Cuda sits to high after PST Torsion bar install

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Andre68

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I just recently installed the PST 1.03 torsion bars into my barracuda. Im kinda going for that pro touring look, and while skimming through there catalog I noticed these where geared more towards that lowered stance or stock height.

I installed these as I would any regular torsion bar install (aside from removing the bump stop), once i lowered the car it sat too high. I even backed the bolt off until there was very little tension, even no tension on the adjuster, and the car still sat high.

I was really hoping for more of lowered stance. Now I know that there is an 18" wheel on there with 245/45/18 tire on it, and that the car is currently empty as it is being built. Im sure after the weight and bouncing it around some it would lower more, but im not there yet in my build, and I need to find away to get it to "actual" ride height.

I tried to jack up the LCA and insert the torsion bar then to change the position to hopefully then, lower the ride height, but the the car began to lift up from the suspension before it got to a point to install the torsion bar.

If anyone has any tips, that would be awesome! Or is this the lowest attainable ride height with my set up?

1.03 PST torsion bars, 64 cuda, 73+ disc conversion, addco sway bar, 245/45/18R
 
As you can tell in the photo there is some rub on the fender from my quick mock up, which is why I would like to find the ride height so I know exactly how much to cut and where.
 

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You don't have the weight of the drivetrain in the car so setting ride height is pointless. Get the car together then adjust the torsion bars.
 
My 1.03s require very little preload to get to ride height. You may need to install the drivetrain to actually put some preload on them , or put some 450 plus pounds on the K. Maybe get some BIG buds to stand on the K to see what I mean. Dont ditch the 1.03s unless you just cant get what you need. They,IMHO,are the minimum size for street bombing with a small block.
EDIT
ike OmR bellow says; I cant see those wheels and fenders playing well together.
 
Andre, that's beautiful work you've done so far, and while I'm no pro touring suspension guy by any means, I can't fathom the amount of work that will be required on those fenders with another 5/600lbs planted on that front end? I actually think you'll need to jack those bars way up to keep what little clearance you have now once all the hardware is installed?

Good luck with it, I have no doubt it will be sweet in the end. I'm going to subscribe to this thread, cause I can't wait to see the finished product! :thumbrig:
 
Totally agree. You can't really do anything until engine, transmission, sheet metal, radiator, interior, windshield etc., etc., etc are all on. That will be a lot of weight.
 
As it's been stated, you need the weight of the drive train, when I pulled my slant 6, with stock bars, my dart raised up probably 3-4 inches or more.
 
and even with all the weight on it you'll need a proper alignment to see where/if the tires actually hit.
 
The problem isn't the torsion bars! The problem is that your wheel tire combo is 3" taller than the car was designed for! By running the right diameter tire, your car would be 1.5" lower than it's sitting right now! By the time you hack up the fenders and adjust the Tbars enough to get it where it's close to being low enough, you'll have no suspension travel and the geometry will be junk. If you wanna go low with a static drop, 2" drop spindles are mandatory!

This car has 2" drop spindles and 1.03" Tbars from PST. Even at this height I've still got over an inch until I touch the factory bump stops!

image_zps3rs16gma.jpg

image_zpsp6ussfta.jpg
 
The PST catalog is wrong, as they changed the offset on the bars to the stock 30 degree but didn't update the catalog to reflect this. (so even though it says for lowering, they are no longer capable of or made for doing it.)

Just for kicks, look at thier website and what it says about them, and you will see they updated it there. (but not in the catalog)
 
vntned; Read post #1
The clocking of the hex ends precludes this. You have to install them with the suspension at full droop, and may even have to undo the shock or trim the upper bumpstop to get the bars in. And thats with no preload on the adjusters. Then when you put the car down, even with the the car fully assembled, the ride height is at most 1 inch lower than stock with still no preload on the adjusters. I think Mine have 1/2T on the right, and 3/4 to 1T on the left. My K is IIRC,5.75 from the pavement with 25 inch tires.
The OP is running almost 27 inchers. That would put his front end at or near to stock bumper height with no preload on the adjusters. However the lower control arms will be on, or near to on, the bump stops.
-Like I said, those wheels will not play nice with those fenders.Well I suppose you could raise the rear, but thats not the look the OPs after.
-Really, the backspace on those wheels could be a lot more; maybe 2 or more inches more. Once the car is assembled, the ride height may come around. Mine did, barely.With aluminum heads and intake, Aluminum bellhouse and trans case, P/S, P/B, TTIs, and their heavy dual 3 inch exhaust, and a 23# GearVendor.
 
