Thank you for your feedback. I was actually thinking I should’ve given a little more information. The engine was just put back together. Brand new water pump, brand new oil pump, new belts, new thermostat, and all new hoses. The radiator is the one I used in the car prior. It ran fine with my 273. Hot is getting up to around 190-200 deg. Also has all new fluids.Define runs hot!
Did it ever run "normal" temp?
What has changed between running normal and running hot?
The engine looks newly painted, was it recently altered?
What temp is the thermostat, and when was it last changed?
The shroud might help when at idle but not at speed.
First I would run a hose connecting the heater hose outlet and inlet together rather than blocking them off. Cheap easy and might make a difference?
I’ll have to look back and see what temperature the thermostat was. When I use my infrared temperature gun it was reading right around 200. When I shut the car off that jumped up to like 235-240.190 200 is totally normal.
What temp thermostat, 195?
My temperature gauge is the stock one in the car. Usually the needle is running pretty far over to the right hand side like if it was a fuel gauge it would be about a quarter tank of gas left.190 200 is totally normal.
What temp thermostat, 195?
Non ACshroud will help
thermostatic fan will save some hp and be quieter 7-9 plades
plug the holes in the core suport except the one for your cold air to carb
valance/ spoiler helps
50/50 helps with some water wetter
what water pump? solid or plated impeller or just bent metal fins
what rrr said but I think 340's had a larger pull due to higher revs
is this an AC car?
Usually the needle is running pretty far over to the right hand side like if it was a fuel gauge it would be about a quarter tank of gas
It’s not. It’s off my 383. I have the original 340 fan but was told it might be dangerous as it looks like a flex fan stylepretty sure that isnt a stock 340 fan btw...might be 273 or 318
I have a hard time believing the various fan tests are accurate. Everyone I have seen they test on the dyno, this does not simulate the ram effects of incoming air channeling through the fan. I have seen many examples of guys comparing big 7 blade flex fans to clutch fan/electric fan at the strip and not seeing a discernible difference in et. One that stands out is a big block corvette that runs 9s.from fbbo
They did another episode on fans and how much power is lost with various fans and a rad with shroud in front. Very revealing. Clutch fan best at keeping as much power as possible. 7 blade solid steel fan the worst. Clutch fan cost 14hp and 7 blade lost about 30hp. So it's amazing how much parasitic loss there really is on an engine for a street application where you require things like power steering, alternator, crank driven fan, etc.
sorry about your new stmped fin water pump
we weld a round thin steel plate to the fins to inrease flow and avoid cavitation
if you really run up against a wll get one like that
run whatever thermostat your motor calls for
a low temp t stat does not cool an better than a high temp one
they flow the same
cold stat may not rid condensation as well and get's worse mileage
may get a little better WOT
I have a hard time believing the various fan tests are accurate. Everyone I have seen they test on the dyno, this does not simulate the ram effects of incoming air channeling through the fan. I have seen many examples of guys comparing big 7 blade flex fans to clutch fan/electric fan at the strip and not seeing a discernible difference in et. One that stands out is a big block corvette that runs 9s.