So I put a new timing set on the slant and short cut the timing cover gasket so it leaked. Never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it over, right? So now I'm pulling the oil pan too and doing them both right. When I got the timing cover off I noticed the chain didn't look straight. Looked around the crank gear and saw about 1/16" of shiny shaft behind it. Thought when I pulled the damper in it would push the crank gear down too? The crank gear slid on about half way with a couple of light taps so I finished installing the cover and then, slowly and carefully, pulled the damper in with the crank bolt until it wouldn't go anymore and the pulleys all lined up. Is there a tool to install the crank gear? What do you guys do? Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
Crank gear not seated.
- Thread starter sargentrs
- Start date
-
famous bob
mopar misfit
I`ve got a piece of 1 1/2" alum. pipe I use to fit over the crank and drive it on till it`s seated .--bob
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If the dampener won't pull the lower sprocket (it is not a gear) on, there is something SERIOUSLY wrong, it should not be that tight
However I always make sure it is seated BEFORE putting the cover on. None of mine have every been so tight that a light tap with a punch (or the above pipe) would seat them right down.
However I always make sure it is seated BEFORE putting the cover on. None of mine have every been so tight that a light tap with a punch (or the above pipe) would seat them right down.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I would not ever use anything to tap or hammer it in place. The thrust bearing has to take the hammering load and you don't want to damage that and have other issues; the thrust faces are soft. Use a 3/4"x16TPI bolt to draw it down; get a 1.5" and a 2" bolt and you can use it on the damper too. A big washer under the bolt head pushing on a short piece of pipe as Bob mentions will push the sprocket on.
Also, use some fine wetordry sandpaper or crocous cloth to smooth the crank snout and that will help.
Also, use some fine wetordry sandpaper or crocous cloth to smooth the crank snout and that will help.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That depends on the hammer size, because it has to move the entire crankshaft quite hard to hurt the thrust surfaces.
Not totally dissing what you are saying there, but a hammer less than 16 0z isn't going to move the crankshaft much, if at all.
Example:
Put the end of a crankshaft close to a wall and put your hand between the end of the crank and the wall, then hit the other end of the crank HARD with a 16oz hammer and see how your hand feels about that.
I'd put my hand in there and let you hit that crank as hard as you wanted.
It's not going to hurt you, because it has to move the entire weight of the crankshaft enough to do it, and it just won't.
I sure wouldn't let you use a 3lb hammer though.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Not really true; if the crank moves back a bit at a time until the rear thrust face is against the main web and cap, then the next blow is all absorbed in the thrust bearing. That is the case you describe with your hand hard between the crank and the wall, that will hurt as you say.
I would not ever advise anyone on an open internet forum to do something that MAY damage things without adequate cautions, qualifiers, etc. In this case, a 16 oz hammer if used hard enough or enough times will move the crank back to the thrust face contact. I don't want to try to advise anyone on how many times or how soft the use of a 16 oz hammer needs to be to not damage anything.
I would not ever advise anyone on an open internet forum to do something that MAY damage things without adequate cautions, qualifiers, etc. In this case, a 16 oz hammer if used hard enough or enough times will move the crank back to the thrust face contact. I don't want to try to advise anyone on how many times or how soft the use of a 16 oz hammer needs to be to not damage anything.
You could always try using a wood "stake" as a punch to hammer on the crank gear. It will absorb some of the impact.
At the engine factory we used a hydraulic cylinder to press the crank gear on.
We also used a pneumatic cylinder to set the thrust bearing by hitting the crank back and forth a few times to seat the thrust bearing fore/aft by hammering it back and forth with sharp hits. It won't hurt the thrust bearing to give it a few taps - it's designed to take load.
Many of the small blocks that I've built have had a bearing that you could press on by hand, others are a little tighter.
If you don't want to use too much force to seat the crank gear, then maybe take it off and "dust" the ID with sandpaper a little to loosen up the fit, but then clean the chips off before installing to the engine...
At the engine factory we used a hydraulic cylinder to press the crank gear on.
We also used a pneumatic cylinder to set the thrust bearing by hitting the crank back and forth a few times to seat the thrust bearing fore/aft by hammering it back and forth with sharp hits. It won't hurt the thrust bearing to give it a few taps - it's designed to take load.
Many of the small blocks that I've built have had a bearing that you could press on by hand, others are a little tighter.
If you don't want to use too much force to seat the crank gear, then maybe take it off and "dust" the ID with sandpaper a little to loosen up the fit, but then clean the chips off before installing to the engine...
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
In any case, I hope the OP's new timing chain helps out the car, and the leaks get fixed.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
If we ever meet in person people are going to wonder what the heck is going on when I ask if you brought the crankshaft because I brought the hammer.
Timing chain did steady out the timing and I've finished the timing cover and oil pan gasket installations. Came a hard rain when I took it for a test run so I pulled it in the garage overnight to check for leaks in the morning. Thanks!
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Nooooo you are not touching my crankshaft!!! LOLIf we ever meet in person people are going to wonder what the heck is going on when I ask if you brought the crankshaft because I brought the hammer.
Get a 3 pound sledge and beat it on like a cave man.
weaverjsnw
Well-Known Member
I heated the gear in a gas bbq and was still a bit tight. My crank isn't threaded for a bolt so both the gear and dampner have to be pressed on...
-