alright cool, thanks for all the posts, I kinda figured i needed the drive train in the vehicle. which leads to plan 2 of my build set up.

thanks FABO, and off to the journey this car takes me!
 
The design that we currently make will allow for stock or lowered stance. It is a matter of the tension on the adjuster. We have customers that have them at stock or lower. But most of the time the customer that have the lowered vehicle attain that through drop spindles to not sacrifice ride quality. But I am not saying that you can't lower the car by backing off on the adjusters.

Thanks
James
 
PST said:
The design that we currently make will allow for stock or lowered stance. It is a matter of the tension on the adjuster. We have customers that have them at stock or lower. But most of the time the customer that have the lowered vehicle attain that through drop spindles to not sacrifice ride quality. But I am not saying that you can't lower the car by backing off on the adjusters.

Thanks
James
Click to expand...

Hey James,
I backed my adjusters off all the way to the blocks and I guess it was at about stock.
Kind of had to guess on that because I run 70/15's
73 Swinger, 318, 904 so I guess with a bigger motor it would sit a little lower.

Love em

Thanks
 
The op is simply trying to cram the wrong size wheel and tire combo with the wrong backspacing under a car with essentially a stock suspension. It's just not gonna work. When your talking about such an aggressive fitment you can't just shoot from the hip. Lots of time needs to be spent doing your research and measuring to see what will work. With 2" spacers in the front, it's quite obvious that the wheels were purchased without seeing if they'd fit.

At this point the fix is either to hack up what appears to be a very nice car just to get the wheels to "fit", or use those wheels to do some proper measuring and figure out what wheel will actually fit properly and allow a good stance with out resorting to rigging. In the end you'll be much happier having spent a few extra dollars and having the car look amazing and perform as it should!
 
vntned said:
The problem isn't the torsion bars! The problem is that your wheel tire combo is 3" taller than the car was designed for! By running the right diameter tire, your car would be 1.5" lower than it's sitting right now! By the time you hack up the fenders and adjust the Tbars enough to get it where it's close to being low enough, you'll have no suspension travel and the geometry will be junk. If you wanna go low with a static drop, 2" drop spindles are mandatory!

This car has 2" drop spindles and 1.03" Tbars from PST. Even at this height I've still got over an inch until I touch the factory bump stops!


Click to expand...
i love the stance of your 64 dart. i am currently working on one with my grandson and was looking for some ideas. 2 inch dropped spindles is the answer without compromising the ride. thanks for the pics.
 
andrea68
re your ride hight on yur 68 .you cannot set the ride hight with no engine,trans.in the car all weight must be on the torsenbars before you can set ride hight.even if ride hight is correct when yu jack up the car with the front wheels off the ground ,the suspension becomes unloaded and stretches out .you must put car on the ground take it for a spin around block then set the ride hight. good luck.
:burnout:
 
vntned said:
The problem isn't the torsion bars! The problem is that your wheel tire combo is 3" taller than the car was designed for! By running the right diameter tire, your car would be 1.5" lower than it's sitting right now! By the time you hack up the fenders and adjust the Tbars enough to get it where it's close to being low enough, you'll have no suspension travel and the geometry will be junk. If you wanna go low with a static drop, 2" drop spindles are mandatory!

This car has 2" drop spindles and 1.03" Tbars from PST. Even at this height I've still got over an inch until I touch the factory bump stops!

View attachment 1715120675
View attachment 1715120676
Click to expand...

dude, this is the first confirmation that I might have done the right thing. I did 2" drops on my 66cuda. now the tired old 0.81 bars are maxed out. she is getting PST 1.03's for Christmas, and i'm on here trying to determine if I am messing up, or on the right track.
 
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