Correct way to use line locs

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69signetv8

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Have a Hurst Line Loc installed and can't seem to get it to hold worth a darn.

Locs installed between the master and front portioning valve,
Bled the brake system,
New shoes (NAPA),
Can hear a light Loc click when switch activated and...
NO LEAKS.

Witch is the correct way...or does it matter?

#1 Apply brakes then activate switch and hold switch on, or
#2 Activate and hold switch on then apply brakes?? I think I head someone state they have a one way valve to the brakes when activated. I didn't try #2, but #1 didn't work for me....I'm just a :tool:
 
69signetv8 said:
Witch is the correct way...or does it matter?

#1 Apply brakes then activate switch and hold switch on, or
#2 Activate and hold switch on then apply brakes?? I think I head someone state they have a one way valve to the brakes when activated. I didn't try #2, but #1 didn't work for me....I'm just a :tool:

You can do it either way. I prefer to hold the button then apply the brakes and give it an extra pump with the button held to lock the tires. It will roll thru the brakes unless you pump them an extra time or two. That and make sure you have it put installed in the correct direction.
 
64dartwagon said:
You can do it either way. I prefer to hold the button then apply the brakes and give it an extra pump with the button held to lock the tires. It will roll thru the brakes unless you pump them an extra time or two. That and make sure you have it put installed in the correct direction.

Thanks dartwagon, I will try the #2 as #1 "no way". I'm sure I have it plumed correctly...I looked over many installation diagrams. The line from the master went to the top most inlet (the big end that get secured down) and the outlet a port on the side?? Maybe you can see it in the pic?

DSCF0001.JPG
 
1966 dart wagon said:
i like the platform you mounted the msd box and line locs to, looks really clean :thumbup: good luck on the line locs

Well thanks dude :thumbup:
 
Here's how I do the line loc thing. Mine a TCI unit.
1. push brake pedal twice and hold
2. push line loc button and hold
3. let off break pedal
4. push gas pedal and start smokey burnout
5. when enough rubber has left tires, release line loc button and let off gas.

Works every time.

Jack
 
Coyote Jack said:
Here's how I do the line loc thing. Mine a TCI unit.
1. push brake pedal twice and hold
2. push line loc button and hold
3. let off break pedal
4. push gas pedal and start smokey burnout
5. when enough rubber has left tires, release line loc button and let off gas.

Works every time.

Jack

hopefully in 2nd gear?

I, and others will shift from 2nd to 3rd and then release the line lock and then let off the gas.
 
1. push brake pedal twice and hold
2. push line loc button and hold
3. let off break pedal
4. push gas pedal and start smokey burnout


thats how i did it when i had line lock.
 
Then I have a problem! :sad: I wonder why they won't hold by braking then switching?? Any ideas?
 
Second best part of the trip down the quarter......... is the smokie........
 
It looks like the line lock is mounted higher than the out put on the master cylinder. That certainly isn't going to help. Just food for thought.
 
Are you SURE you have the valve installed in the right direction? I installed mine backwards while not paying attention. When I tried my locks the 1st time they "didnt hold worth a darn" either. Simple 180 on the valve and it works like it should now :)


Just My .02 hope it helps
 
Eric_S68 said:
Are you SURE you have the valve installed in the right direction? I installed mine backwards while not paying attention. When I tried my locks the 1st time they "didnt hold worth a darn" either. Simple 180 on the valve and it works like it should now :)


Just My .02 hope it helps

Well, I did mine the same as this guys....I wonder if his works!

linelock3.jpg
 
ramcharger said:
Signet,

I pulled up the instructions for the Hurst line lock and in thier diagram, the lock is installed after the proportioning valve (between the valve and calipers) not between the master cylinder and the p valve. Take a peek here: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/huu-1745000(2)1.pdf

Thanks ramcharger. I have the maybe "new-improved" instructions that shows all kinds of ways including mine. Physics is Physics, uphill-downhill, before-after it should all work. (Its only a coil and valve)...........

Update...I cut into my positive run and can only read 10V..not 12V. The wire had a plastic splice and may not be getting the full voltage from that area. I'm going to cut and sod it correctly. Maybe thats the problem and thats why I'm only getting a light snap rather then a click from the loc. I'll let ya know.
Thanks for you help :thumbup:
 
I Hate... to harp on a subject... But... I'll wager a case of beer on this one.

Simply put, your check valve is routed 180 degrees out.

It does not matter "where" in the system the line lock solinoid is located. Be it before or after the "tee" (Using 2 after tee) Once brake pressure is applied (I like 2 pumps) and the solinoid activated. (Hold Button) The pressure (psi) to each front caliper remains equal. In most popular brake systems you have "full pressure" from the master cylinder on the frt brakes with the line locks holding that pressure till ya ready, so IMO it should go between the master cyl and whatever valve follows... Once activated, it's a one way valve, keepin pressure on the calipers with no feet. Maybe, check it for junk.

Bottom line, 2 pumps on brake pedal, hit the lock n Smoke em if ya got em ..lol
 
Ramcharger, the electrical was not the problem. I swapped that around and still no go.

Eric, I have the time to rip it apart but I'm so pissed off at Murphys Law lately with (the car) and things not working right when new...well I'm just alittle turned off right now! Also if I open the lines I have no one around to help bleed the system "again".

I know I have it connected the locks correctly (brake lines) to it.
I'm trying to decied if I should just leave it in place and rip the guts out of it through the rear loc body first first to see if a valve is in wrong.....or take the lines off and blow through with Loc with air. I have the brake down parts guide and kinda thinking if it's the valve OR crap in it, I can kill two birds with one stone ripping it apart.

I "will" let you guys know what it is however.
 
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