Cost of a single-color paint job?

[inkjunkie]

Also we never painted over anyone elses body work, full strip on everything.

Neither will the fellow that painted my car. Tried to get him to work with my doctor, he would not. In his words...."everybody is a mother f*****g body work pro. Every one knows it all.....especially when it comes to pointing the finger of blame. Not worth dealing with a whining sniveling crybaby to make a few hundred dollars spraying a car that in all reality has bodywork done to it that is flat out junk.". As he put it, do you bring your own bacon & eggs to Denny's for breakfast?

My doctor was working with a guy that claimed he was the best around. That only the absolute minimum of filler was used. After the guy screwed him over and he got the car back curiosity kicked in, he took a sander to some of the work that was done. He found areas where instead of doing metal work putty was used to straighten things. On one spot of the car he took a drill to the putty to see exactly how deep it was.....over 5/8" thick. I can only imagine what would have happened if the Doc would have found someone to spray it for him.

 

[CudaChris67]

Neither will the fellow that painted my car. Tried to get him to work with my doctor, he would not. In his words...."everybody is a mother f*****g body work pro. Every one knows it all.....especially when it comes to pointing the finger of blame. Not worth dealing with a whining sniveling crybaby to make a few hundred dollars spraying a car that in all reality has bodywork done to it that is flat out junk.". As he put it, do you bring your own bacon & eggs to Denny's for breakfast?

My doctor was working with a guy that claimed he was the best around. That only the absolute minimum of filler was used. After the guy screwed him over and he got the car back curiosity kicked in, he took a sander to some of the work that was done. He found areas where instead of doing metal work putty was used to straighten things. On one spot of the car he took a drill to the putty to see exactly how deep it was.....over 5/8" thick. I can only imagine what would have happened if the Doc would have found someone to spray it for him.

apologies to the op as we are way off course, but I suspect you have a feeling for what you are in for.


Ink- bummer about your buddy getting bamboozled. Sounds like in that case the body shop owner that refused is doing him a favor. But if he is OK with that level of work (nothing wrong with that) I am sure a maaco or equivalent will happily finish it up. If he is looking for something beautiful like your car, he is going to have to pay someone to almost start over.

This gets into why I prefer to do the work myself. I have been burned by just about every type of car professional, from the jiffy lube, dealership, local mechanic etc.

So for matters of importance I learn to do it myself, or do incredible amounts of research/ seek referrals for anything I have to outsource.

As mentioned here and in other threads, doing it myself may not be the most cost effective; a significant investment in time and tools is needed for each auto discipline. But I do this for myself, it is my hobby- my version of football or golf or whatever else people do with their spare time.

 

[inkjunkie]

apologies to the op as we are way off course, but I suspect you have a feeling for what you are in for.


Ink- bummer about your buddy getting bamboozled. Sounds like in that case the body shop owner that refused is doing him a favor. But if he is OK with that level of work (nothing wrong with that) I am sure a maaco or equivalent will happily finish it up. If he is looking for something beautiful like your car, he is going to have to pay someone to almost start over.

This gets into why I prefer to do the work myself. I have been burned by just about every type of car professional, from the jiffy lube, dealership, local mechanic etc.

So for matters of importance I learn to do it myself, or do incredible amounts of research/ seek referrals for anything I have to outsource.

As mentioned here and in other threads, doing it myself may not be the most cost effective; a significant investment in time and tools is needed for each auto discipline. But I do this for myself, it is my hobby- my version of football or golf or whatever else people do with their spare time.

After how got the car home and took the drill/sander to it he realized why my guy would not help him....and how right he was in refusing to do so. When I first got hooked up with my friend/body guy I asked him if there was anything I could do do help out with the price, I mentioned stripping the car down to bare metal. He told me that it will take him an hour or two to do it. And if saving the 50-60 bucks that this would is that big of a deal maybe I should look elsewhere. He prefers the car to have paint on it when he first starts on it, he uses it as a gauge of sorts to help figure out what he is up against. For me, if I am going to get a car painted I want it look as good as it should. And if that means paying someone for there services so be it. If it came down to me doing the body/paint in an attempt to save the funds it simply would not get done, the car would be one of those ones that has a restored drive train and a rough body....noting wrong with admitting that something is beyond your skill set....would you cut your wife open to remove a cancerous tumor to avoid paying what ever it took to have a skilled surgeon do it? Goofy analogy yes....but you get the point....

 

[Captainkirk]

apologies to the op as we are way off course, but I suspect you have a feeling for what you are in for.

