Cummings long-block purchase.

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Can you provide a link to the coolent kit?

Right now im trying to figure out what this rebuild or repair will cost me.

Are there any other aftermarket parts that are recommended when working on one of these?

I plan on staying stock power levels but I do want to do this right.

Thank you again for your time and advice.
dukeboy_318 said:
It’s basically a pressure imbalance due to the design of the new head for the Common rail, there’s a coolant kit that you can buy for around 350 bucks that will solve the issue.
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Cope said:
Can you provide a link to the coolent kit?

Right now im trying to figure out what this rebuild or repair will cost me.

Are there any other aftermarket parts that are recommended when working on one of these?

I plan on staying stock power levels but I do want to do this right.

Thank you again for your time and advice.
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Sure give me a bit
 
From everything I've read unless you plan on boosting over 30psi the factory head bolts are good, over that need the ARP stud kit which run $400+ . to bad you can't go full delete on it, that alone wakes these trucks up. I glad I did my 14 Ram course up here theres no smog laws, power and fuel mileage jumped way up.
 
Matts440 said:
From everything I've read unless you plan on boosting over 30psi the factory head bolts are good, over that need the ARP stud kit which run $400+ . to bad you can't go full delete on it, that alone wakes these trucks up. I glad I did my 14 Ram course up here theres no smog laws, power and fuel mileage jumped way up.
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There’s a Canadian made competitor called Xotic performance that makes studs for them now. ARP studs for a Cummins are pushing $500-600 depending on which kit.

The Canadian ones have actually been performing better than the ARP stuff for half the price. My buddy that sled pulls professionally still steered me towards them. They did a stretch to breakage test. They go thru head studs often cause they’re rebuilding every few pulls.
 
These engines are so easy to rebuild with your skills you would have no problem . i'v done at least a dozen and done many killer dowel pin fixes . get a cummins service manual and have at it . No harder than a slant 6 to rebuild just heaver .
 
I'm starting to lean towards just fixing mine.

Help me make a list of desirable and or recommend aftermarket parts.

1. Coolent bypass kit.
2. Turbo (stock or aftermarket?)
3. Head studs? (I'm not planning on upping boost or power past stock numbers.)
4. Fix killer dowel pin
5. ????

What else should I be budgeting for?

Thanks again folks. With out you guys I'd be lost.
 
I would say unless you find something absolutely detrimental, it can be rebuilt. They're tough. It's just like I said before, if the down time is something you can stand, a rebuild is what I would do.
 
Cope said:
I'm starting to lean towards just fixing mine.

Help me make a list of desirable and or recommend aftermarket parts.

1. Coolent bypass kit.
2. Turbo (stock or aftermarket?)
3. Head studs? (I'm not planning on upping boost or power past stock numbers.)
4. Fix killer dowel pin
5. ????

What else should I be budgeting for?

Thanks again folks. With out you guys I'd be lost.
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The killer dowel pin is only an issue on the 12v engines, so you’re good there.
 
Cope said:
I'm starting to lean towards just fixing mine.

Help me make a list of desirable and or recommend aftermarket parts.

1. Coolent bypass kit.
2. Turbo (stock or aftermarket?)
3. Head studs? (I'm not planning on upping boost or power past stock numbers.)
4. Fix killer dowel pin
5. ????

What else should I be budgeting for?

Thanks again folks. With out you guys I'd be lost.
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What’s your plan? Like use wise?

I would head stud it no matter what. Even if your stock power and boost.

Turbo I’d stick with the stock Holset if you’re not adding injectors or a programmer.

If you’re staying stock, I’d focus on the weak areas of the Cummins.

The coolant kit,
KDP(killer dowel pin)
Cummins head gasket set
New dowel pin for the block to head (removing the head sometimes jacks up those dowel pins so i always replace them cause they’re cheap)
Head studs
FASS or Airdog lift pump and or filter and pump combo.
Fuel pressure and EGT gauge.
ATS or BD aftermarket exhaust manifold(common rail factory ones are known to warp over time)
 
Cope said:
I'm starting to lean towards just fixing mine.

Help me make a list of desirable and or recommend aftermarket parts.

1. Coolent bypass kit.
2. Turbo (stock or aftermarket?)
3. Head studs? (I'm not planning on upping boost or power past stock numbers.)
4. Fix killer dowel pin
5. ????

What else should I be budgeting for?

