crane cam

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needsaresto

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bump.Another one for ebay if there are no takers here.
 
And how in the world do they know when the valves will float?

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One thing you need to learn about cams is that the only real way to pick one is lift. All manufacturers measure duration differently. Valve float is more a function of your valve train and springs and rpm,not cam duration.
 
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One thing you need to learn about cams is that the only real way to pick one is lift. All manufacturers measure duration differently. Valve float is more a function of your valve train and springs and rpm,not cam duration.

I would pick a cam just by lift. You have to take all the specs in to consider ation (toss that old Mopar Perf. Book in the trash cam ,LOL)

Duration @.050" is usually used. Advertised duration can be measured any weres but I believe its usually measure @ .010" ?

I believe Moper likes Crane Cams, Im sure he will chime in.
 
??

One thing you need to learn about cams is that the only real way to pick one is lift. All manufacturers measure duration differently. Valve float is more a function of your valve train and springs and rpm,not cam duration.

I would never ever pick a cam by lift. That would be for someone I didn't like.

Crane advertises there rate right on the card itself along with the duration at .050.
Valve float is the valve springs inabilty to control the cam at any RPM. Of course, the limit of the spring will be when the valve floats and you'll know.
Valve float can happen at almost any RPM. Period.

Too much adv duration, not enough at fifty.........
Advertised by Crane is .004 while many common Comp cams are at .006. But that changes rapidly when you roll around the catolog for a bit.

And how in the world do they know when the valves will float?

It's on the cam card... right????
 
I would never ever pick a cam by lift. That would be for someone I didn't like.

Crane advertises there rate right on the card itself along with the duration at .050.
Valve float is the valve springs inabilty to control the cam at any RPM. Of course, the limit of the spring will be when the valve floats and you'll know.
Valve float can happen at almost any RPM. Period.


Advertised by Crane is .004 while many common Comp cams are at .006. But that changes rapidly when you roll around the catolog for a bit.



It's on the cam card... right????

OH! Crap, I forgot, I think that cam with Magnum heads would be real nice. A good cruiser with balls.
 
That is an older Crane grind. I am very partial to Crane products. They are not always the fastest ramp, but Crane has really taken the approach that street engines love. Flat torque curves and very strong mid range HP. If it were me I would be looking at something like the 693801. It has more lift and duration on the exh side, a little less lift than the .480, but I think will be a great match for the Magnum 1.6s. As far as springs... There are a lot more choices in LS1 beehive designs and they are a better quality part than the MPs. On the rpm of valve float... If the setup is correct it is very easy to determine when the valve float will crop up. That rpm is assuming you have everything set up properly and run the crane spring. A side note... Crane generally recommends lighter springs for thier cams when they are compared to similar other grinds from other makes. Engle did that too.
 
Yup,thats why I bought the cam.It's a good match to the magnum heads I have and the 360 punched out to 408 would be very happy.In fact this cam came out of a magnum headed 360 la.So it had just enough duration IMHO...

Why did this thread get going??Lol,I made a comment about selling it on ebay and got jumped....
 
You asked opinion of the cam....... if it was me, it's too slow of a rate, then you said if I knew anything, I would pick a cam by lift.......

Actually, the first thing I looked at was timing.........


It's on the cam card... right????

LOL, yeah, it sure is, didn't you read? At 6300 the valves will be floating! Ergh. I had a cam and valvetrain good for 7K, and it wouldn't push 5K. And it wasn't on the card! LOL

I like crane cams, there just is cams out there better fit for our Mopars now. I mean, if you want the most you can get.............
 
Oh, I agree... to a point. While I also like Crane cams alot, alot depends on the build and --- key word coming--- temperment of the build/engine. Moper is right about Cranes approach. There cams tend to idle more smoothly while still haveing a broad power to them.

Being there cams are cut a certain way, they recomend a high compression ratio to there cams than other companyies do when comparing a similar cam. There easier going on valve train parts which translates into a longer lasting system.

The difference in cam rate of lift is small potatos on the street in terms of power but bigger in life span. The system isn't taxed so heavy.
 
You know, I wonder exactly how much of a difference the faster rate makes in valvetrain wear, I mean, look at the roller motors. They seem to last as long as the slow rate flat tappet cams. Lt1 chevs are going 400K, no valvtrain issues on weak *** chevy gear.

I do believe everyone but comp slows the rate down on the last few degrees when the valve is closing to prevent premature wear tho.

Food for thought from someone who has put over 200K on engines in trucks with over 500 lift.
 
Yes, all cams slow down a bit on closeing the valves. Opening can be as quick as you can get it. The newer engines should last longer than older ones or sooooomebody didn't learn there lessons. LOL

Key to many mile engines is fresh fluid and cool running.
Key to long valve train life is another ball of wax. The roller cams can cover 2 bases at once by compare to the older cams.

Ya gotta love the advancements made in these areas. Hollowed cams, better metals for componets, rollerized, it's great. Makes our old iron better and last longer.
 
The reason you cant use duration to compare cams from maker to maker is that they all measure using different start and stop points.


How can I have valve float at idle? If it can happen at any rpm it's more like harmonics.

Valve float is most accurately described as when the springs are overcome by high engine speeds.

So when comparing cams from the same manufacturer you could use duration.
 
The reason you cant use duration to compare cams from maker to maker is that they all measure using different start and stop points.
That's what .050 is for. Compareing the advertised, you have to look at the points and understand what or how much a difference .004 and .006 will make.
I keep this in mind when looking at cams for what kind of rate of lift they have, but that is only part of the story.


How can I have valve float at idle? If it can happen at any rpm it's more like harmonics.
Your answer is your on description below.

Valve float is most accurately described as when the springs are overcome by high engine speeds.
Ummmmm, yeeeees, but, since springs have a life span and wear out, get weaker, the ceiling of the RPM limit drops. So metal fatigue is an issue. Fast rate cams will wear on a spring harder.

So when comparing cams from the same manufacturer you could use duration.
YES! Absoultely! Now comparing manufaturer vs. manufacturer, you gotta have a decently good understanding of this whole thing. Like I said above, the difference between measureing a cam at .004 and .006 even on the same cam will or should show a big difference. Now how big is also dependent of the cams profile. What it is used for. Nevermind manufacture to manufacturer. But it still applies.

IF I had a machine to measure such super small things, I'd ask everybody to send me a cam to measure so I could post the results.
That would be interesting.
 
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