No apology required...this debate/discussion is why I posted the question in the first place!
And my initial question has been answered BTW....no way I can afford to have someone else shoot the color at those prices. I will take Dave Bonds advice and do my 'practice' color shooting on the engine bay. Thanks for everyone's replies and advice on this!

 

[AdamR]

If you can paint the engine compartment you can paint flat panels.

 

[CudaChris67]

If you can paint the engine compartment you can paint flat panels.

I have to agree on this, engine bay has many angles to get right. For those that enjoy Dodgeball:

 

[B-onefan]

CudaChris, Just curious what kind of automotive paint you are using that retails for US $1200.00 for a gallon. "My paint alone retails US $1200 a gallon"

I priced some 2012 or 13 Challenger Plum Crazy for my 72 Dart project. It was $78.00 a pint in PPG basecoat(shop price). You figure a complete color change and how much paint that will take, plus everything else. Mucha$$$$$$

 

[CudaChris67]

I priced some 2012 or 13 Challenger Plum Crazy for my 72 Dart project. It was $78.00 a pint in PPG basecoat(shop price). You figure a complete color change and how much paint that will take, plus everything else. Mucha$$$$$$

one cool thing about it is:
at that price, you wont see too many others with the same color...

 

[inkjunkie]

Looked into painting the Dart Viper red...almost lost my lunch when I found out how much Red is going for.....When/if we ever get to the Fairlane I guess it will not be Rangoon Red again.....and they look so good in it....

 

[AdamR]

Looked into painting the Dart Viper red...almost lost my lunch when I found out how much Red is going for.....When/if we ever get to the Fairlane I guess it will not be Rangoon Red again.....and they look so good in it....

Yup, Heres $850 worth of base coat

 

[BillGrissom]

How about $50? Nobody mentioned the post on moparts.com by 69ChargerYeeHa (or such) on the roll & tip method, the most read automotive post on the internet, I understand. Most there use Rustoleum, but I used much better Interlux Brightsides polyurethane (boat paint, ~$100/gal). I painted my trailer that way 4 yrs ago, and still looks shiny. So far I painted my 65 Dart's trunk, engine bay, and interior. Need time to work on the outside. Before fussing, look at all the car photos on that site.

Re Maaco, in 1996 I got their winter special on my 65 Newport, and picked the higher grade 2-part polyurethane ($250 I recall). It still looks fine today, even though I have mostly parked outside in GA & CA. There was slight "orange peel" from humidity (why winter is cheaper), but no worse than you see on many new cars. I did see a hair or two down low, but barely visible. That was after an accident required replacing a qtr panel and rear. Since then, I have had to replace 2 doors (driver & deer), plus qtr panel repair (another driver) and a roof dent (tree limb). If you drive it, the paint will get damaged.

I will never use metallic again. I sprayed one door while lying horizontal (less drips), but the paint looks different in sunlight, while another door that was sprayed on the car matches. The metal particles must be affected by gravity. I also read that they oxidize, which degrades the paint faster. I also would never do clear-coat since it is almost impossible to repair, and looks terrible when it degrades. After ~20 yrs, my Newport looks better than the typical newish car you see driving around with paint flaking off or degraded clear coat, and crazed plastic headlamps. I think people that say things like "a 20 footer" are idiots. I try to stay 20 ft from their trailer queens.

 

[AdamR]

yes you dont want to paint metallic unless the parts are assembled on the car. Its much harder to make it even.

 

[Captainkirk]

Well, I checked with my paint dealer today; I can get Nason (DuPont) acrylic enamel in Winchester Gray for $126.00 per gallon (plus hardener & reducer) and he says it requires no basecoat or clearcoat.....prime & shoot. I'm gonna start out with a quart of color (in the spring, when it's a roller again) and shoot the engine bay for starters...that will tell me if I can handle the rest.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Well, I checked with my paint dealer today; I can get Nason (DuPont) acrylic enamel in Winchester Gray for $126.00 per gallon (plus hardener & reducer) and he says it requires no basecoat or clearcoat.....prime & shoot. I'm gonna start out with a quart of color (in the spring, when it's a roller again) and shoot the engine bay for starters...that will tell me if I can handle the rest.

So you are going to do all this work to paint your car then use Nason single stage metallic?

Spending $126 to have someone kick you in the balls would be a better investment.

I know you want to save some money but please buy a better paint.

 

[Captainkirk]

So you are going to do all this work to paint your car then use Nason single stage metallic?

Spending $126 to have someone kick you in the balls would be a better investment.

I know you want to save some money but please buy a better paint.

