Dana 60 with upgraded slant six

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66 dart 4 speed od transmission 225slant 2.92 diff 7 1/4. Plenty of pull and torque in 1st gear, take off is fine up to 30 mph with the 3.09 1st gear. It will squeal the right side 235 60 14 tire to death but The car has no balls from 2nd-4th gears. It's ok but it just lacks. The rpm's are slow to reach 4500. Heavy slow crank? But I think if the diff gear were lower, it would help. And the transmission is just not geared right. I know it's a truck,van transmission but its now a 66 dart transmission and I want this thing to scoot a little bit better.
It's not a higway car. Just a light to light around town car.

Here are some options I was considering.

68 B body 489 8 3/4 2.76 open gear with brakes. $650
It will need shortened. Dr. Diff axles with bearings $305. Housing ends $85 and perches $15. Cut the driveshaft $200. Ujoint $50 and
get it all welded $300-$500? So $1500-$1800. And the 2.76 would need to be changed to a 3.55 $200 and possibly a spool $100 and install kit $100.
$2200 approximate.



I also found a dana 60 already modded for a 70 nova with drum brakes. $500 has 4.10 posi Probably too much gear for my transmission.
It will need shortened. Will need Dr. diff axles $305, housing ends $85, perches $15, driveshaft cut $200, joint $50, welding $500.
$1655 approximate. And if I change the gear to a 3.54 figure another $3-400. So $2000 approximate.


And I found a 68 mustang 8" 2.80 gear with brakes non posi for $150. Supposed to be a drop in. No cutting of the driveshaft. 59 1/4 axle flange to flange.
I think this will need shortened also. So Dr diff axles $305, ends $85( not sure if the 9" housing ends will work) perches $15. Ujoint $50 Welded $500. Gear/install kit/spool $500
$1600 approximate.

And there's a $1000 A body diff for sale on this forum from Colorado plus shipping I"m guessing $300?

But its a 741 with 2.94 open. So I would need another $500 for 3.55 gear and spool plus $200-$500 misc shoes,cylinders,cables,?
$2000-2300 approximate.

I think I read from another member that any way he priced it , was all about the same price. Looks like the Dana is the better build.
 
jpl572103 said:
66 dart 4 speed od transmission 225slant 2.92 diff 7 1/4. Plenty of pull and torque in 1st gear, take off is fine up to 30 mph with the 3.09 1st gear. It will squeal the right side 235 60 14 tire to death but The car has no balls from 2nd-4th gears. It's ok but it just lacks. The rpm's are slow to reach 4500. Heavy slow crank? But I think if the diff gear were lower, it would help. And the transmission is just not geared right. I know it's a truck,van transmission but its now a 66 dart transmission and I want this thing to scoot a little bit better.
It's not a higway car. Just a light to light around town car.
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The OD transmission is a wide ratio trans, think of first gear like a granny gear. The drop from 1-2 is too large for a stock slant six to handle, and by the time you wind up 2nd the motor is just out of steam. It will never feel right until you put a close ratio transmission in it.

Yes, it’s got a long heavy crank, but that is not your issue. The 1 bbl carb, and stock cam are what really makes this combo stink. Adding a 2bbl carb and a cam with more than .480 lift will help, but swapping in a non od 833 will be the most dramatic change.
 
The exhaust is another huge hurdle to overcome. Making mods like 2 barrel or four barrel carburetors will do very little without modifying the exhaust in "some" fashion. This includes at least porting the stock manifold and opening up the outlet, or going straight to headers. So many people fail to do that and then wonder why all of their mods didn't add much. The stock manifold only has a 1 7/8 outlet. That's no good for any kind of performance. The slant 6 responds better to a complete approach, rather than piece mealing it.
 
Absolutely. They came in many dodge d/w 200’s. They are all over marketplace for 200-250 in my area. IMO it’s the only axle that belongs in an A-body.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The exhaust is another huge hurdle to overcome. Making mods like 2 barrel or four barrel carburetors will do very little without modifying the exhaust in "some" fashion. This includes at least porting the stock manifold and opening up the outlet, or going straight to headers. So many people fail to do that and then wonder why all of their mods didn't add much. The stock manifold only has a 1 7/8 outlet. That's no good for any kind of performance. The slant 6 responds better to a complete approach, rather than piece mealing it.
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Dutra duals?
 
