Cutting A833 Input Shaft Question

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I didn’t think of it that way but you are indeed correct. I’ve probably been overthinking this as usual and showing my ignorance. Thanks!
 
Another approach strategy "with a hand drill" would be to drill an UNDERSIZED hole deeper so that you don't need to trip the shaft, and use one of the bearings that fits the larger converter bore. I was "thinking" of doing this on my old While Whale 5.9 that DID NOT have the crank drilled in any way EXCEPT for the converter snout.
 
That is the type of bearing I’m using is the one that goes into the convertor register. I’m a dumb redneck from Wv. But not dumb enough to try and drill a perfect hole that would hold a pilot bushing/bearing laying on my back with a drill. Lol. I wanted to just make the existing hole a little deeper so I didn’t have to remove as much of the shaft
 
^^And further if you want to do this without ruining "what's there" you can screw around and find a piece of tube/ pipe / conduit to use as a bushing to protect the hole that is already there.

What I was contemplating on my 5.9 "drill" was to make a converter bore plug (slip fit) in the lathe, center drill it for pilot and use it to establish center. I could then keep drilling the plug out on the lathe until I got the crank clearance hole done. The crank could have been turned to "full size" later if needed.
 
Just when I deleted all my SB Mopar pictures on this topic !!! I was measureing my 360 motors which both had auto's behind them against my factory 4 speed crank and came to that 1/4 need. Before cutting one for the 833 overdrive I want to put behind - I'll put the bellhousing on the block and put the trans in less pressure plate etc. Then take a look....lucky that motors are out at this time.
 
E Satterfield said:
That is the type of bearing I’m using is the one that goes into the convertor register. I’m a dumb redneck from Wv. But not dumb enough to try and drill a perfect hole that would hold a pilot bushing/bearing laying on my back with a drill. Lol. I wanted to just make the existing hole a little deeper so I didn’t have to remove as much of the shaft
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Yes, use the roller bearing in the torque converter register. Install it, carefully measure how much to cut and do it. The shaft only needs to be long enough to go through the new bearing.

After cutting, grind a lead-in chamfer on the end of the shaft like the original.

Some of the pictures show drilled but not reamed holes. Reaming for pilot bushings may actually have been done on the assembly line.

Nice car by the way!
 
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The top photo is a factory drilled standard steel crank and the bottom is a 360 auto cast crank using a factory input shaft off a four speed for measurements I used - which is a little pitted for use.....maybe this might help or not.....
 
Thank you everyone who contributed. I really appreciate the input. The project is finished other than a road test. But who knows when that will be? Living in rural Wv the driving time is limited on these cars due to bad weather rain/snow etc.

I’ve included a few pics of the install. I ended up taking about 1-1/4 off the total length of the shaft and if my measurements are correct and I checked them at least a 100 times. I should be just through the register mounted pilot bearing . Thanks Again. Eric.

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Hopefully I'll be doing the same in the next week or so. Everything is disconnected for my auto, just need to find time to slide it out and get the manual in it's place. I'm hoping my crank is drilled though, but if it's not, I have the same bearing you used on hand to go the same route.
 
E Satterfield said:
Thank you everyone who contributed. I really appreciate the input. The project is finished other than a road test. But who knows when that will be? Living in rural Wv the driving time is limited on these cars due to bad weather rain/snow etc.

I’ve included a few pics of the install. I ended up taking about 1-1/4 off the total length of the shaft and if my measurements are correct and I checked them at least a 100 times. I should be just through the register mounted pilot bearing . Thanks Again. Eric.

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Where are you in WV?
 
Trim the input shaft and be done with it. I have done many with no issues. One of the problems you eill run into drilling the crank is that they are HARD. Especially a 4340 aftermarket unit.
 
Daves69 said:
Measure twice before you cut. You want the input taper beyond the bearing but not bottoming on the crank, maybe .125" clearance.

If it helps, this is what I found on a 440 crank in a block. The depths were measured with my Starett as best I could from the END of the crank.
Use at your own risk.

Concerning the diagram below, in a Brewers Performance diagram I've seen, I believe the 2.225 " depth is all the way to the drill point. It may well be the better dimension to use as they have had more experience with this. Drilling too deep gets you into a journal oil passage.

The trans input/bell should be typical of the un-cut input shaft IMO. So the input would be 2.120 into the crank.

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very useful, much time later

currently having an issue with my a833 mating up to a small block 318

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E Satterfield said:
I didn’t plan to try and bore the center of the crank to hold a pilot bearing with a hand drill. All I was going to try and do was deepen the existing pocket a little deeper so that not as much material would need to be cut from the shaft. The shaft measures at 3/4” and it seems to me that anything on the unsupported side of the pilot bearing could be the same or any size larger than the the shaft as it’s only providing it room to rotate nothing else. The thought of slightly larger would provide a little room if the hole is not perfectly straight and I highly doubt that it would be
There is 1 so called machine shop in the area that I live in. I would Not trust them to do any kind of work for me from past experience and I don’t plan to remove the engine from the car or the crank.

As far as cutting shafts. I will have this car until I’m dead and if a future owner or generation doesn’t like it that the shaft has been cut then they can purchase a new one like I did. Thanks again for the input
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how did you get on with the install, im doing the same at the moment in New Zealand

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Exactly what Mcodecuda said. Mock it up with all YOUR parts and see what YOU need to do. A gap..?? Mesure and trim + a 1/16” for clearance. Everything rotates with out rubbing leave as is. Any other method is only a guess. Too short you start over with a new input shaft. Too long you do the job twice.Swingn’
 
Does the bellhousing fit up to the transmission ? Looks like you have the overdrive 4 speed which reqires the right bellhousing first.
 
Hello. I was successful at cutting the input shaft on my transmission. Obviously the amount you will need to cut will probably differ some from mine. I’m currently away from home but will return tomorrow and I can measure the amount I removed from my input shaft as the piece is in the drawer of my tool box .

I have put a couple hundred miles on my car since the conversion and all is well.

As others said you will need to get your bellhousing and have it mounted to your engine block before you can ever begin to make any measurements. You can PM me if you like and I will try and provide any info that I can.

Thanks again to everyone who took the time to help me.

Eric.
 
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