Tell me what's wrong with Nason?
I could get Centari as well, but I didn't price it out.
I've shot a lot of Centari and found it to be pretty durable paint. I know nothing about Nason paint other than it's a DuPont product. So, school me.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Nason is on the very low end of the quality scale. It's the kind of paint that a shady used car dealer would apply to turn a sale.

You know...... A paint job with a 30 day or 30 mile warranty, whichever comes first.

Something that will fade and lose it's gloss level quickly isn't something I would use after doing all that work.

 

[challengergary]

I personally like Nason paints but not their Acrylic Enamel. If you want to go with Nason single stage, use their Ful-Thane line. It is way better than the enamel. Better yet, use their Ful-Base base coat and top it with some good clear and you'll be a lot happier with the results

 

[roccodart440]

yes you dont want to paint metallic unless the parts are assembled on the car. Its much harder to make it even.

What they did on my last car was they painted all parts off the car with base and some areas base clear. Then they assembled the whole car and sprayed another coat of base on to make the metalic pattern even.

 

[ScatPackMatt]

Been looking to get my '74 Dart Sport 360 re-painted in the next few years. Have been doing my research. As it looks now, I believe I am going to have a gentleman who is a fellow car club member do the job. He has painted numerous club members cars over the years, and his work looks good. He is a professional, and has been in the business for 19 years now. He invited me down to see his shop set-up, and show me a '70 383 Cuda he had just completed(This was last August). Not to mention, he also did all of the body and paint work to his '71 440 Cuda, and his wife's '71 340 Challenger. After seeing the quality of his work in person, talking to fellow club members about their experience with him, and seeing his shop, I am more than confident in his abilities. He has already given my Dart a good look-over, on more than one occasion, and he has agreed to do the work for me. My Dart's paint is still rather nice, but I've got the "itch" to get a new paint job in the next few years, so it's GOING to happen. The Dart was originally an Arizona car, spent its first 29 years there, so I lucked out. It is extremely solid. The body work is going to be minimal, if any really. I'm going to do if right though. I want the car stripped down to bare metal, all glass removed, etc. You guys know the deal. She will basically go in as a roller. The price I was quoted by the gentleman willing to do the job, was between $9,000 and $10,000. This price included the materials cost, as well as any body work that may need to be done beforehand. We both agreed, that when it's all said and done, the final total will be closer to $10,000. I am happy with this price, and I think it's a FAIR price in today's market. I don't have all the funds right now, but he said there is no rush. He is currently working on a '69 RR. He said whenever I'm ready, we can move ahead. NO pressure, which is also nice. Point is, unless you know how to do the job yourself, and you are confident enough in your own abilities, then I don't see you spending any less than 9 or 10 grand for good, correct paint work. Not with today's prices. The old saying rings true here I believe. You get what you pay for. Sorry for the rant.

 

[Captainkirk]

Point is, unless you know how to do the job yourself, and you are confident enough in your own abilities, then I don't see you spending any less than 9 or 10 grand for good, correct paint work. Not with today's prices. The old saying rings true here I believe. You get what you pay for. Sorry for the rant.

I am confident enough that I can lay a decent coat of paint. May not look like a show car, but it will look better than the rusty primer on there now.
Not at all arguing that you get what you pay for, nor that a $10,000.00 paint job is not worth the cost. Rather, I am realizing that unless I win the lottery, it's DIY or rust n' primer. Not a hard decision to make, really.
That is, unless I come across a painter that will shoot the car for a few hundred...and that's not likely these days.

 

[AdamR]

Paint it yourself in base/clear. Put on 3 or 4 coats of clear, then wet sand and buff.

 

[Captainkirk]

Paint it yourself in base/clear. Put on 3 or 4 coats of clear, then wet sand and buff.

If it comes out looking like yours Adam, I'd be happy as a pig in a mud puddle! That thing is eye-poppin' gorgeous!rayer:

 

[Woods74]

TCP Global base, SPI clear. Done dealz.

 

[SBDart]

WOW.. were are you guys buying your paint at????? 1000 buck for paint please.. I am not trying to be a smart a$$ here at all.. if you are looking for that 100 point paint job that's cool go for it. I am cheap ... I am looking for the best bang for my bucks I just want a nice looking paint job I do them myself. I just bought everything to paint my car.... satin white paint for $120 bucks . and like it said I am cheap . I get what I pay for not looking for a 100 point paint job. just a good paint job.. yes its a single stage paint.. that's all I paint. some of my other paint jobs with single stage paint jobs

 

[cawley]

you get what you pay for, single stage paint is harder to spray than your average base clear, why not try it your self ?