cooling not so cool

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mopar505 said:
did you get that pump pulley smaller than the crank? got mine in the mail today.If i have to loose the clutch and go fixed i will. Don't care about the HP loss, just concerned about the increased fan noise. Because there were so many issues with my system i'm going to fix/replace all at once, fill it and then test drive. cant stand the piece by piece route. i guess if there was just one or two issues i would of tried one at a time? i think you need a new computer for those pictures. LOL

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Whats the part #, and who did u get it from?? Looks like what I have been looking for. "How deep is it ??"
I think I`ve about got mine whipped tho now. It got up to 190-200 * last drive, but was only hi 80`s w/ hi humidity, but was very uncomfortable.
FLOWKOOLER PUMP, ROBERTSHAW 180 THERMOSTAT, 17" 6 BLADE MECH BELT DRIVEN FAN/IN highly reworked summit alum. shroud, A FEW AIR DIRECTION PIECES ADDED TO THE FRONT TO HELP DIRECT AIR FLOW INTO THE 28X19/ , ALUM. 2 TUBE CROSSFLOW TWO ROW- 1 1/4" TUBE RADIATOR. Will drive again when it gets hotter to verify.
 
famous bob said:
Whats the part #, and who did u get it from?? Looks like what I have been looking for. "How deep is it ??"
I think I`ve about got mine whipped tho now. It got up to 190-200 * last drive, but was only hi 80`s w/ hi humidity, but was very uncomfortable.
FLOWKOOLER PUMP, ROBERTSHAW 180 THERMOSTAT, 17" 6 BLADE MECH BELT DRIVEN FAN/IN highly reworked summit alum. shroud, A FEW AIR DIRECTION PIECES ADDED TO THE FRONT TO HELP DIRECT AIR FLOW INTO THE 28X19/ , ALUM. 2 TUBE CROSSFLOW TWO ROW- 1 1/4" TUBE RADIATOR. Will drive again when it gets hotter to verify.
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got it on line, a few members have them on here though. 5 3/4" diameter x 2 3/4" depth. No part # stamping on it?? sounds like your there without the pulley. get her in some stop and go traffic ( EXTENDED ) and see what temp goes up to.
 
opinions on using a coat hanger to make a lower hose spring ? with the anti corrosion inhibitors in the system should be OK is my thoughts. Would rather use SS but having a time finding someone who has one IN STOCK

all good on this, i got a stick of SS tig wire from a friend.
 
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mopar505 said:
got it on line, a few members have them on here though. 5 3/4" diameter x 2 3/4" depth. No part # stamping on it?? sounds like your there without the pulley. get her in some stop and go traffic ( EXTENDED ) and see what temp goes up to.
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HYMM, I think mine is 2 3/8" deep !
 
just going thru some pictures of when the car came back from the dyno. i had the guy replace the fan clutch thinking that was the cause of the over heat at idle and stop and go. Is this fan on backwards or am i wrong? standing in front of car looking at the motor it turns clockwise correct?

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mopar505 said:
opinions on using a coat hanger to make a lower hose spring ? with the anti corrosion inhibitors in the system should be OK is my thoughts. Would rather use SS but having a time finding someone who has one IN STOCK

all good on this, i got a stick of SS tig wire from a friend.
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got mine here last week
sorry if i contributed to this being one of the places that's back ordered :rolleyes:

p.s. that fan looks funky
 
mopar505 said:
just going thru some pictures of when the car came back from the dyno. i had the guy replace the fan clutch thinking that was the cause of the over heat at idle and stop and go. Is this fan on backwards or am i wrong? standing in front of car looking at the motor it turns clockwise correct?

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Backwards to me
 
well if the fans is backwards it was sold that way to me and the dyno guy just put it back on the way he found it. DAM,that may explain the blow back thru the radiator issue, even worst at high speeds. Here is a shot of the motor before it went into car. Is the consensus backwards.

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Well in the last pic, the engine and trans are backwards.....wont fit in that beautiful GTX like that!
Send me the GTX and I'll straighten it out....
 
F me..big block, so ccw for distributor AND engine? If ccw for engine, I would say fan is good....if engine cw then fan backwards
 
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4spdragtop said:
Heres pic of our 67 273. Clockwise rotation. The front/leading edge is closest to fan and "pulls"

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yeah, thats the way mine should have been but nobody caught it including me. Well at least i know what i got in the cooling system now. no guessing. will find out today how everything works. got to fill it, burp it and take er for a cruise. a new 7 blade is now on properly.
 
