Dart Suddenly Shut Off & Won't Start

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domdart

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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I started my 68 Dart this morning and backed it out of the garage. While pulling it forward to the side of the driveway it just shut off. Now, when I turn the key there is nothing. Tomorrow I will get out my tester and my service manual and try to figure it out. Any advice on where to start will be greatly appreciated. Thanks FABO.
 
Smart guys will first advise to check all of the negative grounds. The core support, firewall and electronic control module if you have electronic ignition.
Next, the fusible link wire just off the bulkhead wiring on the engine side of the firewall.
The fusible link burns out when something else triggers it to do so. An alternator that is overcharging can do that.
 
From your post I'm assuming that the engine is not turning over.

Clean the battery terminals and the battery posts.

Check and clean connections at starter solenoid and starter relay.

Check battery voltage.
 
Try the headlights and/or the horn. They are on different circuits, not off the ignition switch. If they work, that almost eliminates the battery connections.
Then try the heater, which does come thru the Ignition switch.
If it blows, this points to the NSS, so like said, try neutral, and with the key in crank-position, just wiggle the shifter lever a lil. If it cranks, re-align your shift mechanism.
If it won't crank for nothing, but the heater blows, then you will need to prove the starter relay is functioning.
HOWEVER,
In your case Having also died while moving, the first thing I would check is the bulkhead connector, and/or the Fusible link. Well, actually first the Fusible-link, then the connector. That big fat wire has a tendency to develop a high-resistance, which then makes heat, which then melts the plastic all around it, and finally the the connector just stops passing juice. I think it's either Red or Black, or maybe red going in and black coming out; I forget, but it's the only FAT wire in there, 10 gauge I thnk.
If the Fusible link has blown, yur gonna have to figure out why, before you replace it with another, like-sized link, else it will just blow again. If the headlights were on when it blew, check that circuit. If the headlights were off but you were stepping on the brakes, check that circuit. It should have blown the fuse, but sometimes water gets into the back of the fuse-box, and then, anything can happen.
 
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It was the positive battery terminal. I would have never checked that. I would have been drawing lines to follow my service manual diagrams and disconnecting the bulkheads looking for melted connections. Thanks FABO.
 
It was the positive battery terminal. I would have never checked that. I would have been drawing lines to follow my service manual diagrams and disconnecting the bulkheads looking for melted connections. Thanks FABO.
Glad you found your problem.

I've had this happen to me numerous times in my lifetime.

I learned a good lesson dealing with this..

If everything was working fine before the car was stored and this happens, look for the easy solution first.
 
It was the positive battery terminal. I would have never checked that. I would have been drawing lines to follow my service manual diagrams and disconnecting the bulkheads looking for melted connections. Thanks FABO.

Probably 90% of my " no start" service calls were Dead battery or "bad terminal" connections .
 
Battery terminals will be a click followed by nothing no dome light etc OR the dome light will slowly come back dim etc. The general traditional indicator is a "click" at the terminal or starter, it will be from under hood, and nothing no dash no radio no headlights. Sometimes the dome light comes back slowly but real dim. To check turn on headlights open hood wiggle terminals, headlights will come on..
 
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Battery terminals will be a click followed by nothing no dome light etc OR the dome light will slowly come back dim etc. The general traditional indicator is a "click" at the terminal or starter, it will be from under hood, and nothing no dash no radio no headlights. Sometimes the dome light comes back slowly but real dim. To check turn on headlights open hood wiggle terminals, headlights will come on..
Sorry, I have to disagree with your suggestion to "wiggle " the terminals.

When you do this , you cause arcing and current shock to the other components of the car's electrical systems. Now, instead of one issue, you can create others such as blown stereos, gauges, ECU's etc...

Simple easy way.

Do it right.

Remove the terminals, clean them and the battery posts and re-install them tightened properly. Coating them with a dielectric grease doesn't hurt either.
 
Sorry, I have to disagree with your suggestion to "wiggle " the terminals.

When you do this , you cause arcing and current shock to the other components of the car's electrical systems. Now, instead of one issue, you can create others such as blown stereos, gauges, ECU's etc...

Simple easy way.

Do it right.

Remove the terminals, clean them and the battery posts and re-install them tightened properly. Coating them with a dielectric grease doesn't hurt either.
I was referring to the troubleshoot not the repair ...thanks for the two cent auto repair lesson on battery terminal service... :lol: :thumbsup:
 
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I was referring to the troubleshoot not the repair ...thanks for the two cent auto repair lesson on battery terminal service... :lol: :thumbsup:
Didn't mean to "stir the pot" LOL !

Its just that I've gotten burned doing exactly as described. Fried my new in-dash tach by leaving the positive battery terminal loose and causing arcing when I moved it on the battery post.
 
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