Thanks again folks. With out you guys I'd be lost.
Click to expand...
the link i posted in my 1st post on this thread is a forum dedicated to 6bt cummins engines like this forum we on dedicated to A bodys!! it has lots of useful info on the different models of 6bts and what parts work best!! liston to Dukeboy_318 on the killer dowl pin cause it will kill a 6bt quick! and he right gaskets only use cummins head gaskets!! the aftermarket rebuild kits are fine just dont use there head sets, but cummins premium+ parts are the best! 4bt and 6bt engine some of the best cummins ever built, alot better than needed in a pick up truck!!
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's what I love about the 6BT engines. They're a carbon copy of the OTR size engines, just smaller. You'd be hard pressed to find a better design.
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there similer, but there different, some use the pt pump like a big cam, some use the p700 pump thats inline, but none of the 6bts come with press fit wet liners like the bigger engines or the water buffalo charge air cooler i dont think a 6bt got the external oil cooler ether but im not 100% on that,..still one hell of a great power plant that can make insane hp when built right!!
 
dirty white boy said:
there similer, but there different, some use the pt pump like a big cam, some use the p700 pump thats inline, but none of the 6bts come with press fit wet liners like the bigger engines or the water buffalo charge air cooler i dont think a 6bt got the external oil cooler ether but im not 100% on that,..still one hell of a great power plant that can make insane hp when built right!!
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I can tell you this. The 6BT makes the Powerstroke (pick one) look like a tinker toy when torn down. There's simply no comparison. The Duraslack isn't even on par with the Powerstroke. Duraslacks look like gas motors torn apart.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I can tell you this. The 6BT makes the Powerstroke (pick one) look like a tinker toy when torn down. There's simply no comparison. The Duraslack isn't even on par with the Powerstroke. Duraslacks look like gas motors torn apart.
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go to a tractor pull or truck pull youll see plenty of 6bts, them other brands of pick up diesels not so much!! tuffer than a slant 6 and strong nuff for anything up to a class 7 truck!!
 
dirty white boy said:
there similer, but there different, some use the pt pump like a big cam, some use the p700 pump thats inline, but none of the 6bts come with press fit wet liners like the bigger engines or the water buffalo charge air cooler i dont think a 6bt got the external oil cooler ether but im not 100% on that,..still one hell of a great power plant that can make insane hp when built right!!
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Some did. Depends on application. I worked in Cummins CAD design department
 
75slant6 said:
The killer dowel pin is only an issue on the 12v engines, so you’re good there.
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Early 24 valves have that issue as well. Cummins updated the timing cover design in late 1999, but I’ve seen KDP issues on common rails and even the 6.7, albeit much fewer. Still he’s got it apart and the kits stupid cheap so May as well
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Early 24 valves have that issue as well. Cummins updated the timing cover design in late 1999, but I’ve seen KDP issues on common rails and even the 6.7, albeit much fewer. Still he’s got it apart and the kits stupid cheap so May as well
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Interesting. I was under the impression that they solved that issue with the 24v and never looked back
 
75slant6 said:
Interesting. I was under the impression that they solved that issue with the 24v and never looked back
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Nope. Cause honestly, they didn’t even know it was an issue by the time the 24V was in production. The KDP typically doesn’t show up much until the mileage got higher, the 24 Valve was actually designed 5 years prior to its release in 1998. And due to supply chain issues with the VP pumps, pushed back until mid 1998. Most of your 12 valves which used a similar front timing cover as the 24 valves hadn’t hit that mileage yet. It wasn’t until the warranty numbers started creeping up that Cummins became aware of it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I've heard that from more than one reliable source....and now another. You.
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I have used Mahle with good results for head gaskets but I’ve seen others including cometic have issues.
 
Bennoel 10 said:
I believe the KDP issue is from 1989 to 2004 which involves 24 valve engines as well.
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Yeah but it really became obvious when people started playing with the fuel ramp plates in the p7100 series pumps of the 94-98.5 12 Valves.
 
I should have the truck here by Monday. I will pull it apart and fund the failure point as I have time.

I am very excited to build / repair / modify this truck with you folks.


Thank you for your time and advice.
 
is it a pt pump or p700 inline pump? if you want more power send pump and injectors to primco in lampassas tx there the best and affordable! then turn up rail pressure 20ish lbs, then step up the turbo,..retard cam a few degrees an shell pull stumps by god!!
 
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