Well i am stoked and happy to report all my cooling woes are gone. it will hold 185 all day long in hot *** weather. can be in stop and go or highway. we are good to go.
here is what we did.
1. block flush
2. high flow water pump 8 vane with backing plate and stewart components high flow 180 stat.
3. reduced the size of the pump pulley to 5 3/4". the crank pulley remains the same at 6.5"
4. installed a COLD CASE two row 26"radiator with 1 1/4" tubes. MORE ON THIS LATER
5. installed the factory shroud to the new cold case. sealed all areas so shroud to radiator is air tight.
6. installed a fixed 7 blade 18.5" fan. ended up doing away with the clutch in order to get proper fan to depth in shroud. about an inch is what i ended up with.
7. installed lower radiator hose spring
8. hood to radiator support seal is in place.
9. mixed green antifreeze in about a 60/40 water to antifreeze ratio. Added royal purple ICE mainly for the extra corrosion inhibitors.i filled the block first before i bolted the stat and upper hose. this allowed most all the air to burp out.

Fired it up and first thing i did was hold something up to the radiator to see if it was pulling. it about sucked the thing out of my hand at idle. i then closed the hood and held it to the exterior grille and it still pulled it in at idle. NICE, that was a heavy absorbent pad i held up to it.
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Shot temps at a few areas. stat housing was 173, upper inlet was 151, and lower outlet was 106. this was after idling in driveway for 40 minutes.

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delete double post
 
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It’s always nice when things work out!
 
So i'm gonna give a shout out to Chris at COLD CASE. Vendor here. i reached out to him on my specifics and got nothing but outstanding customer service with a caring attitude. This guy cares about the product he is pushing out the door and the application its going on. i had many questions and all were answered shortly after my reaching out. This is a 2 row 1 1/4" radiator.26" width. my concerns were with fitment of the rad and shroud. He guaranteed the rad to support fitment, but could not on the shroud. We talked and measured things. shot a bunch of pictures back and fourth. In the end i had to open the two lower slots about an 1/16" to fit the support. I had to drill 2 holes in the radiator flange for the shroud to bolt up. EASY PEAZEY. Wanted to keep the factory look as much as possible so painted the tanks. Hated to do that cause this unit was polished to a mirror finish. I left the tubes and fins natural as to not interfere with heat transfer. This unit is one solid piece. The welds are professional and clean looking. drain petcock is brass. inlet and outlet sizes were correct as from factory.The best part was dealing with someone who actually cares and listens to the customer. i am quite sure this unit had something to do with the nearly 20 degree drop in cooling temps i now have. THANKS CHRIS. id be glad to share my experience with anyone who wants feedback on this radiator.
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mopar505 said:
So i'm gonna give a shout out to Chris at COLD CASE. Vendor here. i reached out to him on my specifics and got nothing but outstanding customer service with a caring attitude. This guy cares about the product he is pushing out the door and the application its going on. i had many questions and all were answered shortly after my reaching out. This is a 2 row 1 1/4" radiator.26" width. my concerns were with fitment of the rad and shroud. He guaranteed the rad to support fitment, but could not on the shroud. We talked and measured things. shot a bunch of pictures back and fourth. In the end i had to open the two lower slots about an 1/16" to fit the support. I had to drill 2 holes in the radiator flange for the shroud to bolt up. EASY PEAZEY. Wanted to keep the factory look as much as possible so painted the tanks. Hated to do that cause this unit was polished to a mirror finish. I left the tubes and fins natural as to not interfere with heat transfer. This unit is one solid piece. The welds are professional and clean looking. drain petcock is brass. inlet and outlet sizes were correct as from factory.The best part was dealing with someone who actually cares and listens to the customer. i am quite sure this unit had something to do with the nearly 20 degree drop in cooling temps i now have. THANKS CHRIS. id be glad to share my experience with anyone who wants feedback on this radiator.View attachment 1715219551 View attachment 1715219552 View attachment 1715219553



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Glad to hear the good things about the cold case radiators. I wish more guys would call someone like that before buying a radiator.

Most guys (like my block headed cousin) bought a 4 core radiator and doesn't understand how 2 cores are better than 4.

So the answers are (in no particular order)...

The correctly sized and cored radiator.
Correctly sized drive pulleys so the the water pump is overdriven.
Quality high flow water pump.
Quality Stewart Components thermostat.
Proper fan and shroud.

Cool as a cucumber even on desert hot days.
 
I once had a car (not Mopar) that would heat up and puke out after 25-30 miles. Turned out it was possible to flop the cam spocket (had a timing belt). Never could get the timing marks to line up perfectly but got them as close as they could be. (Note: Car was a 2000cc Pinto and the cam sprocket was 'windowed' so you could see the timing mark from either side.) I don't know if the cam was running advanced or retarded but learned cam AND ignition timing are both critical to engine temps. Flopped the sprocket over and all was good.
 
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