Crimping Tool

[RogerRamRod]

You know what is kind of funny; I am pretty good at welding, but I suck at soldering. Maybe I should find some videos on YouTube and just practice.

Get electronics solder from a supplier like Allied (now RS) https://us.rs-online.com/product/mg-chemicals/4890-18g/70125701/

Get your iron hot then wipe it clean on a copper scrubby pad then melt a little solder on the tip before you try to heat your connection. You can also wipe it on a damp sponge, but dry copper is better for the tip.
You need a really clean tip and a lot of people have grungy looking stuff that just gets everything hot, but doesn't melt the solder. You might even need a new tip if its all corroded and misshapen.
Wipe tip and apply solder just about every time you are going to do a new connection.
Use the solder "puddle" on the tip to heat the wires, then apply the solder and watch it wick into the joint.

 

[Woody500]

You know what is kind of funny; I am pretty good at welding, but I suck at soldering. Maybe I should find some videos on YouTube and just practice.

Can you Braze? It melts/flows very similar & with newer digital temp readouts on solder pens now, even easier to get heat right. I still used old stick, plug in types with black wood handles, in several different sizes from small tip, (like you'd need), to square lump of copper for high heat. Also have ones you have to heat with a torch or other.
Use the right flux & heat to get to it to flow properly.
Forget Solder Guns. Most suck.
Roger Ram Rods' description good!

 

[harrisonm]

Get electronics solder from a supplier like Allied (now RS) https://us.rs-online.com/product/mg-chemicals/4890-18g/70125701/

Get your iron hot then wipe it clean on a copper scrubby pad then melt a little solder on the tip before you try to heat your connection. You can also wipe it on a damp sponge, but dry copper is better for the tip.
You need a really clean tip and a lot of people have grungy looking stuff that just gets everything hot, but doesn't melt the solder. You might even need a new tip if its all corroded and misshapen.
Wipe tip and apply solder just about every time you are going to do a new connection.
Use the solder "puddle" on the tip to heat the wires, then apply the solder and watch it wick into the joint.

Thanks. You and @Woody500 have inspired me to work on it. I guess the rosin is inside the solder you recommend. I will definitely have to buy a new soldering iron. I have been using mine to do plastic soldering. Any recommendations on an iron?
Thanks

 

[Mattax]

double wides

I don't specifically recall. By the time I bought the terminals specifically made for two side by side wires, I had already purchased the copy of the Packard crimper for them.
The two wire terminal connections I made before getting those terminals were not an issue with the Astro as best I can recall. In fact on the reproduction wire harness, that's what M&H had done - made the two wire junction with a standard terminal.

It may be worth experimenting with some extra terminals and some wire scraps. Maybe the innermost position on the H jaws?
View attachment 1715752170

Maybe first eyeball the fit like this
View attachment 1715752171


Packard type crimper made for the wider F-crimp.
View attachment 1715752172
see Lets Talk Open Barrel Crimpers - Reviews and Discussion

 

[Woody500]

double wides

Tool Junkie me says I need a pair of those Astro Crimpers! Also electrician me.
Summit has them! Great!

 

[RogerRamRod]

Thanks. You and @Woody500 have inspired me to work on it. I guess the rosin is inside the solder you recommend. I will definitely have to buy a new soldering iron. I have been using mine to do plastic soldering. Any recommendations on an iron?
Thanks

Personally I have a couple crappy Radio Shack soldering pencils, a 25 watt, & a 40.
I borrow the nice Weller WESD51 from work, It has adjustable temp, and we keep a separate holder/cleaning station and a lighted magnifier with adjustable holding arms. That model is discontinued, but they have others.
They make some that don't have adjustable temperature that run a little less $. You can change out tips for different jobs too.
Amazon has some "offshore" options that look pretty complete for 40ish, a current Weller is around 100-150

 

[70dart340]

I have that adjustable Weller model. It's easy to dial in the exact temperature needed, even for fire wire. Buy once, cry once.

 

[Mattax]

Tool Junkie me says I need a pair of those Astro Crimpers! Also electrician me.
Summit has them! Great!

It was good for many but not all terminals (esp the male Packards with 'wings'). I thought the optional jaws for making spark plug wire crimps worked pretty good.

 

[harrisonm]

I have that adjustable Weller model. It's easy to dial in the exact temperature needed, even for fire wire. Buy once, cry once.

If you can afford it, truer words were never spoken. I have been painting cars for about 45 years now. I'm just a hobbyist, but I've gotten pretty good at it. I have always used medium to lower prices Devilbis guns with pretty good results. A few years ago, it was time for a new gun. I did the buy once, cry once thing and bought an Iwata Supernova gun. I hated to spend the money, but what a Cadillac. It does such an amazing job.

 

[RogerRamRod]

I have that adjustable Weller model. It's easy to dial in the exact temperature needed, even for fire wire. Buy once, cry once.

We have a really mice Metcal unit at work too, if you want to bawl like a baby. Way overkill for a home hobbyist, but it had no problem with 2/0 welding wire after I crimped the lugs for my starter. (I hope I don't end up regretting that)

 

[mopowers]

It was good for many but not all terminals (esp the male Packards with 'wings'). I thought the optional jaws for making spark plug wire crimps worked pretty good.

Those have always been the toughest to crimp for me. Those wings definitely get in the way for all three open barrel crimp tools I own, plus they're thick as hell and are a bear to get a good crimp. The cheap tools just won't do it for those.

 

[Woody500]

We have a really mice Metcal unit at work too, if you want to bawl like a baby. Way overkill for a home hobbyist, but it had no problem with 2/0 welding wire after I crimped the lugs for my starter. (I hope I don't end up regretting that)

Solder a much better connection for large cables. Slide heat shrink or boot on wire first. Don't strip back too long.
Get correct flux, dont overheat. Tinning both lug & wire helps that, as less heat needed to make it flow then. Also less solder needed to be assured of the good connection.
Clean before(flux usually enough)and after. Baking soda neutralizes after. Also P-clamp wire or another type of strain relief is best for longevity & vibration.
Using Crimp style? Just fill void partially with solder & slip in tinned wire, hold till solid. May need glove.
Use snug fitting lugs is best.

 

[Dartswinger70]

Yeah you want a crimp tool man the needle nose thing is for kids who dont know...lemme tell ya about crimping with needle nose...

 

[crackedback]

I crimp my battery cables, no solder ever in those connections. I used to solder all larger cables, no more.
Solder is not a better conductor, induces heat into the strands (not good), makes for a brittle connection.

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

Pick your parts, pay your money. Same as here with approach, pick it and go.

 

[Woody500]

I crimp my battery cables, no solder ever in those connections. I used to solder all larger cables, no more.
Solder is not a better conductor, induces heat into the strands (not good), makes for a brittle connection.

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

Pick your parts, pay your money. Same as here with approach, pick it and go.

Why is so much really high quality wire tinned then?
Sorry. The brittleness was caused by too much heat & or, no strain relief. Never had a failure Marine, race car & military stuff all goes thru vibration 100% of the time

 

[Jim Kueneman]

It's called a B Crimp. Klein and Knipex both make jaws in various sizes for their ratcheting tools. I use the heck out of mine. It's pleasing to do and it really holds the wires tightly.

View attachment 1716434876

That is as good as you can get until you spend $500+ on a real mil-spec set.