Dangerous?

[Scott's dart]

These are the wires that came off of my ammeter, would it be dangerous to use them to supply power to a fuse panel? I assume the answer is yes and if so, where would I grab power from for this fuse panel? It'll be for supplying power to my fuel pump, line lock and aftermarket gauges and lights.

 

[67Dart273]

I would review the MAD article. If no other reason it has a good simplified diagram, and an overview of problems with the ammeter/ bulkhead circuit.

Catalog

One issue is circuit protection IE no fuse or breaker. "All you have" is the factory fuse link which is NOT adequate many times. Also the bulkhead connector is lame for current capacity and never was heavy duty "enough" for much added accessories. In other words you need to fix/ upgrade what is there.

 

[Tooljunkie]

The power is there. The tabs on the side are your accessory supply circuits. I would not use that setup. Dealing with dead battery would be the next problem.
Those two wires need to be secure and protected from shorting to ground. They are live and flopping in the breeze, bad idea.
Address your problem like the provided wiring diagram and then add your needed circuits.

 

[RedFish]

You don't want to add a lot of load to the OEM wiring. It was barely adequate for the OEM duty.
If you want that fuse panel hot at all times as shown, pull a separate supply line from your starter relay to it. With inline protection out there at the starter relay, a maxi fuse, a fusible link, something.
If you want that fuse panel hot only at switch on, same as above but, the supply line would go through a relay to get to the fuse panel. Any switched circuit, beyond your ignition switch will signal/close the relay, power up the fuse panel.
Typical Bosch relays are rated at 30 amps which may be sufficient where high amp accessories like electric fans are on separate circuits and their own relays. In those cases your added fuse panel is simply serving the 10 amp signal lines to those relays. Every one of those relays would get a root source similar to this fuse panel.
All the same as what we find in newer vehicles, lots of small wires, low loads inside the cab. The big wires, high loads outside the cab.

 

[cudajim]

You can use that fuse block but mount it in the engine compartment close to the battery, not under the dash. Pull main power from the big terminal on the starter relay or directly from the battery. You will also want to use fuses rated for the individual current loads you want to run.

 

[RedFish]

You can use that fuse block but mount it in the engine compartment close to the battery, not under the dash. Pull main power from the big terminal on the starter relay or directly from the battery. You will also want to use fuses rated for the individual current loads you want to run.

I think that fuse box could be installed under the dash somewhere. It aint a heck of a lot different from OEM. It really should have some sort of cover, at that positive post terminal if nothing more.

 

[JoeSBP]

For the fuel pump, use the keyed accessory circuit to trigger a dedicated relay. For the gauges, pull from the factory circuit for the gauges.