custom dash need wiring help

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plymouth73

plymouth73

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hello mopar fans,

I own a 1973 Plymouth scamp. I built a custom dash with all new gauges . my problem is I am not using the stock gauge cluster and power ran through it to complete a circuit . so the most simple way for me to ask is how can I wire up my car without using the stock gauge cluster? again lol I am deleting the stock gauge cluster so how do I connect the wires from the cluster to run my car ?

thanks for all help and input.
 
Well, "depends" on what gauges you have.

But if you are interfacing to the stock Mopar harness the answers are in the factory service manuals

You can download them free

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

73 was a "big change" in the service manual wiring section (8) for the A bodies. For the first time the "new style" diagrams were printed. It takes some getting used to

Start page 8-152, and read that. NOTICE that "CI-(numeral) means "Connector," "Instrument" and an arbitrary number

Notice the index refers you to page 167, go there (8-168)

Notice the diagrams of connectors

Just down from the top, at far right, notice "PC board connector" CI-14

There are a couple of ways to attack this, and you might need both. If you post a GOOD CLEAR photo of the rear of your cluster you can FOLLOW the PC board traces just by looking at them.

Go back to page 8-152. Notice the index of various "stuff." Pick "oil pressure indicator" as an example, map ref. "D 6" and find "D 6" in the diagrams

Notice that the oil lamp, the temp and fuel gauge are all shown there. Take the fuel gauge, example.

Notice that on the right hand side of the fuel gage, is "CI-14." This is our old friend the pc board connector. Notice the wire says "G4-18DBL" This is wire "G4" it is 18 gauge, and Dark BLue. Look at the diagram below of "CI-14" Look!!! There's "G4-18DBL" THIS IS your wire on the harness connector, which leads back to the fuel gauge sender!!!
 

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I have the amp wires bolted together and have power to the bulkhead that go's to the cluster but no power to the starter . also I just want to use the wires from the bulkhead to power the turn signal indicators and the bright headlight indicator on my new dash, I have led lights for that. also all my new gauges have there own wiring included the brand is GLOWSHIFT ELITE 10 COLOR SERIES.
 
I now have power to the starter, the problem was my steering wheel, I have it dropped down for removal and installation of dash. I had to turn the steering shaft to the left for the starter to engage.
 
next issue. I have a green wire for the left signal indicator and a tan wire for the right signal indicator, is this correct? if so how do I test them and how can I connect my own led lights for turn signal indicators?
 
I showed you where to get shop manuals free, and how to interpret them. Easy. In that big round connector "used to" go to your cluster. All you need are LEDs set up for 12V. Leds have two terminals, hot and ground. If you hook them up backwards they will not light. (They are a diode just like the name......."light emitting DIODE") If you don't ground them they will not light.

And yes, D9, T for Tan and D10 LGN for Light GreeN are your two wires
 
thank you 67Dart273 . that's what I figured I just cant get power to my test light, I have test light grounded and needle on the light green wire with key on and left signal switched on but test light does not flash. any guesses? could it be because I don't have my signal wires to the taillights connected? thank you for your expertise. I have read a lot of your posts, very informative.
 
my new gauges have a dimmer feature ran by a orange wire , if I connect that wire to the orange wire that went to the cluster the dimmer feature should work correct?
 
The flasher do have to be working. Basically the two indicator lamps branch off the wires going to the front lamps You do have to have the key in "run" for turn signals Since you have the column down, you DO have the signal switch connector hooked up?
 
signal switch connector? do you mean the turn signal cam? everything is connected as far as I see. I could be missing something actually lol I am sure I am missing something. I don't have the wiring going to the back taillights connected if that makes a difference.
 
Man you have GOT to learn to read diagrams. There are two large electrical connectors coming out of the steering column One is for the ignition switch, the other is for your turn signal switch.

Not only do they need to be connected, but you need to check "is the system working?"

You have TWO flashers. One is for the hazards, one is for signal. Normally, you can switch them around. Check for power TO the flasher. Read the diagram. Find the signal switch connector. Check there for power going from the flasher to the signal switch.

This might be "a lot" of things
 

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for some reason my taillights do not come on with head lights and with headlight switch off the taillights are lit up very dim ,I don't understand. I think I will bolt the back bumper onto the car and reassemble the taillights then do more testing.
 
Sounds to me like you are getting power "back there" from something else like the brake switch and the sockets are not grounded

DO NOT go by "they light up." Use your test lamp and or multimeter to find out where you have power.

"Stab" your meter into the side of the lamp socket on the metal shell. Ground the other probe. If you read any voltage, you are not grounding the sockets
 
Idaho, you seem to have quite a bit of patience and electrical knowledge. I still have a few bugs and sub systems left to deal with you wanna come help?
Andrew
 

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Ha ha ha. You look to me as if you might be over my head. Ask away, LOL. Or maybe you were joking. Looks like that has been pretty modernized.
 
67dart273. I figured it out I replaced the Flasher and all is well. The Flasher worked before taking the interior out, and that was only 5 months ago. Anyways I want to thank you for your time it's nice to know there is people like you willing to help a beginner like me.
 
plymouth73 said:
.........there is this a silver tubular thing with three prongs on it under my dash I cant find it on any diagrams that I have. it looks similar to a old style ballast for florescent tube lights, anyways I am wondering what it is and what it is for because it gets really hot when the ignition is in the on position. do you know if that is normal?
Click to expand...

This was cut and pasted from a PM, the photo was sent via email. I cropped it and scaled it down and posted it. The original file was gigantic, LOL

I've decided not to answer this directly. You MUST learn to use the service manual. If you are going to work on these cars you MUST

The clues are

service manual

section 8

Contents on page 8-152

You try this. I'll tell you if you got it
 

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67Dart273 said:
Ha ha ha. You look to me as if you might be over my head. Ask away, LOL. Or maybe you were joking. Looks like that has been pretty modernized.
Click to expand...
Yer s'posed to say: "Sure; let me know when you have my plane tickets, motel suite, and bar and restaurant credit lines all paid up!"
 
Excellent

First you id the connector from the "CI" drawings the top photo is on page 8-168 and it tells you what this is

Then you go to the index on page 8-153 and find that "time delay relay" is on the drawing at D-11

Then you navigate to "D 11" in the drawings and the bottom photo is on page 8-156

See? easy
 

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Do you know why it gets so hot is that normal? I am leaving the doors open as I work on the car. Disconnecting battery between testing.
 
Look at the diagram. It's a time delay. See the wire coming out the left to the "ignition switch lamp?" That is coming off the contacts of the relay. 'time delay relay.'

Now look at the "Y" Yellow wire going into the bottom, the little "squiggly" line and the wire "P" Pink going out the right. Notice the "squiggly line" is CONNECTED to the right hand side of the relay contact internally

That "squiggly line" represents a heating element. That is how it works. When it's powered the heating element heats up a strip inside which is hooked to the contact, just like its draw. This bends the contact arm. When it's UNpowered, the heat goes off, the contact arm cools and bends the other way.

The Yellow coming out the bottom hooks to the dome light switches. When you open a door or turn on the headlight dome switch, this powers up the heater and bends the contact, turning on the lamp. When you close the door, turn off the dome circuit it takes "a few seconds" for the heater to cool back down and open the connection

If you don't want it to heat up while working on the car, just unplug it

See page 8-73 of the service manual
 
Wow you explained that in much detail lol. I just wanted to confirm, so thank you. I don't know why they would tape something that gets that hot what a sticky mess! I will be using zip ties.
 
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