Cracked Steering Wheel

-
Looks like you have been jumping too many puddles. Not a safety issue. It has a steel skeleton. I've seen some people use bondo to fill them in, sand and repaint.
 
panel bond A.k.a 3M 8115 works great to fill that in and fix it.

People use regular epoxy and that is not really automotive grade and bondo will crack after a short while but panel bond is an automotive grade filler that is drillable, moldable, sand able, and paintable, and all around amazing stuff.
 
some people have used jb weld to fill that. Do not how durable but it sure looks pretty first finished, Lawrence
 
RaniDart70 said:
panel bond A.k.a 3M 8115 works great to fill that in and fix it.

People use regular epoxy and that is not really automotive grade and bondo will crack after a short while but panel bond is an automotive grade filler that is drillable, moldable, sand able, and paintable, and all around amazing stuff.
Click to expand...

One push or flex on the steering wheel and it will crack again rest assured.
 
Mickey12 said:
I just noticed some major cracks at the base of my steering wheel (’65 Valiant Base). Is this a safety issue? Should the wheel be replaced? If no, can the cracks be patched with a JB Weld type product? The car is just a weekend puddle jumper. See attached photos.View attachment 1714753334

View attachment 1714753335

Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...


nope not a problem for safety. there is a steel ring and rods inside it. welded to the hub. it's a common problem with the older A's
easy fix to but a little time consuming from a cosmetic point.
here's mine I used something called p-7 or pc-7. a 2 part putty epoxy, it worked great good sand/beadingblasting and V'ing the cracks out helps. then used auto paint , using Base/clear to finish it off with.
link for epoxy
http://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-PC-7-Paste-Epoxy-1-2-lb-087770/100649631

AND I have had to push the crap out of it when I made the mistake of letting the rear wheels get off the drive way and onto the ramped dirt heading right for a tree and the old motorhome parked there. talk about a panic, slamming and pushing for all I was worth on the steering wheel trying to stop it from hitting the tree! no cracks in the wheel yet.

View attachment DSCF3013.jpg

View attachment DSCF3014.jpg

View attachment DSCF3015.jpg

View attachment DSCF3016.jpg

View attachment DSCF4117.jpg

View attachment DSCF4118.jpg

View attachment DSCF4123.jpg

View attachment DSCF3012.jpg

View attachment DSCF3011.jpg

View attachment DSCF3530.jpg
 
66Dvert said:
nope not a problem for safety. there is a steel ring and rods inside it. welded to the hub. it's a common problem with the older A's
easy fix to but a little time consuming from a cosmetic point
here's mine I used something called p-7 or pc-7 2 part putty epoxy it worked great. then used auto paint . Base/clear to finish it off with.
Click to expand...


very nice job ....and the base/clear finish will really seal it up and look great.....and it does.
 
Stacey David did this exact steering wheel restore here is a link [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H99xrXNf9T4"]Superbird / Vintage Parts Restoration [S1 Ep.6-2] - YouTube[/ame]
 
pishta said:
Man, you should do that on the side; that's beautiful.
Click to expand...


thanks
I like it too but have to repaint it since my top came in as a buckskin colored top .:banghead:@#$%@#$%#@ now I have to repaint it pastel sandstone to color match the top of the dash and the door top side trim. tan paint(red "ish" brown and buckskin (green "ish" brown) top just clashed way too much for me to accept it. no one had the material for a tan top or at least wouldn't admit they did anyway#-o

BUT you have to be a glutton for punishment to do one of these that was as bad as this one was. I spent 3 weeks off and on working on it and walking away when I got too pissed off at it. :D but there is about 25 hours in it and that was using a dremel with a fixed mounting jig to do the finger grips. it's the fiddly stuff in the horn ring that took the most time.

the OP's wheel looks to be a lot easier to fix. about 10 solid hours of work blasting it, epoxy fixing it and then primer/paint. of course you gotta wait for the Epoxy (usually it's 2 times waiting since you usually miss something) ,primer to dry then the actual sanding for paint topcoat. so realistically 4-5 days of work to make it look good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top