Could it be my fuel pump or is my carb just bad?

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edb_app

edb_app

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Yesterday I ran out of gas, after refueling I tried to start back up and it would not stay running once in drive or reverse. Im wondering if some gunk from the tank might have clogged up the pump? I know my fuel filter had turned orange not to long ago so I tried replacing with a new one. Still the same problem. Also my idle stays running high. Here is also a picture of my carb. It seems like something is not right. Also is it normal to be able to shift without pressing the brake I have never noticed before. Please if anyone has an idea that would help a lot.

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pull coil wire from distributor, disconnect fuel line, put in jar or bucket and have someone turn over engine, should have a good stream of gas. Orange color would suggest rust in tank, keep changing filters or have it cleaned. A BIG can of carb cleaner would help, in and outside of that carb. Its leaking bad and could probably need rebuilt or replaced. Also get a real air cleaner asap.
 
If the car sat with some fuel in the tank for a long period of time, the fuel sock on the sending unit might look like this:

pickup-1.jpg
 
Also I took the fuel filter completely off and connected the fuel line strait to the carb and there was no problems only the idle remained high. Now I put the fuel filter back on, the idle is so high the car moves at about 2 mph without even pressing the gas.
 
Does anyone know what this part of the carb is for? Its just loose and seems like it needs something connected to it to help close the flap in the carb.

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Wow, that's and ugly carb. Cleaning it probably wouldn't hurt. Seafoam in the tank and a new filter(s) may help.

Getting rid of that ghetto air filter would be a good thing as well. I don't think they make them any smaller and more restrictive.

That piece of your carb is the fast idle cam. When the choke sets it opens the throttle blades to raise the idle.
 
So I bought a carb rebuild kit and installed. Same problem still. When in park and neutral idle is fine and I can push gas with no problem. When put in reverse or drive idles fine but as soon as I press the gas it stalls. Sometimes it even sends out a puff of white smoke from the carb before it shuts off. I really need some input before I change out the fuel pump next.
 
Unless you are just itching to replace your fuel pump, don't bother. It's probably not your problem. Have you taken a look at the pickup in the tank yet?

Other things to look at... Is your accelerator pump working? Vacuum advance leaking? EGR valve leaking? Vacuum leak elsewhere? Ignition timing way to far advanced?

The picture of your engine compartment shows a pretty hacked emissions control setup. It looks like somebody removed your charcoal canister and capped off the bowl vent. BAD PLAN.
 
Just removed the EGR valve and it was packed with gunk. I am going to try and find one for a good price and replace that. How can I check the accelerator pump is working?
 
Replaced the EGR valve today still having the same problem. How do I "look at the pickup in the tank"? Where is the vacuum advance and how can I test to see if there is a vacuum leak elsewhere? How do I do ignition timing? I know these are a lot of questions but if anyone could help that would be wonderful. Im stuck looking at my car in the driveway 3 days now.
 
Sounds like you need to buy a service manual for your car... No, really.

The in-tank pickup is accessible by removing it from the front of the tank. Get under the can and this should make sense. You want less than 1/2 tank before attempting this.

Accelerator pump function can be verified by looking down the throat of the carb while opening the throttle by hand (engine off). You should see a stream of gas squirt.

Vacuum advance is a dashpot on the side of the distributor. It should be connected to the timed vacuum port on your carb (as should the EGR). Testing requires a hand vacuum pump. OR disconnect vacuum line and plug at carb, and see if you have a difference.

Timing is adjusted by rotating the distributor. You need a timing light to set timing. A manual would be real handy.

When you rebuilt the carb, was there much rust in the bottom? What did you set the floats at?

Is your fuel filter still clear?
 
edb_app said:
So I bought a carb rebuild kit and installed. Same problem still. When in park and neutral idle is fine and I can push gas with no problem. When put in reverse or drive idles fine but as soon as I press the gas it stalls. Sometimes it even sends out a puff of white smoke from the carb before it shuts off. I really need some input before I change out the fuel pump next.
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did you just put the "rebuild gaskets" in . Or did you spray the crap out of the carb passages , with carb cleaner/ solvent , and then hit them with compressed air .... ? you have to get the passages clean.

just asking--some people think a new gasket set will cure a carb problem...



have you checked for vacuum leaks?


i worked on a friends 69 Mustang all day and finally saw the Orange / bad gas , when i pulled the carb........
 
mopar head said:
pull coil wire from distributor, disconnect fuel line, put in jar or bucket and have someone turn over engine, should have a good stream of gas. Orange color would suggest rust in tank, keep changing filters or have it cleaned. A BIG can of carb cleaner would help, in and outside of that carb. Its leaking bad and could probably need rebuilt or replaced. Also get a real air cleaner asap.
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where should i disconnect the fuel line at?
 
homecloned said:
I think he means after the fuel pump and before carb. Probably at the filter. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Okay... Also, I forgot to put this... the exhaust is sputtering... doesn't idle as smooth. What could cause this? I read that there might be gas in the oil... True or Not?
 
Have you put a timing light on it to see what your initial timing is set? Lots of carb problems are rooted in the ignition system.
 
like was said you need a manual so you have a basic understanding of how everything works.
 
homecloned said:
Does it smell like raw fuel out the exhaust when running?
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Yes it does... When I placed my hand near the exhaust and then smelled it... it smelt just like gas... and there is a lot of carbon build up in the pipe.

also, since I removed the wire from the distributor I need a jump start to get her starting...

Will it ever stop!!! AHHHHHH...

Thanks again everyone for their help!!!
 
I finally got it to work. Surprisingly it was the ballast resister I replaced. I put the old one back in and everything was back to normal. There is one thing though, ever since I rebuilt the carb the idle is real high when in park or neutral. I have adjusted the carb and gotten it to the lowest idle possible in able to continue to run when I put it in gear. Im trying to figure out what would cause this. Thanks everyone!
 
So its been running pretty good lately thanks to you all! Sometimes when I turn the car off the engine revs and the carb smokes. Seems like there is too much fuel going into the carb? Do you think that the float or bowl vent could need adjustment?
 
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