Crank pulley/balancer issue

-
dru34

dru34

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
75
Reaction score
4
Location
perry, ga
Ok finally got the scamp running good 318/904 has after market crank 3 groove pulley. Car drives/rides great, idles good no noise. However I noticed while pushing the throttle On the carb the crank pulley will go straight out about 1/4 inch and then return when release throttle, what in the heck does that mean? As soon as I noticed I cut engine off and now have a oil leak develop right behind the balancer. Is it main seal? Is my balancer not seated? Crank bolt loose? OView attachment image.jpg.
 
does the balancer and everything move away from the motor when you hit the throttle?

bad thrust bearing?
 
abodyjoe said:
does the balancer and everything move away from the motor when you hit the throttle?

bad thrust bearing?
Click to expand...

Ill have to go back out there and look, will I further damage stuff if I go out there and check it by running it?
 
I would determine the true problem first before buying parts. Unlikely the crankshaft is damaged and certainly wouldn't be the culprit. If real lucky, the crank damper is just on loose, but unlikely since they are pressed on. If nothing obvious like that, next step is to jack up the engine ~2" (remove motor mounts and support on K-frame w/ wood blocks), then remove oil pan (drain first). The problem should then be obvious. If just a thrust bearing problem, I think all bearings plus the rear seal can be changed from underneath. Before doing that, insure a full rebuild wouldn't be smarter by checking compression.
 
BillGrissom said:
I would determine the true problem first before buying parts. Unlikely the crankshaft is damaged and certainly wouldn't be the culprit. If real lucky, the crank damper is just on loose, but unlikely since they are pressed on. If nothing obvious like that, next step is to jack up the engine ~2" (remove motor mounts and support on K-frame w/ wood blocks), then remove oil pan (drain first). The problem should then be obvious. If just a thrust bearing problem, I think all bearings plus the rear seal can be changed from underneath. Before doing that, insure a full rebuild wouldn't be smarter by checking compression.
Click to expand...


ok ill drop the oil pan next thanks Bill.
 
I think you need to inspect the thrust main bearing and crank. My 360 had the same symptoms .My engine had bad crank rod hitting crank so worn it broke the converter and trans pump.trying to post pics
 
BillGrissom said:
I would determine the true problem first before buying parts. Unlikely the crankshaft is damaged and certainly wouldn't be the culprit. If real lucky, the crank damper is just on loose, but unlikely since they are pressed on. If nothing obvious like that, next step is to jack up the engine ~2" (remove motor mounts and support on K-frame w/ wood blocks), then remove oil pan (drain first). The problem should then be obvious. If just a thrust bearing problem, I think all bearings plus the rear seal can be changed from underneath. Before doing that, insure a full rebuild wouldn't be smarter by checking compression.
Click to expand...

To lift the motor 2" do I need to unbolt/unhook anything else besides the motor mounts(I have Schumacher 318 swap kit)?
 
bad thrust bearing, another thought; why would you put an aluminum pulley dress up kit on that greasy old worn out engine for?
 
dru34 said:
To lift the motor 2" do I need to unbolt/unhook anything else besides the motor mounts(I have Schumacher 318 swap kit)?
Click to expand...
I lifted my 273 at least 2" while changing motor mounts and removing the pan and timing cover. I may not have had the distributor in then. At least remove its cap for clearance. One trick, my 273 block has a ~0.75" hole on the bottom front (outside the oil pan) that aligns with a triangle hole thru my K-frame. I had a 1/2"D steel rod about 24"L that fit in the hole to my floor jack which makes lifting easy and secure. The rods were bought to load my garage door torsion springs (48"L at Ace Hardware). I might have used a jack on rod on the other side (under a mount ear?) at the same time (forget). I supported the engine on short 2x4 wood blocks to the K-frame while painting and such.
 
If that engine used to have a standard behind it you can bet the thrust bearing is shot, but my money is still on the thrust bearing, how many miles is on the engine? also the pulley bolts being loose wouldn't give you a oil leak the crank bolt would have to be loose for the balancer to move out and I doubt it would go back in place when you let off the gas, the way a bad thrust bearing would.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top