Dang U-bolts!

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mopower440

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Trying to get the nuts of the U-bolts as i am about to install new leaf springs. I broke all the nuts loose but they are tight enough that neither of my electric impacts will take them off..I sure dont want to hand crank them all the way off as they are long..
 

Go for it.
Guess i better not cut them and save them..parts house doesnt have the specific ones for the car, just a million different ones to choose from.Im not sure what thread, pitch, length, this and that they are. I do know mine are the correct ones with the flat part through the top section designed to not crush the axle tube.
 
Havent been able to break them but had enough for today..lol.. Thinking about taking my grinder with a cutting wheel and just cutting them off..Thoughts?
Yeah. That'll work! U-bolts are technically not supposed to be reused anyway. That said, I've always done it IF they come off easily.
 
Used to part cars and saved a lot of them but don't have any anymore. Also, the nuts are peened on 3 sides from the factory to lock them in place. But, they will come off if you clean the threads real good and just keep working at it. And no, I do not know anyone that sells the correct u-bolts. You might try Dr. Diff and see what he has to say about it. He's pretty good at knowing this stuff too.
 
They'll very likely break the u-bolts coming off. When they are that stubborn, that's usually what happens.
Yea I usually speed the process up with a long cheater bar, a slight twist and off they come.
Very rarely are 50 year old U bolts reuseable even if you get them fine threaded nuts off.
 
Tighten the nuts back up, and chase the threads with a die- that'll get fifty years of rust, gunk and undercoating off of them.
Then lube the nuts up real good and run 'em off.
 
Iirc Espo's do not have flat tops, send an email or call.

I found nice new correct flat top ones on ebay years ago.
 
According to who....
Says my experience, first and foremost, but also, see post #10. The factory nuts are peened so that they lock down when torqued. Very similar to how some Exhaust nuts are made. Usually, aftermarket U-bolt nuts are not peened. But the peened nuts almost always distort the threads on the factory bolt when backing off, IF they back off. A lot of times, even the ones you do get off, damage the threads. So unless they come off easily, I'd pitch um in the garbage. They're cheap enough to buy new and not something you want to take chances with.
 
How do you chase the threads on a U bolt
Like I said, tighten the nuts back up- this exposes the majority of the threads. I've seen factory u bolts with a couple inches of exposed threads below the nuts. Run a die on and off the exposed threads. Then spin the nuts off. He's already got them part way off, so if you tighten them back up you'll be able to get the rest cleaned up other than 1 or 2 threads. Not difficult at all.
 
Iirc Espo's do not have flat tops, send an email or call.

I found nice new correct flat top ones on ebay years ago.
This has been debated for decades. The flat and round u-bolts have been used on all makes and models with no rhyme or reason. I've seen original Mopars with each kind. It's not like there's any way in hades they're gonna move anyway, and as long as you're not a caveman and over torque the nuts, you'll never have issues with crushing axle tubes.
 
as long as you're not a caveman and over torque the nuts, you'll never have issues with crushing axle tubes.
Agreed, at least for us non cavemen.

Funny thing, my 62 Dart had them flat tops, and were they ever rusted. Cut them off, why bother, found good inexpensive ones on ebag, done.

I just changed leaf springs on a truck recently, just fighting the nuts on and off to get them off weakens/twists the u-bolts.

In that condition, just replace.
 
I always found that suspension ubolts ( even newer ones) came off easier with a ratchet, or just steady tension round and round (if you have space) as opposed to impact tools.....something about the springyness of the long bolts defeats the impacts effectiveness.
 
Well, i found both types at mancini..the correct ones with the flat 'Gripper' top section, and also Mopar performance branded ones that are just round all the way through..Would you pay an extra 35.00 for the OEM types with the flattened part?
 
Well, i found both types at mancini..the correct ones with the flat 'Gripper' top section, and also Mopar performance branded ones that are just round all the way through..Would you pay an extra 35.00 for the OEM types with the flattened part?
Hey, buy what you want. It's your money. Millions of vehicles came with round u-bolts and you don't see um layin in the ditch because they came loose. Some of the things yall worry about makes me flat out laugh. Both styles are "correct".
 
If you are putting that much pressure on the thread to get them off, I sure wouldn't reuse the U-bolts. Get some good replacements with the flat at the top to avoid distorting the axle tubes. Don't overtorque!!!
 
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