I don't see the reason to use such a huge, heavy and expensive axle.
After buying some core, having it narrowed, buying shafts, gears, a Sure Grip and all that you'll still have no pinion snubber.
The Dana weighs almost double of a 7.25 and 80+ lbs more than an 8 1/4". That weight slows the car down, makes it take longer to stop and will not handle as well.
The 8 1/4" axle came in 383 2 barrel B bodies for a few years so it is plenty capable.
They will fit a Duster/Demon/Dart Sport but too wide for almost any other A body.
This is a Dart Sport with a Dakota 8 1/4" axle and stock Rallye wheels:

Dart 5.JPG


Dart 7.JPG
 
All great points. Especially the gentleman who reminded me that a heavier diff requires more stopping power. The car is already limited in that area with the 9" drums up front. And I have to realize that this is a great around town car and to just enjoy what it is. I mean who wouldn't want a 225 slant 2 door with a 4 speed? Still , I will swap out the rear with something. Most likely 1 step up from a 7 1/4.

The car has had work done to it. I believe in 2003. I say this because the S/Warner tach was not working. So I removed it and saw a date stamp of 2003 on it. So I did get the tach working. But , whoever rebuilt the car did a fantastic job. All S/W gauges/ painted dash matches the entire color scheme of the car. Looks brand new.
They even painted under the car. They even painted the wheels. Doors, you name it, its been done. They installed a clifford intake,edelbrock 4b, headers, electric fuel pump, mini starter, 4 speed, the interior is super clean/headiner perfect,etc. I wish I knew the person who did this. Could be someone who is a member of this forum!!
 
Charrlie_S said:
Don't even consider a spool for the street in any rear. A limited slip unit OK, but not a spool.
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Back in the 70s, my drag car builder didn't recommend a spool even in drag cars. I saw a well known pro stock break an axle right at the starting line and took a hard left turn off the side of the track.
My Camaro used a Sure-Grip differential. I once broke the splined end off a Strange axle at the starting line and my car just lurched straight forward a little.

20220104_080814.jpg
 
Good to know. Makes sense. The spool has no give during a catostrophic event. So no spool for me.
 
Ottmundr said:
Dutra duals?
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Those work, although not "my" favorite choice. They are nice though, especially since Aussie Speed bought the rights and actually finishes them.
 
I think a lot of yall are forgetting, or perhaps just DON'T KNOW that Dodge put the slant six in millions of Dodge D500 dump trucks. What rear ends did those have? A BIG two speed. A LOT bigger than a Dana 60. I believe the Dana will be just fine.
 
Im an 8 1/4 fan in an a body because they are cheap and readily available. Perfect fit with no effort.
But the 8.8 is a great option as is any of the dana 44 options used in many many jeeps. Lots of different widths and gear ratios with a plethora of parts available but much lighter and smaller than a Dana 60
 
AJ/FormS said:
Old Dakotas IIRC are 7.25s and AFAIK the guts swap over. They are cone-types easily repaired.
I still have one 7.25 SureGrip kicking around too.From a 67 Barracuda 273 as I recall.
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Not all old Dakotas were 7-1/4. Most around here were 8&1/4. All the way from 87 and up.
 
jos51700 said:
Dude, an 8 1/4 will do everything you want, has a billion parts available, was built since the dawn of time, and isn't so heavy.
Putting a Dana behind anything less than anything with a trans brake or a BB/Hemi is foolish.

ESPECIALLY in a street car. Ditch the unsprung weight and steer clear of more than you need.
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I would agree. Unless there is a higher performance option in the future? The Dana with today's upgraded axles and spool units can handle darn near anything your A-body can throw at it. And even if an over kill for a 225. It will be noticed if sale of car is also in some future scenario.

I believe in over kill. And I would certainly grab an A-body with a Dana before an 8 1/4 - 8 3/4 car. All things being equal.
 
All good information. I too agree the dana would be a selling point. My concern would be the gas tank. I might be able to adjust it.
 
jpl572103 said:
All good information. I too agree the dana would be a selling point. My concern would be the gas tank. I might be able to adjust it.
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If you are installing a dana 60 for resale value keep in mind that the increase in resale value will not cover the cost of building a custom dana 60.
Jeep guys run into this a lot.
 
True. I definitely am trying to minimize the cost. Keep it below 2k what ever I decide.:thumbsup:
 
jpl572103 said:
True. I definitely am trying to minimize the cost. Keep it below 2k what ever I decide.:thumbsup:
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hell I'd keep it under 200. with an A body 8 1/4 housing and a used sure grip center section from a ubiquitous jeep xj 8 1/4 with 3.55's. I've done it a few times fir less than 100 bucks.
 
HankRearden said:
If you are installing a dana 60 for resale value keep in mind that the increase in resale value will not cover the cost of building a custom dana 60.
Jeep guys run into this a lot.
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That's true. On a direct replacement. But if you are having to replace? You can subtract the smaller unit cost that you already had to pay. Thus I believe the Dana would pay some dividends in the end.
 
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