window.

I will see if I can make a few more sets of wires.

The wire is spring steel so it holds it's shape. Bought a roll of the correct .063 wire (mic.ed the original) to make them out of. Had an original to use for a pattern but it was sent back to the guy that let me borrow it. I still have a not so good set that was one of the 1st ones made. I have my tool box for work that I used to measure the wire to start, so can get the length correct

But the wire isn't for a rip along the lower edge, what it will do is push the sail panel out so not to rub a hole in the sail panel
 
Ok guys

Have had a couple people request the wires

Got TV tray set up with some not so good trial wires from when I made mine to use as pattern what is left of the roll of wire and several pair of pliers.

Man these is a difficult thing to get started, where did I start, which bend 1st? How long for the wire, hoe in the Hell did I get the angles right?

So it might be awhile before I get any done and hope I have enough wire for a few sets.

Once I get the shape on the 1st one done should be easier to make more. Just once you screw up a tight bend it is usually scrap and you start over.

Wish I had an original to use for pattern like I did when I made mine. But gave it back to the guy I got it from with a set I made for him.

So if you have ask about them, I have not forgot, figure for most of us the cars are put away for the winter and this will be a winter project for me.
 
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